https://designandbuildwithmetal.com/industry-news/2020/12/03/sherwin-williams-introduces-new-fluropon-metal-trends-color-collection

You may want to check into this product, but the price may be prohibitive.

You can get Hardie with a finish so you don't have to paint.

Do you have any suggested sources? Thanks

Have you checked out Shou Sugi Ban japanese burned wood siding it is a dark cahrcoal color nd looks awesome for a very long time

Thanks Hallett, Yes, I already live near the water, so I do know the risks and the joys. It is a pretty rural there, so I may be limited by what contractor wants to work with, and he doesn't care for Hardie. Hardie may beyond budget too, so looking for alternatives. In my present town Hardie or real wood are the standard. It just isn't for this location. I am still considering though.

Cheaping out is not going to serve you in the long run. Take it from someone who had to rebuild after Irma - for three times the insurance payout.

I would choose natural cedar shakes, or Hardie.

You have to get a contractor who knows how to install Hardie. I think they certify them. I wonder if their panels are less expensive, at least in terms of labor.

But there are other products out there. I'm not a fan of vinyl.

Why not just repair damaged areas as you said and repaint? Factory prepainted siding , vinyl, and new paint on your existing T111 will all fade, they are only fade and UV resistant.

Why not just repair damaged areas as you said and repaint? Repainting in future would be cheaper than replacing vinyl and repainting over vinyl the paint cannot be darker than the original vinyl color. If you add new siding over the old how does your contractor plan on that? Rainscreen? Directly over old siding? How to seal/caulk joints around your window and door openings? I don't think you want wind driven rain trapped between the old and new siding. Repainting the existing allows you the exact color you prefer, none of the other options will.

Venmar, a rainscreen or waterproof barrier would be added before installing a new product, or old siding removed. I The T111 has leaked at seams and it is 30 years old, so seems it needs replacing. I am definitely researching more and looking at engineered wood and pre-colored Hardie and Nichiha fiber cement (cannot paint easily in this environment and the house is taller than it may look). I am also looking at some composites that have lap siding and board and batten. Who know how much fun siding shopping could be???? Fortunately, I have a trusted local building supply company and will make appointment with a friend in sales to review options, compare pricing, and see what can actually be obtained in today's crazy market.

Metal siding as a rain screen would be economical and modern. https://thehivephilly.com/corrugated-metal-siding-panels/

We chose steel siding. The first year we moved in their was a huge storm. Our house had dimples. The siding was ripped off the bottom third of some walls; other walls were shredded. If the home was a couple of years old, it couldn't be matched and there was a fight with the insurance to reside the whole house. Also good luck getting it fixed quickly if it was a major storm. Siding is not where I would save the money.

John3582 was the damage you describe to the steel siding? Or did you have that with another material? Definitely wanting to spend budget wisely and get the right material that will last. Thanks

The vinyl sided houses were missing large areas of siding. Even whole sides. Ours was dimpled, so cosmetic but intact. (Think a convertible after a hailstorm versus a normal car.) Trying to get contractors after a big storm is a nightmare. It was nice not to need it done right away. I think there was a price break on insurance too. Also seemed to fade less. We rebuilt after a house fire and chose steel again, might have gotten Hardey but steel was cheaper.

I am finishing installing steel siding on my house. 32" wide sheets, 26 gauge. They are not going to come off (well maybe a tornado). They also need no maintenance and are very resistant to damage. You have to like the look, though.

We are in the middle of having cedar T1-11 removed (installed in 1974) and replaced with horizontal boards by Everlast. It seems to be like a vinyl system but the boards themselves are stiff and not bendy like vinyl. I have no idea how it would wear in a coastal area but it's supposed to last. Color (at least our light tan) goes through the product.

@H B, where are you located? We are trying to get installer and information on Everlast. Hope to do large re-siding project by this time next year. Would love to hear about your project! Thanks!

ETA: not trying to hijack the OP's thread. Only looking for siding info, so I think my question fits.

I'm in the NE. We found one installer through the Everlast website (a larger firm that specializes in siding and roofing); however, as with most projects (at least at our house), it's not straightforward and we needed the gutters taken down (and re-installed) and fascia replaced, etc. and this big firm was not willing to do those details. So I found a local, experienced GC who has done similar work (it installs similar to vinyl) who was willing to do it (as well as the other work needed) and so far, so good. He did contact and work with the Everlast rep. We initiated about a year ago and our job just came up in his list about 2 weeks ago to start. So in that time, he said he's heard of more interest in Everlast.

I don't know what's considered "budget" or not; I do know we were having trouble finding painters willing to deal with all the issues our old siding was having (and our last paint job was $$$ IMHO), and this will alleviate our having to do a painting rodeo every 8 years (again, just what our house was needing).

Will the woodpeckers still peck holes in it? dunno. I do know it's not going to blister, peel, warp or crack. Knock on wood.

Everlast does have a board and batten profile; the GC has commented he likes that it is not bendy at all (like vinyl) and each plank/board interlocks and there is no flex, cannot pull it away from the wall at all. So not sure if that's helpful for winds, etc.

Great info - thanks so much! Updates and pictures when you can would be appreciated as well.

So I don't have any sense of what is "budget" or how Everlast compares to vinyl or any other product. Here's two photos of it going up on the backside of our house yesterday if that is helpful to anyone. We have the 8" high clapboard (think that's the right term).

All along the bottom, there is a (not visible) hanging bracket. Each subsequent course fits on top of this, and you can see the attachment system (both to the sheathing and to itself). The ends fit into channels like vinyl siding. These planks are much lighter than hardie, and not flexible like vinyl, both features that can make it easier to work with. If you attempt to pry any boards, they do not move. I am very much hoping the hype matches the performance and this does not need painting ever, and that it lasts as long as advertised (50 years). They make a limited selection of j=channeled backings for areas like the laundry exhaust (below) and other protrusions. The GC is doing very well fashioning some custom shapes for us.

And as it is just going up, I have zero idea if it may interest the woodpeckers as much as our previous (cedar T1-11) did.

H B I have learned more about Everlast as it is sold by my local building supply as a new product. Since it is made in PA the company will even send a rep to consult on project. WOW! Seriously thinking about this product. Thanks!

Yes, the GC purchased our Everlast through our local supply and has had the rep out to assist. Once before starting the job to discuss how to address various details and what to order; and once after the job started to make sure it was going on properly. And once they got started, GC was very happy with how it goes on and impressed with the product (he's done vinyl before). It's not inexpensive, however, compared to trying to find people to scrape/patch/paint our house on a regular (8-10 years) basis -- this seemed like a reasonable alternative. We have the color called Sand Dune.

One tip -- if you know the color you want, ask the rep for the paint recipe for it; we had to use white azek for some trim bits and that will help going to the paint store and getting a match. Good luck!

Hi Debra, Would you mind sharing the materials you chose? I am in the same situation, looking for a T1-11 replacement. Thank you.