Technically yes. You'd need to figure out the project cost though

air tight trim is a joke in my opinion.I base this on having tested for air leakage with a blower door while sealing these lights & trims. the foam rubber gasket does little to stop the air leakage from exiting the trim. the best way I've found is to use the hardcast 1402 mastic tape to seal housing to the sheetrock. similar to how supply box is sealed in pic of previous posting. tape goes into edge of housing and overlaps to sheetrock. allow 1'2" overlap as trim will cover the tape. this with the ICAT recessed light will stop as much of the air leakage as possible. there will still be a small amount of leakage, but not enough to be of concern. note this when you look at the recessed lights again: Halo's insulation contact air tight lights have two things that identify them. no holes in housing and a orange sticker inside the can that says it is air tight. orange sticker, not red. the red sticker says air tight when used with the following trim kits. deceptive lableling IMO. reading the small print inside IC cans the trim kits include, insert/baffle to fit inside the can to address holes in housing (@$14 each) and air tight trim kit, not sure of cost. as the insert/baffle would be needed at every recessed light, buying ICAT makes better economical sense. installing the baffles is a pita. so add labor for that to cost. buy ICAT, use mastic tape in place of 'air tight' trim. if you are putting IC cans outside under porches patio, unconditioned space this is what happens. as the install of recessed lights is ongoing, the electrician mixes up the boxes. some inside are ICAT, some IC. same outside. make it easy on everyone and buy all ICAT. wasps like IC, but not so much ICAT, less air movement. the cost per contractor case between the two is minimal when you compare to retrofitting each IC to air tight. best of luck.

Morning all... I did a complete remodel of kitchen/living and put in 6" Recessed lights, I didn't go retro-fit, so sticking to good old screw ins. Question is twofold - 1) I'm looking for as much of a seemless fit as possible, I tried a PAR30 but didn't seem to work, I'm guess PR38 would be a better fit, thoughts? Any specifics on trim kits? 2) What would create a better spread of light for kitchen living dining open concept BR or PAR bulbs? 3) What brand bulb are recommended, and does CRI really matter 82 v 90? There are 100s out there and I know there has to be a quality vs non-quality when I look at price differences. Thanks!

You have to exert more force. Get your fingertips under opposite edges of the trim and pull down evenly and firmly. It's held in with strong spring clips. Once it comes out several inches, you will be able to unclip the pair of spring clips and deal with the bulb.