Too late to help now but maybe someone else will benefit. I gel stained my Pella fiberglass entry door 6.5 years ago and it looked great! Used Minwax gel stain and their spar varnish, as directed by Pella. However, it did not stand up to weather at all. It chipped and had to be varnished again every 6 months. This Spring it chipped all the way through to the fiberglass and pulled stain with it! Believe me, I did everything properly. My door faces south east and has no roof. But a neighbor whose fiberglass door faces north had the same trouble - he used the same products as I. My neighbor got disgusted and stripped his down to fiberglass and restained it with Sikkens products 3 years ago. No trouble since. Sikkens makes a Door and Window stain that does not require varnish over top. Fortunately for me, just before I started stripping about 36 layers of varnish off my door, it delaminated! Pella brought me a new unfinished slab (under warranty) and I'm using Sikkens to stain it. I've been told the varnish is the trouble. It's like putting a sheet of glass against the door, trapping the heat. Plus it isn't flexible enough to expand and contract. If I put up a storm door to protect it, the problem would've been worse due to trapped heat. Sikkens is specifically made for fiberglass doors. I don't have any vested interests in the company but thought I'd try to help the next guy... Here is a link that might be useful: Sikkens Door and Window stain

My siding is well underway and looks very nice on the front of the house. I still need to post a pic later this week. When I drove up to the house my first thought was stain that front door and jambs. The siding color, and trim color really work well together now and I think that a stained front door would look fantastic. We also have a beadboard front porch ceiling that I wasn't sure if I should stain or paint white but I think I want to stain it to match my door. My Hardie Shingled Siding started to go up yesterday on my peaks and it's so cute. So glad I added this feature since stone was not an option for me at this point. I will post a photo later this week, the siding guys took a couple days off so I need to wait until they finish.

The directions for Therma Tru say that the doors should not be sanded, but I believe this refers to sanding the raw fiberglass skin, not really the finished door. If you sand the raw fiberglass you can either reduce the profile of the grain pattern or you can scratch the fiberglass, both of which may show up when you stain the door. You would need to sand pretty hard to do this though. Lightly sanding and sanding the finish that is already on the door should be fine and this is something you need to do for sure if you are painting over a stained finish.

You don't have to use "power" to wash a brick house. A spray of water with something like Jomax will not harm the brick or the mortar and will remove the surface grime. You can scrub the individual bricks with watered down muriatic acid to remove the paint that is on them but do this by hand and only on those bricks. I have BM Linem on the trim in our library and the undertone is decidedly yellow, which sounds as though it would go nicely with the Rockport Grey with brown undertones. However, the blue/black would be of concern and you might consider a very very dark brown (almost black) instead. Agree with everybody else about painting the garage door the siding color. However, that garage door is very "ageing modern" looking and I would think to replace it at some point with a more traditional looking carriage door. Finally, Would not use a different white trim with the shingles when you use Linen elsewhere/ on the front. Your house might end up looking like separate buildings depending upon what side one views. Love your home, especially the entrance! Please post your changes as they're made!