Red oak hardwood floor issue
terriwiborg
2 years ago
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G & S Floor Service
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Oil-based poly for red oak hardwood floor?
Comments (0)I deceided to go with oil-based polyurethane for red oak hardwood floor finish. One issue IâÂÂm uncertain of is ambering (yellow/orange shade) of oil bases poly. I want to minimize it . Can anyone recommend some brand verses others that would help in keeping this amber in check. If thatâÂÂs impossible, maybe some light stain with water finish is better solution? Thanks...See MoreEngineered hardwood to complement existing red oak floors
Comments (8)I'm in Canada, so I get the cool feeling. As a cork flooring professional I have 'issues' with in-floor radiant heat because the product I LOVE (love cork....LOOOOOOOVE IT!) cannot go over top. Cork has TOO HIGH of an insulation value. It counter-acts any heat that is trying to push through. Wood is a semi-conductor. It will allow 'some' energy (ie. heat, electricity) through while blocking the rest of it. For that reason, most people who want in-floor radiant heat to warm their toes use tile, stone or carpet (are you trying to heat the HOUSE with the radiant heat or are you warming your toes?). The other issue I have with in-floor radiant heat = it severely limits the product you are allowed to use over top. The BIGGEST issue is with ELECTRIC HEAT. Sigh....the stuff that is used most often in 'renovations' with radiant heat. Ahem....electric radiant systems are not the one's who tell you what can and cannot go over their product. They will 'claim' just about anything to get you to purchase their product. Nope. It is the FLOORING manufacturer who says, "Appropriate for use with hydronic in-floor radiant heat." Notice I changed to 'hydronic' with that last statement? Yep. Hydronic = water/oil/gel. It is the most efficient, expensive and the most rigorous to install. It can (potentially) raise the floor height of the room by more than 1". It can be hung from the subfloor BELOW the floors (that means you need access to ceiling in your basement (assuming you have a basement...I can't tell). That will keep the floor-raise to a minimum (or zero...). It is still expensive to install. So...my question is: which TYPE of in-floor radiant heat are you using? Hydronic? Electric? Or my favourite 'oldy but a goodie' = Forced Air (yes...I've seen it! Soooo interesting...from a house built in the 1950's)? The TYPE of in-floor radiant system AND the REASON for the heat (whole home system or just warming your toes) will dictate WHAT you are allowed to put over top....See MoreBleaching red oak hardwood floors
Comments (10)I assume you're using standard two part wood bleach with hydrogen peroxide and sodium hydroxide. Bleach can have stop and lap marks so we always do two coats to ensure the effect is even. If you don't want it quite as white, the bleach can be diluted, but still apply two coats. We've never used NordicSeal right over bleach but I can't imagine why it wouldn't work. We generally use Bona White over bleach. Regardless of the color you decide on, you should use a Bona sealer. Bona recommends using a sealer before coats of urethane....See MoreRed Oak Hardwood Floor Help
Comments (2)I also have red oak and have scheduled a job for the summer to refinish. My concern is also the pink tinge, which I will be solving with two coats of Bona NordicSeal or Bona NaturalSeal, water based finish like Bona Mega One or Traffic HD should also help. Since you're staining dark the pink should not be much of an issue though....See Moreterriwiborg
2 years agomillworkman
2 years agoKaren
2 years agoterriwiborg
2 years agoUptown Floors
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoTimothy Winzell
2 years agoSJ McCarthy
2 years agoKaren
2 years agoKate
2 years agoterriwiborg
2 years ago
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