You do not need to get permits from the LPC for rerouting a gas line . . . unless the reroute somehow alters the visible, exterior facade of the building. Not. What you need for the reroute, though, is a permit from DOB (Department of Buildings). And, yes, rerouting will be somewhat of a big deal for you since you will likely need to do a gas shut-off to the whole building, not just your unit. And, yes, you'll probably need board approval and will probably piss off your some of your neighbors for a temporary gas shut-off, to be sure. Still, what are you going to do? Return the stove? Not complete your kitchen reno? Double NOT! Pissed off co-op boards and co-op neighbors or not, there is a reasonable answer to your problem. And a really experienced, very competent, licensed master plumber knows exactly what to do. Yet, it sounds like you are getting into a tizzy over this before having your plumber weigh in with a proposed solution. What does your plumber say? And, is he licensed? If not, now is the time to get some competitive bids (from licensed plumbers) for this problem. Not only will you get some "expert" feedback on your problem, but also, you will also have a much better sense of just how expensive the fix really is. Lotsa hugs and good luck!

You may not even need to get special, extra approval from your co-op board, as long as a licensed plumber does it. Personally, I wouldn't bring it up to them. Just do it. It's totally, totally safe. (How did it get up to your floor in the first place, right? Through the walls, natch!)

If you are open to making some structural changes then you have more options and it may be worth the extra effort and expense. What is on that living room wall? What is your entry like? Will you lose function in the living space if you alter the wall as shown? Is it a load bearing wall? Do you have fine millwork on that opening? Is it likely that there are things in that wall there? HVAC or pipes? Are you on a slab? Basement? Do you have an established budget for the project? Would you be open to moving the range to the short part if the L? Could you vent up and then out? Are you open to not having the sink in front of a window? what do you need and want most. Prep space? Storage? Better sight lines to the living area? Do you want the kitchen more open to the entry and living room? i would like to see a spot for the mw and as much cook gear and food storage as possible in the kitchen. Fine dish storage, serveware, barware etc is great in a dining room. That back wall could accommodate shallow pantries if you opted not to do an island, and you wanted to keep the entry as is. I agree with your island math. I forgot the dining room wall was 50" deep. You could have an access point be 36" wide there, but I would not choose a 36" work aisle. Could you shorten that wall? If you call the cabinet guy tomorrow and ask him to put a hold on the job because you might add to the kitchen he should accomodate you. For me moving the frig to the back wall, and changing the opening, makes sense only if I could get much better prep-counter space. Let me know what you are open to shuffling around.

bry911--your insurance company and mortgage companies would beg to differ. And you'll be begging them in court if anything goes wrong. Mortgages and insurance in condo/co-op type buildings are specified to certain wall surfaces. There are people who work for those companies whose job it is to write and check those things. I have a friend who did that. I have done the entire primer on insurance policies before and I simply don't want to rehash it now. For some reason I did an entire thread over HO3, HO5 and HO6 policies. What is covered and what can be denied. Can you present some reasonable grounds for an HO6 policy to deny a claim based on a two inch notch in the drywall? Please provide some evidence of that happening, because this is something I have looked at several times and I can't find any instance of an insurance company prevailing when denying because of a non-conforming work that was an indirect factor in the damage. Most states (probably every state) will have insurance regulations that specifically prevent this. Let's also not forget that most (really all) HO6 policies specifically protect you from being sued for your own negligence? So the entire assertion is beyond ridiculous. For them to deny your damage they would have to demonstrate that the notch caused the damage. In the end, they are not going to do anything different because you notched your drywall. If they are looking for an excuse to deny your claim they are going to find one and hold to it until someone makes them pay. Finally, if you are actually worried about the wall assembly squirt a little great stuff fireblock in it and be done with it. ----- ETA: Just to be clear (and we are speaking generally because each case is a bit nuanced), insurance has some small leeway to decline to reimburse you for your negligence. However, there are many caveats with this. First, negligence is more than doing something wrong, it is doing something that is unreasonably wrong. I feel confident that I would prevail when the insurance company claimed that making a 4" x 1" notch in drywall to get a range in is not reasonable. I feel confident that I can find thousands of exhibits to prove this is done a lot, and that is all you would really need to do to defeat a negligence claim. Next, in reality that negligence must border on intentional. The classic example given is a water pipe leak that the homeowner lets happen for a week before calling someone to stop it. The biggest reason that homeowner claims get denied is not negligence it is indifference. Written into your policy there is a demand that you act to mitigate your insurance company's liability. You must take reasonable action to stop damage from worsening. Furthermore, the severe negligence must be the proximate cause of your damages rather than an indirect factor. If that were the case insurance would never pay out they would just find something that you did wrong that made the situation worse. For example, you probably have chemicals stored improperly in your home, and in case of a fire those improperly stored chemicals might act as accelerants, and so insurance could walk into practically every home and deny the claim based on that fact. So to prevent this most states (I would presume every state) has rules against using secondary items to deny claims. Finally, insurance would still reimburse your mortgage company if they denied claims on personal property for reimbursement so throwing the mortgage company in was just silly. I could just keep on going, but the point being there are lots of scary stories about insurance but the reality is that insurance is a highly regulated industry and once you have some real insight into the industry you would be surprised how many of those big bad wolf stories are misconceptions.