Ive been in the game for a long long time and will gladly break down your thread for you based on my observations of the industry and the men who conduct this type of business within it, and the buyers like yourself who make the purchases from guys like these. Quote" We have a guy that has been in the pool business for 35 years and used to own his a pool company but now he is retired "Quote If this is the case, why isn't he still in the business? My very long term competitors have enjoyed family business which was passed on to their children. Quote" and has no licence but he said he would take on our project for a small fee $ 5000.00. "Quote This would scare me because the guy isn't in any particular legitimate business. Quote" He know everyone in the business he would have us do it as O/B. "Quote I seriously doubt he knows everyone in the industry, and those he does, who provide service, will certainly give him a kicker on the tab. Of course he'll have you do it as an owner/builder, that's what suits him best. Quote" We are worried about our risked involved. Quote I'm certain that he isn't worried about the risk involved because he has none whatsoever. Quote" We got bids for a new pool, bbq, hardscape, firepit and landscaping. Well all the pool company's came in 25,000 higher then O/B. "quote This may well be possible. I'm curious, how many of his finished backyards with an equal amount of work have you actually seen, and more importantly, how many of these buyers did you get to engage in an intimate conversation in his absence to discuss the process. Quote" What do you think? "Quote I think that you'll find that the only difference in price between owner/builder and consultant is minimal. Subs will always charge an owner/builder more than a legitimate pool construction contractor. If they're interacting with an ex-industry insider they'll charge you more than they'd do the work for another builder for. The only difference is that they'll be giving him a cut of the ticket. He and they both know the actual value of services rendered. His take goes above it. If you go owner/builder, do it on your own. Don't pay the subs higher prices and him too. Our areas pool consultants are builders who couldn't make it as a legitimate business in the pool construction business. They were washouts from the game and chose the only opportunity left available to them. It's very simple formula. Pass all the risk off to the buyer and have him pay more for service than a builder who builds many pools a year would pay. This way you can easily double your 5000 take. If there's is a problem it's really no sweat because he isn't the contractor of record. Your name is on the building permit and your the contrctor of record now. If there's a problem your completely resonsible. Quote" But the savings is great! "Quote Is it really? See ya Kelly

Really, you have quite a few issues that make tearing out what's there and replacing it a better option than attempting to rework what you have. 11K is a bit steep for refacing, but realize that you also asked for quite a bit of labor in moving around stuff. Moving old stuff is more costly than ripping it out and replacing it with new stuff. Issue #1 is the fridge location. There are several possible solutions to this, but all would require remaking a large part of your layout. Issue #2 is your DW is right in the middle of your prep zone. That complicates being able te separate the prep and cleanup functions and keeps that area muddled. Issue #3 is the paucity of actual prep space. You're mostly standing in the corner facing away from anyone who might visit you. I had a similar layout, and it always felt like "time out" punishment to me. Issue #4 is the bookcase/MW area that serves as a dumping ground rather than an area for decorative items or even a functional snack area. (Move the fridge here with the MW and you now have a great snack area.) Issue #5 is the soffits taking up valuable "overstock" space for seldom used items. That's not space you'll drag out the stepstool and use everyday, but it WILL be useful for turkey platters and the seldom used espresso machine. Issue #6 is the need for better lighting in the kitchen. You need to address this no matter what you choose. Under cabinet lighting becomes more of a must as we age because our eyes need more light to be able to see as well as we did when we were young. Under cabinet lighting puts the light directly onto your work surface where you need it. You also could probably use tweaking of the existing central light fixture into a couple of semi flush lights and possibly some recessed lighting. Issue #7 is the lack of proper landing space around your range, which is one of the things you hope your tweak will help with. Yes, it can, but your proposal doesn't go far enough in addressing all of the issues as a whole. My advice would be to take this layout to several local kitchen shops and see what type of suggestions you get offered as to how to make the space more functional. (This is after getting lots of suggestions here that can open your eyes to the possibilities.) Talk the the KDs about the various "average" costs for the different lines that they carry and the number of options offered by the manufacturer both in door style and stain as well as the thickness of the spec book (indicates the number of variations offered, i.e. the line's flexibility) For the same 12K you were quoted, I could get you all new taller cabinets in Shenendoah along with granite countertops and the installation of all of that. I'm not counting the electrical for the lighting or the demolition of the soffits in there, as costs for that will vary depending on if systems are located in them as well as drywall repair varying depending on location. In the end, for just slightly higher than you were quoted, you could have a MUCH better functioning kitchen with all new cabinets and countertops.

Well, this is what we came up with :)

You don't have room for either cabinet by the door. You open the door and walk directly into the cabinet. Your entry will look much better and more spacious with just the antique mirror on the wall. Leave the floor clear. That also allows you to turn your rug the other direction so it fits the doorway.