Succulover, do not apologize to me. If I felt I needed to apologize for every time I had a wrong notion, I would have used up all the ink in cyberspace. The internet would not be possible. I have so many wrong IDs that RoRo's eyes are permanently stuck in a roll, as in she probably rolls her eyes when she reads my mad-stab attempts at identification. brewerbonsai, sometimes the larger plants do not root from cuttings. I have found that plants like Notocactus root much easier than Espostoas, Oreocereus and others. Old Mammillarias might not, but the same species somewhat younger do. If the cutting has gotten hard (time to stick a pin in it?), and no roots are evident, then re-rooting is unlikely. Sometimes rooting waits until spring, so if the plant is still soft, there is hope.

So MinM- what kind of Hoya did you get? For $20 at Walmart, must have been a really big one or a not too common one. Do you have a pic? Once you get the Hoya bug, you won't hesitate to buy a Hoya when you see one. I can't pass one up unless I already have it - well, except for tsangii (or DS-70, as it's now called, I guess...) I've got three of them now... I must be enthralled with it to have bought 3 of them!! So show us your Hoya baby when you get a chance. Denise in Omaha

Letting it callous is good. If you know which way is up for the cutting you can plant it standing up, it may need some support to stay upright until its roots grow. Don't water it until the roots are present. You can check by gently touching the plant and checking its stability. Once stable, you can begin watering.

PICTURES OF MY ROOTING ON JAN 30, INDOOR ZONE 5A, 2 1/2 months of rooting: Zippered bed-sheet pouches won over pop-bottle: more sunlight. Below is a very wimpy rooting with a LARGE pop-bottle on top: What I learned from my 1st-time rooting indoor, in zone 5a: Cheryl Netter, the originator of "baggie method" lives in a SUNNY zone 5a Colorado, with 247 to 285 days of sunshine versus my Chicagoland with 191 sunny days (mostly partial sun). My mother-in-law lives in Colorado Springs, and at high altitude, the sun is much more intense. Sun is needed to zap mold. STABLE environment is the key to success rooting. When I squirted water on the cuttings, it drop leaves immediately. Cuttings drop leaves with excessive moisture. I should had used my alkaline tap water (pH 9) plus hydrogen peroxide to prevent mold & black canker. I used rain water, which is perfect pH for mold to grow. The addition of my magnesium-rich clay on top helped with photosynthesis in the weak-sun indoor-zone 5a. After I topped with magnesium, leaves became darker green. After 2 1/2 months, baggie via zippered-bed-sheets WON over pop-bottle. Baggie has a larger area of soil for evaporation of moisture. Plus Baggie allows more sun & air to prevent mold. All my rootings under pop-bottle failed. They sprout green leaves, but the minute I take the pop-bottle off, leaves drop. My sister in WARM California had the same experience. One site said to take the pop-bottle off EVERY NIGHT, which makes sense since there's zero light at night, thus encourage mold & black canker. But it's a nuisance to take pop-bottle off everynight. Pouring water down the stem of cuttings is THE BEST WAY TO KILL THEM. Cuttings rot easily if the medium is acidic & wet.