I don’t like the way they look. Maybe nothing but the way the leaves are curling and the spots not being on the new leaf makes me think there’s a problem. I’m thinking spider mites or maybe cold damage. There are also Phalaenopsis mites which are similar to spider mites, they are known to attack older leaves and leave new growth alone. If it is cold damage, it could have happened before the new leaf started growing which is why it’s not affected. I would check with the owner a get some history. Maybe it was outdoors and it got too cold or maybe they have other plants with similar markings

One of the various fungal agents collectively known as maple anthracnose. It is generally not a serious issue, more cosmetic than actually harmful......and it can fluctuate from year to year with weather conditions. And once you see visible signs of the problem, it is too late to treat anyway. But it is best to rake up and destroy or fully compost all the leaves in fall. Don't just use them as is as a mulch as the fungal spores can winter over.

Hi there! I'm new to the forum and have a question about my 8 month old white bird of paradise that sits directly in front of a west-facing window. I water when the top two inches of soil are dry and use a moisture meter to verify. I also mist two to three times per week. Recently I discovered a spider mite infestation on several leaves. I removed them with a soapy water solution and followed up with two applications of horticultural oil across 7 days. No signs of them since! I also repotted the plant because there was a lot of mold growing on top of the soil and most of the advice I found suggested I repot with new soil. Now, about a week after repotting, I've discovered that one of the larger leaves has a patch of black discoloration that's been growing in size day by day. The same leaf in the area of black spots has turned slightly yellow. So far it's just contained to this one leaf. From what I've found it may be a fungal or bacterial infection, but there isn't much information directly about birds of paradise. I should note that there's also some yellow and brown streaks across several leaves that seem to have appeared at the same time as the spider mite problem. I've attached photos below to help visualize. I appreciate any advice on what could be going on here and any solutions that might mitigate it. Thanks in advance!

Given the chlorotic appearance of the leaves, I'd say that fertilizer is a very appropriate response. The plant was probably delivered to its POS (point of sale) in spring, and hasn't been fertilized since. That, and the fact that it's seriously rootbound would account for the foliage closest to the trunk being shed. For Hibiscus, a random choice of fertilizer is not appropriate, and you shouldn't even consider using any of the "bloom booster" fertilizers for containerized plants, especially Hibiscus. They all supply much too much phosphorous, and it just so happens that hibiscus likes very little phosphorous compared to the nitrogen supplied. The proper pattern for Hibiscus fertilizers should be a medium amount of nitrogen, a small amount of phosphorous, and a large amount of potassium (K). The NPK numbers should be medium: small: large. If you understand the difference between a fertilizer's NPK %s and its RATIO, a 3:1:5 ratio is about right. If you choose Foliage-Pro 9-3-6, and add an equal measure of ProTeKt 0-0-3 to the fertilizer solution, you're good to go ...... and the FP 9-3-6 can be used as is for all your other plants. If you winter over the tree, it works best to keep it on the dry side in a cool dark corner of the basement, providing only enough water to prevent the roots from drying out, rather than trying to keep it growing until it uses all of its reserve energy and has nothing left when repot time comes every spring. They should be repotted every spring as their root systems are very aggressive. Repotting is much more involved than potting up - ask if interested in knowing the difference (if you don't already know. The plant LOVES heat and sun, so start reacclimating it to full sun asap. It's likely you won't fix the bud blast issue until you next repot and get the plant on an appropriate fertilizer. Bud Blast What's occurring with the flower buds is called 'bud blast', which can be broadly described as the aborting of buds before or soon after opening. Deficiencies of the immobile nutrients are a common cause. Major changes in the amount of light and water the plant is acclimated to, but over or under-watering can also be causal. Radical temperature, cold air from air conditioners or warm air from heat sources can either cause buds to be aborted, and night to day temperature changes can cause condensation within the bud sheath, which can cause the bud to rot. Chemicals/fumes from gas/diesel engines or ethylene gas from any source can cause bud blast. Aphids and thrips can feed on buds or cause infections that cause them to abort. Humidity too low or plants too close to supplemental lighting are often issues, as is chemical damage related to EC/TDS (salt levels). And sometimes, often infuriatingly, the issue is often idiopathic or remains obscure. I think directing your prophylactic efforts toward maintaining those cultural practices the plant approves of, particularly soil moisture levels, temperature, and fertility, should be followed. Make sure the fertilizer you're using includes all nutrients essential to normal growth. If you have any suspicions that water/condensation in buds might be an issue, first, don't mist or spray the foliage with water. After the bud erupts, you can try carefully peeling back the bud sheath, which will help prevent water or condensation from causing rot issues. If you find aphids/thrips, treat appropriately. I can't be more specific w/o seeing the plant. Often, though, in cases like this and given a list of potentialities, the grower is able to eliminate a goodly number of possibilities and concentrate on the more likely of the causes. Al