Amaryllis not blooming 2 years after repotting
dirtygardener
2 years ago
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dirtygardener
2 years agoRelated Discussions
First amaryllis in many years, Part 2
Comments (5)Growing inside, I had the best luck with a southern exposure... but an east window will do. As luck would have it, I don't have a nice southern window here... it's shaded by huge Sycamore trees. My large Minerva seems to love the east facing window, however, and blooms very nicely there. Not to upstage Rebecca, but... Instead of keeping the soil moist, I would suggest allowing it to dry out fairly well in between waterings. It's that constant moisture around the root ball that causes the eventual rotting of the roots and bulb. Roots that are constantly wet will die, and those dead roots can rot. Rot can spread quite quickly from the roots to the actual bulb. And because there is no garden-like balance of good and bad bacteria, fungi, and microscopic organisms, the balance can quickly lean toward the bad, and rotten bulbs are the result. Container gardening is worlds away from growing in a garden... huge differences! Let's not forget that the bulb, itself, is a reservoir for moisture, so it will not begin to wilt and die if the soil is not kept consistently moist. Plants take in water in vapor form, and soil that feels almost dry to our sense of touch may still actually have a good amount of moisture in it, in vapor form. In my experience, it's better to treat Hippeastrum bulbs closer to how you would treat a succulent... allowing the medium to dry out fairly well before thoroughly watering again. Of course, if you're using a very fast and free-draining, gritty type of aerated medium, watering more frequently would not be detrimental. I'd go with a different fertilizer regimen, myself. There's no need for a fertilizer with larger amounts of P than N. If my reading is correct, I believe it is not necessary. What is necessary, though, is making sure your plants have a decent supply of micro-nutrients, and making sure the fertilizers you choose are instantly accessible to the roots for uptake. There is a wealth of educational information over at the Container Gardening Forum... they constantly discuss mediums, fertilizer programs, and most important, the WHY and HOW of all that happens within the confines of a pot. Excellent reading! When you get to the point where you have your photographs uploaded and stored online, let us know... from there, it's fairly easy to post them....See MoreMy 1 1/2 years Adenium Bloom from after surviving CYCLONE PAM
Comments (7)I planted these adenium from seeds, obtain the seeds on ebay on august 2013, planted them on September 2013 on seedling trays. Am no expert In these plants but I've learnt a lot from them. Cyclone Pam was a very devastating, leaving 80% homeless in the capital and other islands of Vanuatu. After trying so hard to make thee seedlings bloom, a cyclone made a trick, I can see other seedlings putting flower pads now, hope to see different colours too.....:D ....this are seedlings before the Cyclone, ready for transplanting into the Group....See MoreMealybugs on Phal - Repot asap or after blooms fall?
Comments (11)Heather, Here's the dilemma we get into. you say the flowers are "bright green with pink centers". The photo shows yellow flowers with dark "pink" lips. (centers) I am concerned about the amount of light the plant is getting, because I see photos of lush green leaves. My limited knowledge of photography tells me that if the blooms are indeed green, then on the web the color has been shifted to yellow, and that means that the real color of the leaves has been altered also. So, I wonder if I can really say that the plant needs a bit more light?? Your west window is ok. Recommended in order are south, east, west, and north. The plant looks really ok....healthy, although M A Y B E a bit lacking in light. If the bugs prove to have lost this war...not just the battle.....that will be great. You M A Y want to adjust your growing conditions a bit in the future. If your friends come back, then I let me repeat that - I - would unpot the thing blooms and all, soak as much of the plant as possible in a contact insecticide and repot it. After it has had a chance to settle into the new home and heal the damaged roots, I would follow up with more contact insecticide plus begin a systemic routine for several rounds, then wait and see. That would be my approach if it were my plant.....I'm not recommending that, nor saying that is the only way to attack this problem. Like I said, I'm a "Kill em dead right now" kind of person, and don't have a great deal of faith in some of these other methods out there that require one to do a hunt and kill routine. I learned in a large commercial greenhouse environment, and sometimes radical treatment was necessary to save many $$$$$$$. We usually began with the radical treatment for that reason. Good luck Bill...See MoreNew leaves after amaryllis is done blooming?
Comments (2)hi- I'll take a stab at answering even though I am new to amaryllis growing :). The leaves coming out after the blooming is normal. The leaves are what produce energy for the bulb so it doesn't shrivel up. Once the leaves are out you will need to water a little more frequently than you did when there were no leaves. These plants are also heavy feeders and need to be fertilized. Also, the second scape is normal, especially if you had a big bulb from a store. I've had 2-3 scapes per bulb that I bought from the store. Not sure if my bulbs will repeat this performance next year when I am the one taking care of them :) Be sure to put your plant where it can get enough sunlight indoors and then outside in the spring/summer if you'd like. Some people also grow them exclusively indoors if it is a rare bulb and you have a good sunny location. In the fall is when you can force your bulb to go dormant by reducing watering - some people cut off the leaves at this time, others don't. You can search on this forum for different ways! Good luck with your growing - sounds like you're treating it right because most of my bulbs have not grown leaves yet!...See Morejstropic (10a)
2 years agodirtygardener
2 years agopetrushka (7b)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agopetrushka (7b)
2 years agoBrian Sakamoto (10a, CA, USA)
2 years agodirtygardener
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agopetrushka (7b)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agodirtygardener
2 years agopetrushka (7b)
2 years agodirtygardener
2 years ago
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bea (zone 9a -Jax area)