My only experience is with Loba products, so I won't comment much on the Bona except to say that if you have read reviews of any product yellowing over time, then I would say no, there is nothing you can add to prevent that. Be very cautious of any product containing oil, as it will yellow in time, and even some products claiming to be "waterborne" can dry down to an oil base, so read up on each product before committing. In terms of the Loba 2K Invisible Protect AT (which stands for "Advanced Technology" versus Loba's non-AT version of the same product which is still sold, so make sure you get the AT as it is more durable), the company does claim that it can be used alone to help create a natural finish that is a little lighter than other products in the lineup, but I have followed the stories of people here at Houzz who have tried to use it alone in that manner, and it generally has not worked well. In one case, someone even had to sand down a first coat of 2K Invisible AT and start over using Loba's WS EasyPrime first. The WS EasyPrime will not only prevent side bonding of the wood which could be an issue for you, but it will also help that first layer of 2K Invisible AT to go on much more smoothly. Knowing what I know about how Loba products work, I would never personally recommend anyone using the waterborne products without the WS EastPrime underneath. Is it going to darken your wood? Yes, faintly, but the wood itself is going to darken as it ages over time, and that is your REAL problem more so than which brand of finish you use. Oak, including white oak, will turn amber as it ages, and it will never be the same as it when it was first sanded and installed, regardless of coating type. If you want a lighter look permanently, you need to use a bleaching product or a whitewash product before you even start putting a top coat on to help maintain that lighter color. Another issue with any Loba product is that it has powerful self-leveling compounds which can induce dripping on the vertical stairwell risers. You need to talk to whomever your coating application serviceperson is and make certain that they have experience working with stairways with these flooring products to prevent dripping and other issues. The "2K" in the Invisible Protect AT means it is catalyzed using two parts combined right before applying. Loba claims a 10-minute working window for that catalyzed coating before it starts to set up, but I found it to be more like a 5-minute window once you lay it on, so if your provider is not familiar with working with 2K products, you could end up with a huge mess if they keep trying to go back and work that product. You have to touch it twice and move on--roll it once against the grain, then roll it with the grain and move on. For larger areas like floors, a 2K product ideally requires 2 people to keep the job moving before the edges start curing. Some contractors will be accustomed to using flooring coatings with a squeegee, t-bar type of implement to move it around, and that's just not the best approach with Loba's water-based products. You preferably need to use their specified roller to get the proper coverage. On a stairwell you could probably do some brush work, but you need a really super soft brush like a Purdy Extra Soft to avoid leaving brush marks. You can message me through my profile, and I'd be happy to talk with you in person more about your situation. I would also advise against going with the super-matte finishes. Everyone seems to want that these days, but I can tell you that a bit of sheen or even gloss is going to hold up better for you in terms of the longevity. Loba is a really strong flooring coating that should give you around 30 years of durability, but the semi-gloss or gloss may look better longer as the flooring is used, and that is true of virtually any coating brand. Also with matte, most coating specialists recommend to wait and put that on as the last coat with the gloss underneath or else you could end up with a cloudy finish. These coatings are all made to be clear, and the way that they make them matte is they add a diffusing particle in there to make it more cloudy.

Actually, I think you might be fine to move forward with your final 2 coats of Loba 2K Supra AT (for 3 coats total). One of the exceptions to this is if you need something to prevent side bonding with your wood. Look up side bonding and then figure out if you think it is going to be a problem for you in your climate. That's the main thing that the WS EasyPrime prevents is side bonding; in addition, it brings out a rich wood color and helps the first coat of Supra AT to go on more evenly. If you like the color that you have now and side bonding is not a huge concern, then you would probably be better off to move forward rather than trying to sand that floor down again as that could create some brand new issues for you. It's probably not the end of the world that you skipped the hardener on the first coat. If anything, it might make the upper two layers a little more prone to impact, but this coating has a lot of flex built into it, and if you can live with the risk, it might be acceptable for your application. If this is an expensive home with a heavy grand piano or big dogs with claws, then reconsider leaving that first coat unhardened. Also, if this is an area where heavy appliances will be moved or set, I would also consider a re-do. Although I've worked a lot with WS EasyPrime and Loba 2K Supra AT, I'm not a professional, and Loba has an excellent customer service department, at least in the USA where I have utilized it, so if you are able to call and talk to a company representative, that would be the best option for professional advice on your situation. You may find it interesting to know that Loba makes a product called 2K InvisibleProtect AT which is designed to be used alone, without primer, in order to keep the wood as natural a color as possible. Some people have had issues trying to apply InvisibleProtect AT without a primer first, but it can be done. The 2K Supra AT is not usually used for this because it does impart more of a darkening effect than the InvisibleProtect AT--therefore primer doesn't take away from the final effect when Supra AT is used, and there are benefits to primer (side bonding prevention mainly), so it is standard procedure to use the WS EasyPrime under Supra AT. Note that Supra AT is overall more durable than InvisibleProtect AT, though both are outstanding finishes.

Depends on the look you are trying to achieve. Invisible has a little whitener in it and the sheen level is around 5. It's as close to a raw look you will get. Supra AT in satin has a sheen level around 25. It is much glossier compared to Invisible. Supra AT is the more durable product. You can always use Invisible as a sealer than top coat with Supra AT. They are both compatible products. I would avoid using invisible on a floor for a property on a farm. It will get dirty fast. Go with Supra AT if, you want a matte finish use regular Supra. There is a Loba rep - James, here available to help.

You have a installer (application) problem, not a product problem. The problem is with either drying, abrading or contamination caused by installer. The installer needs to figure that out. The problem maybe wide spread or it maybe isolated. Loba Invisible is a great product when applied properly. Switching to a different brand will not solve your adhesion problem. Have the contractor do a adhesion test in several spots. This will help determine whether screening and re-coating is a waste of time or not. If, the issue is isolated, then go ahead with the screen and recoat. If, it is wide spread, redo the floors. I suspect the cause of the problem can be one of the following The stain was either not completely dried or it's not compatible with the Invisible. The Invisible is just sitting on top. It never bonded to the stain.