Rosealee, yes, you would have to reduce pressure to optimum which is 15 psi. You would have to step your pressure down and match pressure and flow rate to the heads in the flower beds. It is not that difficult. Several in-line pressure reducers would do the trick. These deflection-plate type of heads are also affected by very windy conditions. Why not go drip tape? That is the best system to counter windy conditions. The drip type also would require reducing the water system pressure for the flower beds only 15 to 25 psi. What is your current water pressure and flow rate per zone? Aloha

Hi, If you happen to have the Rainbird 1800 series pop-up heads, then the item you need is called ''RainBird Replacement Cover/Seal Assembly for 1800 Models'' and the Rainbird part number is 116901. You can buy these on-line from Rainbird for $2.30 each, or you can find them at many other on-line retailers. I have not had any luck finding them from Lowes or Home Depot either in their stores or on-line. Regards, Andy in Friendswood (Houston, Texas) Lawnboy_10525 Reference: http://store.rainbird.com/shopexd.asp?id=933 Here is a link that might be useful: Sample on-line store Evergreen Sprinklers

These pipe runs are generally straight in an open area. If you can find the heads before and after the buried units, you should be able to at least get a line to search. The heads are generally placed so you get head to head coverage. Measure 1/3 the distance between the heads and carefully dig down. If this doesn't work, dig a trench from the head you see until you get to the plugged riser. Add a head and trench along to the next one. Sometimes it's not easy. Ron

I've heard that new trees should get 45 minutes a day ==>>> that a nonsensical answer from peeps who have no clue about your soil.. in your yard.. in your weather ... water plants when they need them.;.. and then let them near dry ... i think i gave you the link in your other post ... the new shrubs will only need water this year.. and only in drought next year.. and then be free range .. ergo ... you can use a temporary line.. which you just hooks up to the spigot when you need to ... and remove it after next season ... dont forget the mulch ... you would arm yourself with a hand trowel.. run the line for 30 mins.. and then go see how deep the water got ... and then water for another 30 mins ... you want to achieve a deep watering .. down into the root mass .. and keep going.. until you put down PROPER WATER ... after that.. and with good mulch.. you might not need to water again.. for a month ... when the heat of summer really hits .. keep digging small holes AND FIND OUT HOW IT ALL WORKS IN YOUR SOIL ... as noted.. absolutely no one can tell you hole it all works in your microclimate and soil ... ken