Floor plan help/ natural light in kitchen
Lori B
2 years ago
Featured Answer
Comments (29)
Patricia Colwell Consulting
2 years agoemilyam819
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Kitchen lighting plan - need help with recessed lighting layout
Comments (7)I don't know what the rule is on this, but we put our 4" cans with the edge closest to the cabinet over the edge of the counter. That way, they shine right in front of you when you are standing at the counter. A 6" would get pushed back farther if you use the edge. Stand at a counter where you would work comfortably and look up. My thought is that you want the center of the light just in front of you and hitting the counter in front of the upper cabinets. To close and they wash the cabinet more than light your work space and too far back, the center of the light will hit your head rather than toe work area. Make sense?...See MorePlan Natural Gas Generator. Need Help.
Comments (19)Hi Chisue, Glad you found the info useful. The $US 10,000 bid las time round I think puts you into the class two gen set area. These are good systems and popular where I live. Auto start and essentially auto everything. Good in that when the power goes out you do nothing and everything comes back on line in about 20 seconds. These units are lawn mower engine based. Typically air cooled and have two cylinders. They run fast at 3,600 rpm and are noisy. But this is not that big a deal in that this is for only a few days of running untill the power comes back on. The amount of power they can handle is about 10-12kw range. Some companies rate them higher like 15 kw, but I would say this is pushing it. Another something worth remembering is starting current. The other poster was correct in that the calculation is amount of power + some buffer. The some buffer is important. The reason why is that at start up, electric motors draw a lot more current. Can be up to 8 times as much. So to handle this surge you need a big generator head, more copper, and a heavier momentum in the engine. You can begin to see why heavier is better in generators. You have two sumps, I do not know how big these are, also the fridge. Immediately upon power restart this is when the power requirement is the largest. All your motors will be trying to start at the same time. You need to ensure that you have sufficient power to start these motors. At a guess, I think 10kw should be sufficient quite comfortably. A portable 6kw gen set may require some messing about with breakers. IE. you only start one motor at a time. Hence the power surge demand is spread out over time. The other useful thing to remember, or your electrician should know is that your generator set actually generates power as two phases. Huh? What is a phase? Imagine a smooth wave like line, in math it is a sine wave. Now imagine two of them. Just like waves on the ocean sometimes one wave is at a peak, and another wave is at a low point. Your generator will produce these two waves, two phases, and they will be perfectly out of phase with each other. One will be at the peak, while the other will be at the low point. OK now you are confused :) OK the simple thing to remember is that most things you want to power up will be a 120v one phase item. You need to try and evenly divide these items on each of the phases. Sometimes one thing is a power hungry one. This will use up a lot of power on one phase. You cannot borrow power from the other phase. Because you cannot borrow power, you have to size your generator accordingly. For example, a 12 kw generator can be thought of as two 6kw generators (one for each phase). Make sue that if you have a big power item, e.g. your cook top, that you have sufficient to power that one one of the phases. This phase thing can be confusing, and there are some items which actually do use both phases, hence what I have just said in the paragraph above may not be applicable. e.g. Some well pumps are two phased powered. Hence in general it is a good idea to have spare capacity in your generator set. This is expensive. How much spare capacity is difficult to guesstimate. My recommendation is to go for the more expensive class two gensets and stick with that. The reason why is that once you jump to class three the cost tends to almost double because of the genset weight on installation, and the genset cost itself. If you have some key big power items, e.g. you cook top that you must have running, then maybe consider a class three genset setup. From can see from your post, I do not see any big items that would reuire a class three. If you have central A/C and want to run that, then I would recommend a class three genset. May people go for a class two set up, and buy a window air conditioner which they can install and run for a few days while their central A/C is out. You also asked in your post how log you can run a genset for. Well so long as you top up the oil etc. at a shot you can run continuously untill your fuel runs out. Fuel is usually the limitation. If you are on mains gas, then almost indefinately. My genset burns at max rate such that a 500 gallon propane tank will be depleted in 5 days. Note propane tanks can only be filled to 80% capacity, so a 500 gallon tank by volume, but only 400 gallons actual LPG propane. Then your tank may not be full, say half full. So right now I have a two day burn reserve. The flip side is you do not have to run your genset 24 hours. In power outages, I only run for say a few hours for showers, heating no burst pipes etc. The rest of the time if I am out keep it shut off if I am out etc. You may want to run 24/7 however due to your sump pump and basement flooding risk. Hope this is useful, and you are not falling asleep .... All the best, Mike....See MoreFloor Plan/Kitchen Help - Please :)
Comments (0)I cross-posted this here in Kitchens as well. Please forgive me, I am not sure if this post should be in kitchens or building a home. I cross-posted in both forums. Here is the kitchen plan I had drawn up for my first house plan. I have a large sink looking out to the backyard. Love! It does not line up the house plan perfectly below, since I do not have access to the pantry from the kitchen plan. I was planning on getting rid of the large pantry in that location. Old Plan is below. I love the plan and how it is laid out with the kitchen, dining and living room, but I do not like the long hallway from the entry way to the master bedroom. The front of the house is the right side of the picture with no real curb appeal as we opted for a side entrance vs. a front entrance. The entry area would actually be extended to be more of a welcoming porch so it would stick out from the garage. You can make out a pencil mark where we drew in angle for an entry. We had too many changes so we changed directions to a new plan. See below. Our newest plan, still not perfect. But as you can see, it is an interior wall that has no window at a sink. I have the sink in the island. There are windows in the living room and dining room, but it does not give direct natural light. I am still not totally in love with this plan, but there are parts that I do like. I am trying to like the kitchen, but I haven't been able to commit. I could change the layout so that the island faces into the living room, but then the rest of the space gets 'wonky.' A BIG thank you to all who help with any ideas!...See MoreWould natural light be an issue with this floor plan?
Comments (25)7-8 foot high windows? on a 10 ft ceiling? That is not typical but not impossible. Do you know how much tempered glass adds up to in cost on a house? You also may have issues with support for the second floor in some areas. By issues, I just mean some increased cost. An 8 foot window is easiest to do with 1 foot above and 1 foot below. Tempered glass is required for less than 18 inches off the ground. I believe it is a significant upcharge. I would consider using a plan designed for your lot (and your climate). I would shape the house in a way where the covered porch does not block your sun. The morning room will not get great morning sun, will be cold in the winter, and then will bake in the afternoon. I can't stress this enough - a room with 3 sides windows will be a challenge to heat in the winter. R value of a typical window is 3 compared to your walls which should be 20 or so. The headers over the windows and stud stacks in between will be closer to 5 which is still way below the overall walls. So define "generally settled"....See Morecalidesign
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