Scott, I can't understand why after all this time you automatically suggest Surround AND bagging for the northeast. As I've explained here many times, and you apparently can't believe, in the northeast if you protect the trees for the 3 or 4 weeks following petal fall of latest blooming apples it is quite likely that bagging or subsequent sprays will be unnecessary. The orchards I manage cover a fairly wide swath of territory and direct fruit pest insects haven't been an issue for me after the above mentioned time in my part of the northeast. I think it a reasonable assumption that as you go further north there will be less pressure rather than more. Apple fly maggot is the only big question mark, in my opinion, as to whether further protection will be necessary. That and indirect pests like JB's which can't be bagged out. The one exception I've had in my own orchard and not the ones I manage is later plum curculio damage on Euro plums, but out of all the trees I manage I consider this an aberration. She, on pest issues, you should know that the closer the advice comes from your region the more likely the relevancy. I manage orchards from coastal Greenwich up to Canaan CT and from Kingston down to Ossining NY and areas in between.

thanks for the info Ken and bunkers. The top of my Vanderwolf is all green, in fact most of it is. Thanks very much "ken_adrian for the link! I've never seen so much as a brown needle on the Vanderwolf so it's shocking to see bright yellow all-of-a-sudden. The yellow needles do match my gingko leaves though ;-)

Your paw paws will need shade but the others will be fine. Some people paint the trunk with white latex paint and water to protect against sunburn you could do that for your other trees

Hi ruth_mi, I propagated mine only in warm seasons. In summer, normally I just add moist garden soil (mixed with natural compost soil if you can) in a transparent plastic pot with drains. The cutting must be 4 to 6 inches long, which is usually sufficient then slice off the bottom of the cutting on an angle. Longer cuttings sometimes dry out when placed deep inside the soil. Now poked 2 inches deep inside the soil, the soil should be slightly moist but not wet. I have water mine only the first 2 days. I placed them indoor near the window for indirect sunlight. If you don't have a warm season, you can simply put a heating pad. It'll usually root well in 3 months. Before transplanting outside in direct sunlight, make sure you have many dark colored leaves no young ones. This is a proof that you have strong roots. Also water 3 times daily for the first 2 weeks after transplanting, this will prevent shock (remember this is not overwatering since the roots will get thirsty and will need water for energy!) Here it's my first experiment and turned out surprisingly excellent. I have accidentally broken a branch from my own Mulberry tree, I just slice off the bit to an angle shaped and poked it directly into my garden soil in a shade area. After 2 months I noticed many leaves and I can also feel the roots in the soil. No need to transplant, it's in a very nice area ❤️ (the 2 attached photos)