Finch -- The hormones that trigger bloom formation rise to the highest point in the stem, so if the rose goes straight up 8 ft., guess where the blooms will be? And yes, some roses also drop their lower leaves. Some people prune ruthlessly after each flush of bloom, to promote another flush, but I think you won't have those plants for many years, if you keep doing that. One approach is to plant something in front of the rose, to cover up its bare legs. (I have heard roses described as "ugly plants with bare bottoms.") Another approach might be to espalier the plant against a fence or wall, pulling canes out on the horizontal (which results in many blooming laterals). Or you can wind long canes around a tripod, to promote the same thing -- blooming laterals. Jeri

There are many variations - but I suspect that yours may be starting slowly from too much heat. Can you arrange some shade/filtered sun using other plants nearby? If you started from seed, Allium can look like tiny grass the first year when it sprouts - so be careful not to pull grass-like seedlings in that area! Yes, for several years new seed and small bulbs will grow larger and be more rewarding each season. And if you cut (mince and eat like chives) the leaves about the point where they flop, you may find that your Allium begins to feed bulbs and multiply from the base. The flowers will throw seed - or you can collect the seed when it begins to dry - and perhaps begin seedlings indoors, or in shade before planting out, to minimize heat-struggle. Flowering Stalks should be firm - so provide mulch &/or Am water if possible. Once flowering begins, it is normal for leaves to flop and die back to feed bulbs. We have opposite problems. I recently moved massive droopy peonies that were not blooming enough, and some over-vigorous clumps of ornamental Allium (medium size purple-globes) to the sunny front garden, and took care - so that the ground does not parch in peak sun...as that is the only spot where that is a risk for me. I added compost and to help hold moisture, and bulbs are aided by a top moist mulch, and the variety of other plants all around for filtered shade at the base. I intend to eat most of the spicy leaves as I don't care for more Sword-play in my garden by late spring - after masses of tulips, narcissus, and hycinths have quit and the lillies and iris are taking over...and Crocosmia ileaves are waiting to join the dance. I'm adding a Dahlia border to the sword beds...and am excited that a Bachelor's button has already pushed thru the mass of swords to bloom cutely. All are worth growing - in their display seasons. Growth and dormant seasons is balanced with other Perennials and annuals. Adding sheer Dahlia foliage mass to existing Roses and monster Rhodies - and by gosh, there's not much dang subtlety about who rules each season in this section of the urban rain forest. Whoo-ah...now to get back to that rain-or-shine deadheading - or the jungle-look will rule. Having so much Spring rain in the PAC NW - we wind up with too much foliage & dense shade unless we deadhead, prune, pull, divide and hack back plants regularly. Wonder if I'll get the courage to prune that lush Magnolia this year - for more light?

Hi Strouper....I was thinking of trying the osteospermum next year from seed. Tell me, when did you start them? You didn't winter sow them, right? I guess you are right, that some annuals you don't have to deadhead, but you might want to. I, for one, am one of those people who if I have the energy and time would love to pull off every ugly leaf and dead blossom. I will even go under the plant and pull off dead or pale yellow leaves that you can't even see. That is just the way I am. So, I guess what I was asking was, if there are any plants that will drop their blossoms and not leave a mess and still keep blooming without deadheading. If they look ugly with dead blossoms on them, or if the blooming comes to a stop when you don't deadhead, then it probably won't do me any good. As for portulaca, did I mention yet, that I discovered my portulaca bloom just as well without deadheading? I haven't pulled one blossom and every morning they are covered with new blooms and you can't see the old blooms through all the flowers. I also have them along the street in the front, so I am not up close and personal with them for it to bother me if they did. Everytime I have walked over and looked at them up close, they look great to me! That has been a very happy discovery this year. I saw an island display outside an office building recently and it was the prettiest I had seen in awhile. It had petunias, next to million bells, with geraniums here and there, and gazanias with that silver foliage all around the perimeter. Might have been a few other things I am forgetting but it was very well done and I liked the silvery leaves all around the perimeter. As for my Pentas, I did buy them late at the nursery, so I am wondering if they just got pot bound and stopped growing and it took them awhile to acclimate themselves. They are maybe not even double the size that they were when I put them in and only now are just starting to show more buds. I always thought they were late bloomers anyway, no? Yes, the Pentas are in the only area I have that is full sun. From morning to sunset. I did look up that Evolvulus and it is very pretty. I haven't seen that around here yet. Also haven't seen any 1/2 price annual sales yet either. I have a few pots that could use a refill. Vera...... you have more energy than 2 people! [g] becksyard.....your zinnias sound very interesting. I didn't know you didn't have to deadhead. I like neat mounds too. I will have to see what colors they have available when I order more seed. I have never tried the shorter zinnias and would love the mildew resistant varieties. Butterfly magnets too. I have a couple of places I can think of putting them. Plus heat resistance, quite a combo, sounds like a perfect plant. :-) Can they be winter sown too? I will have to try the shorter ones next year. Karen...I find that too, that depending on how much sun they are in, most annuals perform differently. I have two large pots on each side of a gate that faces west. They are shaded for a few hours in the morning but then they are the last place the sun hits. I have nicotiana in them by mistake. I lost the labels and thought they were petunias when they were seedlings. [g] They are doing okay, but I am watering twice a day sometimes. I think the nicotiana would like a different position better. So I need to figure out what to put in those pots for next year. I don't want to do portulaca there, which would work well, but I need something fuller and about the 2ft range. It sounds like the profusion zinna might be one possibility. Here is a link that might be useful: Evolvulus

A lot of natives provide seeds for birds in the winter, and look more interesting in frost and snow. I only deadhead if I don't want the plant to put energy into seeding. I discover that if you turn the area into a "feature" the neighbors are more tolerant. If you put something decorative--like a birdbath or a bird house in the area, and even some native shrubs, it looks more "planned" and less un-mowed. I carfully mow the edges of my "wild area" in an undulating curve. Some how this makes it clear that there is a plan and purpose happening--not just untidyness. I saw the mower treatment on a British gardening show in a place where they wanted to leave some grass unmown. they cut a wide path through the "praire" with the mower and let everything grow up around it. It looked great.