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Flooring Design Dilemma Bathrooms

Should I tear out tile in bathrooms and replace it with LVP?

2 years ago

We’re replacing our old carpet upstairs with lvp. I was so happy that I’d finally made that decision! Then my installer asked if I wanted to demo the tile in the kids’ bathrooms and run the lvp throughout. Ugh! Yet another decision! The tile looks fine, but the installer says there will be a height difference between the bathroom tile and the lvp in the bedrooms and he thinks I’ll regret not replacing the tile with lvp.

Has anyone dealt with a similar situation? Advice and opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Featured Answer

littlebug zone 5 Missouri

2 years ago

last modified: 2 years ago

I would not remove perfectly good tile and replace it with LVP. Why intentionally downgrade?

Comments (19)

J D
2 years ago
Lol he should use a transition strip. Having a slight height difference is normal and not a big deal. Can you show us the tile?
J Young thanked J D
J D
2 years ago
I say lol because it seems like he just wants more money. Nothing necessary about replacing the floor. Also important...is your lvp waterproof? There are water resistant ones but waterproof would make most sense for a kids bath.
J Young thanked J D
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Just tear it all out? Crappy tile job.
Q
Comments (5)
I'm sorry, but I'd have your GC eat the cost of the craptastic job his subbed out to this tile guy. You gave him a chance to fix it; it didn't get fixed. End of story. He pays for the redo, and if it makes you sleep better at night you find the contractor to do the replacement tile. But in no way would I be reaching my hand into my pocket!
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RE: Cost of tearing out backsplash tile
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Comments (7)
lisa9774, Let me agree 110% with CircusPeanut I just finished doing this very same thing. Not for the reasons you want to do it but I decided if we are replacing 22+ feet of drywall on one side of a galley kitchen, I might as well repair the other side too. I popped off a few tiles to get a look at what they were adhered to. Then using a manual drywall saw I cut my first area so I could see inside to check for wires/plumbing pipe, etc. I then scored the top (up against the wall cabs) and then the bottom (against the counter top) with a brand new blade in a heavy-duty utility knife. I changed the blade often. Once those areas were scored it was rather easy to get the drywall saw in there and cut the drywall that didn't seperate with the utility knife scoring it. Replacing the drywall was easier than removing the old stuff, honest! Measure the area. I cut my drywall on the kitchen floor cement foundation, using a utility knife and a straight edge to score it really well. It should snap right at the score line and then you can cut through the last layer, the paper backing. Once you put the drywall up for size, double-measure for any outlets, openings, etc. Put the drywall back down and cut out those areas. Put in your drywall screws making sure to counter-sink them a bit so they don't poke out over the drywall mud. CircusPeanut was right on! I am pushing 60, heavy, with a couple disabiities that make it a bit difficult to stand or bend for too long and yet, I got that drywall up myself. You Can DO this and save the $$$ for something else!
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Bathroom Reno-Should I replace the shower valve? Cut open tile?!
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Comments (7)
The answer to your question is another question: How much money do you want to spend and how much renovating do you want to do? So, yeah, that faucet trim is dated. The tub spout not fitting to the wall looks bad also. You have some options: $ 1. Replace the insides of the valve to stop the leak 2. Also replace the trim 3. Replace the tub spout and fix it so that it meets the tile (shorten the stub). Or $$$$ Replace the tub, retile, and put in new shower faucets. Build out the wall so that it fixes that "shelf" What I would do: I would go with Option #1 to fix the leak and make it look much better without dropping a huge amount of money. If, at some later date, you want to do significantly more work, you can. Usually when you first move into a new home money is tight... so do enough work to make this look 100% better and not leak, but don't drop big coin on it right now. What I would not do: I would not cut into the tile to replace the faucet. It's not going to go back well.
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Am I crazy to get the whole house LVP and no carpet? I'm freaking out.
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Comments (52)
@Chessie The irony is that we actually don't even take baths! The default option was a built-in bathtub surrounded by a rectangular tiled edge, and I knew we'd be bonking our knees and calves into the corners every time we walked into our closets. Similar to this one: So we upgraded to a freestanding just so we could avoid the bruises! Though looking at it now that it's installed, it kind of makes me want to take a bath after all.
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millworkman
2 years ago
"Also important...is your lvp waterproof?"

The LVP may be "waterproof" but that does not mean that the water will not works its way thru the clicklock system if not cleaned up promptly.
J D
2 years ago
I read clicklock systems in waterproof lvp are much tighter and keep water out than other lvp
J D
2 years ago
But I’m no expert on that specific flooring by any means
millworkman
2 years ago
Neither am I but am in construction supply. The "say" that the floor will not allow water to pass thru and you have 24 hours to clean it up. I do not buy that statement. I honestly think they are promoting false hopes but that may just be me. If the water gets thru the system the entire floor needs to pulled up, washed in warm dish detergent and allowed to dry thoroughly. Then the subfloor must be allowed to dry out completely which depending on how wet could take some time. Only then can the flooring be reinstalled.
J D
2 years ago
Well I guess OP should really just leave the tile then
J Young
Original Author
2 years ago

Here’s a photo of the tile along with a sample of the lvp we chose. The tile’s in the kids’ bathroom so it cleans up to be a bit lighter than in the photo shown 😬
millworkman
2 years ago
Roll with it. It will be fine as they both have the brownish family colors.
J Young thanked millworkman
Karen
2 years ago
Do you mind me asking for the name of your LVP. Choosing flooring for a 1br guest house is next on my list and wanted a light white oak look. Thanks.
Sharon Fullen
2 years ago
The only reason I’d switch tile to LVP at this point is if transition is difficult for wheelchair or elderly (trip hazard). It looks go and you’ll get used to it.
J Young thanked Sharon Fullen
J Young
Original Author
2 years ago
@Sharon Fullen I dont have wheelchair concerns i think I’ll stick wiht the tile Thanks for the advice!
rockyroad33
2 years ago
Lvp is not a material I like or would ever use, so I vote keep the tile. I agree with the person who said, why downgrade?
J Young
Original Author
2 years ago
@Karen The flooring is Provenza Moda Living, Road Trip. I have to deal with a lot of existing darker furnishings and this flooring seems to do the trick. Not too dark or too bleached or too gray. Hope that helps.
PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
2 years ago
IMO vinyl plank is not a downgrade but really if you are not changing anything else in the bathroom I would not bother .
J Young thanked Patricia Colwell Consulting
Karen
2 years ago
@j young , thank you!!
ci_lantro
2 years ago
Looks like a small room. I would buy enough of the LVP to do the bathroom floor should you change your mind in a year or two.
J Young thanked ci_lantro
wdccruise
2 years ago
Leave the tile. The LVP doesn't look good with the brown cabinets.

-- amateur
J Young thanked wdccruise

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