breezy, I'm surprised no one replied in Flooring. I didn't since I have not tried to match stains to an existing flooring. But I have heard from others that it is pretty much a trial and error process. Take some scraps of the new flooring and rail and test out various stains and mixes of stains. Be sure to apply finish to see how it looks in the final state. For a real pumpkin color, try Sherwin Williams Wood Classics Golden Oak. In fact SW has some nice sample strips of their stains on various kinds of wood - you might want to pick up a full fan deck of those and see which look closest to your heart pine. Another place to ask for help is in the Wood Working Forum - they probably play with adjusting color of stain more than flooring people. ;-) Good Luck - I know the lack of response can be frustrating!

You should talk to a local flooring expert. I was going to go with a 5" plank in our lower level and they talked me out of it because it's too dry here (which causes shrinking etc) and because it isn't as flexible in earth quakes. They sell anything, but don't recommend anything above 4" wide and really push you to 3. Its not a sales issue, they will pull out sample pics to share showing why NOT to use it. It's such an issue here, they would sell me the 5" but wouldn't warrenty it.

Hi there! While we are not located in Detroit, I think we may be able to shed some light on a few of your questions... Humidity in hardwood flooring is not something to mess around with. Whatever you chose, solid or engineered, be sure it is properly acclimated in your home. A local dealer/contractor with NWFA ties should be able to make adjustments for the time of year that it is being installed. But, do not be surprised if you still see movement in the dryer months... if it is installed right the gaps created by a dry winter will close right up as summer comes around. Engineered floors will usually have better dimensional stability in a 5 inch plank. But, that's not to say that solid wouldn't preform. And, solid flooring will give you a structural improvement value on your home that you will not get from an engineered floor. Trust your contractor. Local contractors should be taking humidity readings of the floor and be prepared to give you a good answer to this question based on your weather conditions. I wouldn't want to speculate, as we are not based in Detroit. Five inch boards are much more widely available these days than they were just a few short years ago. But, finding that combination of species, colors, plank size, etc., is where using an informed flooring store comes in. All the online research is for not if you don't have a contractor/store that can give you good options that are based on industry knowledge. It sounds like you did find a store that you like but you are a bit afraid to jump in due to price. We would use this opportunity to remind you that in the $13 per square foot price (which is not an out of line price based on the information you have given) you have to factor in their knowledge, time, flooring options, etc. Remember you are making the choice to stay away from the Lumber Liquidators for a reason... local dealers' pricing will reflect that difference as well. As far as the straight edges versus the mirco-bevels go, If you go with a line like Mirage that is of a higher caliber manufacturing process then the straight edges are much better. Regular, run of the mill products may have issues arise from trying to get the look of a job-finished floor without the on-site sanding or better milling processes. I would suggest mirco-bevels if price is important. Once again, refer back to your local dealer. Thanks for the question! We wish you luck on your project! Champion Floor Co. Here are a few links to help with your search for information: http://woodfloors.org/ http://www.miragefloors.com/ENG/why-mirage-hardwood-floors.php http://www.flooring-professionals.com/how-moisture-affects-hardwood-flooring/

Hi Mike ... Believe it or not, a plastic pot with the dimensions of 3.5in diameter/4.5in deep is TOO BIG for a miniature African Violet. A pot that size should hold a plant that will grow to approx. 3 times the pot diameter (i.e. a standard - 12 inches in diameter). African Violets come in, essentially, (3) size ranges ... Standard - 8+ inch diameter when mature Semi-Miniature - 6-8" diameter when mature Miniature - not exceeding 6" diameter when mature A mature miniature or semi-miniature AV will be most comfortable in a pot no larger than 2 1/2" in diameter. The most typical sized pot for an African Violet standard is the pot that you have - 4" diameter. Difference in AV mature size (and appropriate potting sizes) can be seen in the following photo ... Since this is your first African Violet, you should be able to find a nice blooming Optimara at a local florist. The Optimaras have been bred to tolerate many of the mis-steps that a first time grower might take. One of these plant would be perfect to begin to learn about how to care for AV's. (i'm recommending a florist to try and help you avoid some of the pest problems which often come with grocery store purchases plants). There are a few things you will want to do BEFORE you bring your African Violet home ... Make sure that you have selected a suitable location in which to place it. This location should receive either window sunlight (from no more than 2 feet away), ... or you will have to provide additional fluorescent lighting. CFL's in desk-lamps work just fine for this. Also, this location should be relatively free of drafts (either warm or chilly). Your AV will need a fairly steady temperature to grow best. 2) Check your water provider to see if they use Chloramine in their water processing. If they do, your tap water will eventually kill your plant. You will have to find a suitable water source. Spring water purchased from your grocery will work well. When you have selected your AV and brought it home, please note the following care issues ... 1) ONLY water the plant ... when the surface of the soil is fairly dry. More AV's die of over-watering, than from any other cause. 2) Make sure that the plant gets adequate window light, ... or fluorescent light for 10-12 hours/day. 3) Make sure that the pot the plant is growing in has DRAINAGE HOLES. If there is any allowance of your plant to sit in water which has collected at the base of the pot, ... your plants roots will rot ... and the plant will follow shortly. 4) Place the pot in a plant saucer, ... to catch excess water during the watering process. Make sure that any water sitting in the saucer is discarded shortly after watering. 5) Eventually, you will want to find a fertilizer for the plant, though I would hold off on fertilizing until you are sure that the plant has adjusted to your environment (approx. 1-2 months). You will want to find a fertilizer specifically formulated for African Violets (some growers report good results with Orchid fertilizers, as well). Be careful not to over-fertilize. To some extent, ... LESS is always better than MORE. And be sure to continue to frequent the Gardenweb African Violet forum, as we discuss these issues all the time. You will be sure to pick up valuable guidance here.