Its in a 15 gallon with many tips and blooms..but there must have been rot this year. As time goes by and even since I posted,everything above says "not enough roots" to handle the blooms and leaves of this year. Old plants get root rot much easier than young. I have young Plumeria in full leaf now,and have been for a couple of months- three of them.

Im not thinking rot since there are no ’ill’ symptoms...more likely root bound situation.

-s

I have seen often in the islands a plumeria with no leaves but in full bloom. Usually that’s in March so even by late Cali summer standards this a bit odd. I have a few sports that will do that too. The odd part is it’s certain branches and not the whole tree. My first inclination is to insect activity is stunting leaf growth.

I'm pretty sure it was root rot and the plant has used all summer to just forming real leaves now. In contrast a trio of Plumeria cuttings from Florida that I started rooting three years ago are showing bloom stalks with a great head of leaves. Close call if those blooms are this year or for next year.

Celadine has a will to live. Except for the blooms this was an almost no growth summer. Tomorrow I might post a photo. This whole situation is new for that old plant.

I would think a plumeria COULD survive for many decades in a pot, providing it got good care.

A Plumeria that was overwatered in winter, or kept too cold, or had the soil break down, or got diseased or damaged, or fill-in-the-blank, would not last very long.

The plant had Broms and Kenilworth ivy growing at the base all winter- as it usually had. Only I think root rot set in this time. So gone is the ivy and soon the rest of the broms.

But -not a single adult leaf going into October. Not good.

Behind is 12' Mango and a Tequila Agave..so this is the hot spot for my plants.

Looks like the roots got damaged over winter.

I think that's the final result. The first time in a pot the roots rotted,but around 2009,I planted it in the ground..and it fell over by spring. It was just a large cutting.

What threw me off this year is..Its had cover under it for years potted and in years that were much wetter it had been fine...until now

I think if not for that stake..it might have fallen over this year too.

One more update. I thought I might have too much soil in the pot..but when I went down an inch or so- I saw white roots. It must had winter rot and it's taken all of the summer to get new roots going. So,I just moved it into a winter spot that gets even more sunshine. I guess with them,every minute of sun counts. You can see how the leaves on Celadine still never reached full size. My other no ID Plumeria have and also just barely squeaking their fist ever blooms. I started them as small cuttings from Florida. Red,maybe.

This was an odd situation. Glad it’s slowly coming about.

What are yr night temps? may be too cold for good growth? 65F is winter temps for tropicals. and how many hours daily do you get temps over 80F? for how many months? i don’t think it’s the pot i think it’s not warm enough to grow sufficiently well in your climate.

it’s best with nightly 75F and day 80-90F.

lol,No nights in summer of 75f here. Thats near our summer high temps. It usually grows normal sized foliage if much slower than warmer summer climates. Its marginal here. Somehow last years winter was too something and she lost much roots. Still,I was wondering how many people have kept potted plumeria for 20,30 years or more?..or is that rare?

Don’t know, in texas and Fl lots of people grow them in pots though.

there’s a thread about growing in palm Springs. saying most nights are 50s, buf days often in 100s.. so it heats up sufficiently. yours does not get enough heat then, and is rather cool at night. that is why it is slow to grow .also .it is may be too damp in big pot in winter?

perhaps you could down size it ? and prune somewhat?