I don't know who manufactured your fibercement siding, but it is definitely NOT installed according to The James Hardy rules/guidelines, and as such it would not be warranted by the manufacturer. 1) the siding has to be 2" above the shingle /roof line, to avoid being damaged as your is, by the splashing of water. 2) at the bay corner, the flashing allows the water to drip down the corner. I could have flashed this a bit differently to divert the water from the corner, but the real solution has to be a gutter or collector at that point. The detailing makes the difference. Fibercement products will not stand being constantly splashed or having water flow over like you have. Casey

I usually use a sawzall with a long blade and cut the nails between the fascia and rafter tails. Start et one end of the fascia and after cutting the first few rafters run a screw in to hold everything in place (not tight, just to hold up the fascia temporarily). When you get near the other end, put a second screw in, then cut all the fasteners to the end. Two ladders and a helper remove the two screws and carry the board down. It beats dropping it on the plantings, having it fall on you or twist you off the ladder, and prevents damage to the rafter tails from ripping out fasteners as the fascia falls loose. If I have to handle it alone, I cut the fascia into pieces as I remove the fasteners.

I hope this works awm. As I noted, we're in the midst of some major landscape reno. The county is finally putting in sidewalks so our street is a construction zone! We took advantage of that to redo drainage and put in new hardscaping and landscaping. Today, in fact, we're hoping to make some serious headway into getting the footings for the wrought iron and stone fence put in and the lamp post relocated. We're also going to put in an outdoor electrical receptacle so I can finally have a dedicated line for my fountain and christmas lights instead of running an extension cord from the garage! We will be repainting so the house color will change. We're not committed to the brick facade either, but that won't be for at least a year before that changes out.

I never seen anyone do it, because the roof is new, or still has years to go, or if time for replacement, homeowners would just replace entire roof. That said, you can do it just use the right paint intended for roof shingles or you will have problems if wrong paint is used. Contact roof manufacturer and ask what they recommend, most likely it will be a water based paint because it allows moisture to escape.