The health department didn't mention plant uptake of lead, but I did run across some information on it while I was researching our problem. Apparently, many of the "urban garden" projects of the 70's and 80's produced lead poisoned produce. Removing the soil seems to be the only solution. Those gardens were more affected by leaded gasoline exhaust than by paint. My problem with the over the counter tests is that they seem to test everything positive-- The kind I am talking about direct you to nick the paint (to expose all layers) and then rub with a little testing stick. Any red discoloration supposedly indicates lead. Everything (even my parents white painted circa 1990 drywall!) turned the stick red. The Health department brought out a hand held device that tests multiple layers on a sliding scale (1-9). They tested our dishes, walls, trim, soil and took dust samples back to a lab for testing. If you have tiny children and are actively remodeling, yearly testing probably isn't enough. Lead poisoning can occur very quickly. And, once in the body, it is retained for a long time. We were directed, once our daughter was diagnosed, to give her daily iron and calcium supplements-- lead interfers witht the absorption of these minerals by the body. Knowing what I know now, I would start those supplements before beginning any remodeling/repainting, and keep the areas where work is being done completely free of children (parents should change and shower prior to contact). Now, all of that being said-- Our daughter appears to be a perfectly normal almost 7 year old today. Her height is at the 60%, weight at the 50% and she is performing on grade level (when her lead levers were highest, 26 ppb, she fell to 15% for height/weight and was very slightly speech delayed). Her brother and sister are both at the 95% for height and are both highly gifted. How much, if any, of this difference is normal variation and how much is lead affect? We will never know.

It seems really thick and goopy and I think you have to be a very seasoned painter and work quickly IMO. I just scraped the drips off and I am going to allow it to dry, go get lunch and sand it eben though there is this warning about sanding and cancer on the side. Nice. I am usually a decent painter and just cut in my FR with no issues at all same brush etc, but SW duration paint. I am not blaming the paint maybe just my upset that my line was not coming over so clean and I think I had a bit too much paint on the brush. I also JUST founf out DH used my super favorite brush that I use to cut in last night to paint and trim in the ceiling and he abuses the brush. SO Ia m going to go get another and attempt to fix this.

I just finished doing a whole series of tests on some trim that was painted with oil and needed re-painting. Planning on painting cabinets down the road, so using trim to play. I sanded some down to bare wood, scuffed some and tried several different primers and then tested a couple of different top coats. Sanding down to bare wood got rid of the oil, but caused other issues - the wood grain was showing through, had to use a sandable primer and even used a thinned wood putty to get to a nice smooth surface. I do not recommend doing this. Using a light scuff with out a good primer and BM Advance paint didn't pass the fingernail test - it peeled. Same result using a water based primer. Zinnser 123 is the oil based primer I tested and it worked well. It passed the fingernail test, but I got a thinner, more even coat with Zinnser Bin shellac based primer. Top Coats that I tried were Benjamin Moore Advance ($55.00/gallon), Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel ($95.00/gallon - on sale for $57.00/gallon) and C2 Cabinet and Door ($92.00/gallon) all in a satin finish. I had read a lot of good reviews and had recommendations from the local Ace Hardware to use BM Advance. I liked the BM Advance, but it was not as smooth as I was attempting to get - still had some brush strokes and I also had some issues with air bubbles that didn't burst and left some unsightly poc marks. They were too small to see on baseboards, but not something I would want on kitchen cabinet doors. I decided to try both Sherwin Williams and C2. I have had great experience with C2 on walls, had not tried their Trim and Cabinet Paint. I asked the SW representative which paint was their best for Trim and they advised me to get the Emerald. I ended up using the SW Emerald, but it was less glossy than either BM Advance and C2. I prefer the other gloss levels, but the coat was smooth and self leveled perfectly. The only issue and reason I did not use C2 for the trim in this room is that the closest C2 store is over 2 hours away and I need a custom color match, so I can't just order online. The color I ordered online was the closest match from their color line, but it was grayer than what I wanted. I did absolutely love the paint. Again, very smooth, beautifully leveled surface. When I get a free day I will make the 2 hour drive and cross my fingers that they can match the color I want. I also ordered a can of Poly Whey paint additive to test with the C2 Paint. It is supposed to add even more durability/hardness to the paint. (Recommended when using C2 door and cabinet in high traffic areas as a floor paint. https://vermontnaturalcoatings.com/product/paintplus-paint-additive-with-polywhey/ Plan on testing these on the closet doors and will see what happens.

My neighbor's reply to a potential buyer concerned that lead paint was used somewhere, sometime in her 1950's house: "Probably, but it didn't stop our son and daughter from receiving full cost scholarships to Stanford after living here for 18 years." Who lets her children eat paint? I WOULD be concerned about the aged lead water piping throughout older cities, delivering poison to every home.