Galleyette: It's far from finished, but it is fully operational..running water and the ability to get rid of same. Because of the limited space below the vanity we chose this sink - somewhat of a cross between a vessel-style and a counter level basin. The extra inches above the top made for an easier fit underneath. Here you get a good idea of the unique construction of this dresser that made for an easier installation. Notice the space where the p-trap is located...unused space behind the drawers. You can also see - right under the sink drain - a rail on either side for the smaller upper drawers. Another unused interior space, we routed supply lines here. Easy access for drain. Another interior view. bottom of basin is visible between two upper drawers. This scrollwork sits on a maple veneer 5" spacer between the two drawer fronts. Nice detail on the outside - you can see how convenient this is when you compare to location of drain fittings. Still needs a bit of refinishing work, but the whole idea is it looks well loved! We couldn't believe how well it turned out. Steve

IPC states no direct connections to any device that provides sterile goods (utensils) for the use of human consumption be directly tied to any source that contains contaminates. This code is laxed in some states but the core reason for Air Gaps stands unmatched in protection of the reversal of contaminates. High looping does not protect the reversal of flow; it's a shortcut allowed but does not fully protect. The first attempt with a plunger to unclog a kitchen sink drain will push that sewage into the dishwasher. Granite installers are notorious for avoiding drilling holes for them. They just say "high loop it" and it will be okay. Any plumber who respects their license should know to think outside the code book when this type of situation is presented when you replace a dishwasher or garbage disposal. You take your reputation and license into risk when you "high loop it" in an area that enforces that code regarding Air Gaps. As long as there is a connection to the waste system BELOW the flood rim level of the fixture it serves, it is susceptible to not protect the device used in producing sterile goods. The situation is not uncommon; clog kitchen sink with wastewater in the dishwasher is fairly common in plumbing forums across the www.

@davidro1, I'm not concerned with the pop-up mechanism at all. I was concerned with the pop up housing being level with the drain line. I was worried that if water stayed in the pop up housing, that the housing might be prone to leaks (at the point where the ball and rod go into the drain pipe). I was also concerned with any code issues. I remember reading somewhere that there is a maximum allowable distance the p-trap can rise from the low point to the drain line. I assumed that reversing the j-bend would result in too much of a height difference to be code compliant (I'm still assuming this, since nobody has chimed in on this issue). However, more than the legality of it all, I really just wanted to know what bad consequences might happen as a result of reversing a j-bend. @jimsonburg, Thanks for the SPAM. Not. @homebound, I was concerned about the connections. The waste arm has the flared tip, but it doesn't seem so different from the plastic washer thing that goes in the tailpiece. I've went ahead and reversed the j-trap, and everything fits fine and feels really solid. I filled up the sink, drained it all at once, and there are no leaks. I've even opened up the pop up housing (where the ball goes in) and to my surprise, there is no standing water in there (the water line sits just below that). I'll keep an eye on it to make sure nothing leaks. If it does, I'm sure we'll notice it right away, before there's any major damage. Aside from a few bottles of cleaning supplies, we don't really use the cabinet under the sink, so maybe I'll just leave an old aluminum lasagna pan down there. At least that way, it'll catch any leakage should any occur, and it will alert me to any leakage by amplifying the sound of any drips.

If the washer waste water dumps into the utility sink then I would replace the utility sink and p trap first.