Hi Dave! It is indoors, it gets indirect light, but it's not exactly close to a sunny window... Also, it's been raining nonstop for months here, so I don't remember a sunny day in a long time... Right now it is probably equivalent to shade maybe. No heating vent... I live in Brazil by the way. It's autumn now but it's not cold, about 23ºC / 73ºF. I suspected inadequate drainage because I wasn't watering too frequently, maybe once every two weeks (but it's humid here) or when I thought the subtract looked dry. I never fertilized. It was in regular potting mix, with some orchid mix and the pot had some drainage holes. I stopped watering since I posted this, but last week it was looking even worse, with the brown spots getting bigger... So I repotted. I changed to potting mix + orchid mix + fern mix and added a TON of perlite and changed to a pot with bigger and more drainage holes. It had a little root rot, so I cut off the bad roots. Most of the roots looked ok though! I also put it in my balcony so it gets more light. I checked the unfurled leaf and it was brown inside, so I cut it off. I wonder if I should cut off the brown leaves. Now there's only a couple that are not affected.

Yes, a node is the bud, the bump which is usually just above the line which divides sections of the stem. In your marked picture, you've indicated the brown section division line as a node rather than the bud, which isn't correct. You did identify a bud, which IS a node. Once a node breaks and produces a new growth, it can't regenerate again if the growth dies. If that growth dies but not all the way back to the parent stem, there could be a node that could grow. This is what has happened on your stem sections 4 and 5. So look for the nodes, the bumps on the stem, rather than stem sections. The node you cut into is high and obvious, sometimes they're flat with only an encircling indentation to show you where they are. I'm not of the opinion that cutting a stem with a node away from the parent plant will encourage it to grow. By doing that you cut off energy the main stem is providing to that stem sections with the node, making it weaker. You also introduce an open wound where rot could start. So there's no benefit by cutting in my opinion and I would leave everything alone, just be patient. It will grow whenever it's ready, it might even wait until spring. It's possible node 3 could grow, it hasn't turned black so that's a good sign. I suppose it depends on where the cut is on the node, hopefully it's on one side or the other of the microscopic tissue where growth comes from. There's a node between where you indicated Node 1 and Node 2. The node, the bump, should be just above the lower brown ring. I can't tell which way the short stem with Node 4 and 5 is growing, but there is a node in the section that comes off the main stem. The next section attached to it that terminates with a cut may or may not have a node. Looking carefully with a magnifying glass for the bumps might tell you. On watering, if you can't tell for sure if the medium is damp then it's pretty dry and I'd go ahead and water. These are tropical plants and don't like being completely dry at the roots.

I have a ‘Sparkling Sarah’ Chinese Evergreen pups, regular monstera deliciosa cutting (rooted), marble queen pothos, a Chlorophytum amaniese ‘Fire Flash’ (aka Orange Spider Plant) pup, syngoniums (green and pink) , heart leaf philodendron

Completely agree w ken~I never fertilize a plant until it’s been in my care several months bcuz you don’t know exactly what it’s recent situation was & you don’t want, or need, to over feed! It’s perfectly fine w/o fertilizing 2-3 months. I agree it looks pretty good too, not too stressed. Look into making self watering poles~the type you’re using offers support only but if the roots higher up get moisture & nutrients also, as when climbing in nature, you’ll get bigger leaves on an overall bigger & happier plant! To be honest, it’s watering needs greatly depend on how it’s been growing previously. I had a Monstera cutting I chopped after a hailstorm last summer, then dropped in a nearby bucket under a giant crepe myrtle, & promptly neglected, take off after it collected rain water a couple of times, & so, to this day it grows only in water! Lol. It was thriving as well as the mother plant in custom coco husk mix, so I didn’t see a need to change it. When I got my 1st albo cutting, it had started rooting already so I put in my usual custom aroid mix that plants love, but after a couple of weeks it just didn’t seem happy~no obvious issues but not as strong & crisp as it had been. And just didn’t seem like stress~I mean, it was overnighted. So I switched to a semi hydro set up w perlite & it perked up & took off!! Only recently, after leaving it for a year or so since it was so happy, I moved to just coco husk, bcuz they hold moisture in a similar way but a step closer to a drier substrate. If I sent the cutting I separated in dec, but already well rooted, to a buyer who planted & followed the usual “let dry out or nearly dry out first” rule, it would stress much more than if placed in a semi hydro set up. But you risk root rot, practically guarantee it, if the reverse happens. My Thai constellation came from a seller who tried aroid mix & perlite, but it only maintained~no deterioration but no growth either~until she moved it to leca in a semi hydro set up. It went quickly from 1 to 2 leaves & was working on its 3rd, so she recommended I do the same. I did, & it just split out it’s 3rd leaf since November or December. It’s growing as quickly as my albo. So that’s my very long winded way of saying~I would ask your seller what it’s previous environment was. Then, unless you’re given some specific info to follow up with, I would leave exactly as is to settle for a bit. I would look into a different pole & increase the humidity, period. Even if your humidity measures ok, an increase can only help & boost the energy available to devote solely to new growth because it has abundant moisture w/o drowning the roots. Personally, I feed my plants a fabulous mixture of nutrients added to their watering. I use something made locally but PhiloGrow, available on Etsy from the lady who makes it herself & it’s fabulous, or Liquidirt are my top choices otherwise! The perfect assistance for weak stems & growing stronger roots. No worries of burning like fertilizer but the difference is obvious. I’ve never had plants grow so much from November thru February as they have since I started using those (& switched everything to some form of my custom soilless substrate). It’s difficult to be patient when we get new plants we want to love up, but patience, ie. time to observe & get to know what’s actually needed, is often the best form of love you can provide! Good luck~