Are you in California? If so, your choices will be complicated by having to comply with Title 24. I would consider going with something like Lutron RadioRA2 for controls. There is a long thread in this forum on recessed lighting with LEDs. Have you seen it? Here is a link that might be useful: recessed cans for LEDs discussion

Yes, those are oak cabinets and the hissy fit your DH had, may have been a good hissy fit. Covering oak cab with paint is a long, long, ardious process to try to cover the grain and texture of the oak. Gel stain will work wonderfully. Directions... 1. Sand. 120 grit 2. scrub 3. sand again lightly 4. wipe the cabs down with a denatured alcohol one brand is called klen strip 5. Paint a single light coat of oil-based wood conditioner This is one way to help make sure the stain goes on to the oak evenly. You can use a paintbrush. Do this about 1 hour before staining. 6. Use a sponge or cloth to put the gel stain on. You can rub it on but it will be very dark. Relax, the color will lighten as you go but know that it will feel super rich, thick and dark. Work it slowly into the wood. Spreading the color as you cover the wood. Follow the grain of the wood. Let the stain dry and put on another coat. 7. Use a top coat. I am told Miniwax has a great top coat. You may need to let the top coat dry over night and at least 2 maybe 3 coats. Oh wait you said you like GF. They have a great top coat too. I would also recommend you take the cabinets down and do this huge project in the garage with the doors up. Get lots of fresh air. Here are a few GW links.. I know the titles sound scary but knowledge is power. Once you know the worst you can handle and turn it into the best. : ) Gel Stain Uneven on First Coat: HELP! http://www.thathomesite.com/forums/load/wood/msg040130294398.html?6 What finish over poly gel stain? http://www.thathomesite.com/forums/load/wood/msg051117381161.html?6 Gel Stain Help - big project! http://www.thathomesite.com/forums/load/decor/msg051057405129.html?14 And lastly, hang in there. It is a hard project but you will be saving lots and lots of money. The cabs you have are in good shape and you are recycling them. All good. Keep reminding yourself that you are saving money. Put the radio on while you work, if you prefer a book on tape, talk radio or something to keep you going through the process. It will get done and you will be so very proud of yourself. ~boxer Here is a link that might be useful: Gel Stain Hell (igloo chic's post 2008)

Beaded Island Panel (not even sure what this means) - $248 Aesthetic... Side or back? I have a plain panel (for budget reasons) on the back of my peninsula. I now see that since there are stools (or people) there all the time, you really cannot see much of the panel. So, I will not be adding decorative doors later as I had originally planned. Cutlery divider - $68 Cheaper at BB&B or elsewhere. However, if you want it to fit "exactly", have your cabinetmaker do it. This is the one insert I bought from our cabinetmaker for that reason...and it fits exactly! You can get the "cut to fit" or make your own for less, so it's up to you. (There's a thread right now about how difficult some trimmable/cut-to-fit inserts are to actually trim properly.) Door mounted spice rack - $117 Cheaper to buy elsewhere. You could also use a drawer or triple-height shelf in an upper cabinet (triple height is an insert w/3 shelves...each one higher than the one in front of it.) If you go the door-mounted route, remember the shelves will need to be cut back to fit the spice rack...or else be sure it fits b/w shelves and don't store anything on the shelves that would get in the way of the rack when the cabinet door is closed. Have you thought of a 9" or so spice pullout instead? Drawer full extension w/ soft close drawer - $73/each Full-extension - definitely worth it and what I consider a "must have" Soft-close - a "nice to have" but not a must. What's the cost difference b/w full-extension & full-extension w/soft-close? Neither of these can usually be done later If you end up with any roll-out tray shelf trays (ROTS), then only get full-extension, not soft-close as soft-close means you have to wait for the closing delay b/f closing the doors. Glass door clear - $302 Glass door seeded - $536 Much cheaper elsewhere for both. My KD was upfront with me and told me NOT to get my glass doors & glass shelves from her b/c she was too expensive. She recommended we go to a glass "store" (she was so very right!) Don't forget glass shelves Knife block insert - $138 Cheaper elsewhere (check Amazon) Open shelf base cabinet (I guess this is for cook books, etc.?)- $296 I would not do unless it's outside the kitchen proper...dust & dirt can easily collect in base cabinets. Plate rack - $484 Aesthetic...but unless it's installed where there are no cabinets, I don't think it can be installed at a later date. Pot and pan cabinet 30" - $390 Drawers! Definitely worth it! Roll out shelf - $103 I repeat, drawers! Definitely worth it :-) Thread: Drawers or doors with pull outs? Spice drawer insert - $104 Spice rack - $315 These 2 AND a spice rack in the door? How many spices do you have? See this thread: How do you store a LARGE collection of spices? Tight mesh pantry shelving - $88 I wouldn't use this at all...I had that in my old kitchen and I hated it! Instead, use a melamine coated solid shelf...easier to clean up, no problems w/spills from the spill to the floor, etc. My KD told me to put in my own shelves as, again, the Contractor overcharges for them. So, our contractor built the pantry and we finished it (Sharb-inspired Pantry Done!) See this pantry thread: Pantry photos/ pics of pantries Tilt tray - $120 Don't have one, didn't want one (and still don't). One disadvantage is that they push the sink back farther to make room...so your sink is set farther back and it can be an issue with back pain (especially if you're tall). However, others here have them and like them. So, it's personal preference. I think these can be retrofitted later...but only if you leave enough space in front of the sink for one. Trash can pullout 2 bin - $409 Definitely worth it. You can retrofit it, but be sure to order the cabinet w/o the door attached (but you do need the door!). Later, you'll attach the pullout you purchase to the door so it's a pullout. It's probably cheaper to do it yourself, but this is one place that I opted to let the cabinetmaker do to ensure the drawer/pullout glides were installed properly.

Thank you so much everyone, I really appreciate you all taking a look at the pics and your feedback! Justgotobeme .. Honestly, we haven't done much with the house in the last couple of year, besides up keep and painting when needed. Our girls are all teenagers now, I have a Senior, a junior and a freshman .. We decided since they were growing up so quick that we would spend time as a family going and doing the last couple of years. We have two boats we keep at the coast now and spend a lot of time there, deep sea fishing and exploring the outter banks. I figured the house will still be here when the kids go off to college, but wow .. They are growing up quick!! Our bedroom and bathroom were the only two rooms left to be redone. December 17th was our twenty year anniversary, so as a present to each other we decided to get them finally revamped. :) I have an album of us working on the house over the years, so in some of the pics the rooms aren't quite complete. As you all know I have an estate auction addiction, so the house is always in flux .. as I find new things and move stuff here and there. I've always kind of gone for a collected over the years look. I'll link the album below if anyone would like to take a look. :) The gym pictures are in the cottage, you'll see pics of the big house and our cottage around back. Thanks again everyone :) Here is a link that might be useful: House and cottage pictures.