How to DIY temporary fence in loose wet soil
kelli_ga
2 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (15)
kelli_ga
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Schefflera actinophylla loosing healthy green leaves
Comments (17)Plants and the conditions they grow in are both dynamic, so something ALWAYS changes. Nothing stays the same, even from one day to the next. Your plant is wilting because the remaining roots that still function are unable to move enough water to the top of the plant to sustain the canopy. As a consequence, the plant responds by shedding what it can't support. Unfortunately, the shedding process can't be reversed, and there is no way to determine how far along it is on a leaf by leaf basis. Lots of people bring me plants to rehab. If I had your plant to work on, I would reduce both trunks by about half (making sure there were at least 2-3 green leaves on each trunk. I'd rinse ALL the old soil off and prune ALL rotted roots back to healthy tissue, then dust the roots with flowers of sulfur and pot into a soil that ensures you won't have this problem all over again. Soil choice and a hand too heavy on the watering can is what brought you to this point. Adding even a large measure of perlite to what you're presently using won't get you to the point where you should be when it comes to soils. Your soil is appropriate if you can water it to beyond the point of saturation, so you're flushing accumulating salts out of the soil when you water, without having to worry about what you just discovered - root rot and a prolonged period of depressed root function that forces you into revival mode if you want to save the plant. If you can't water to beyond saturation w/o worrying, there is no question your plant is dealing with significant limitations stemming from soil choice. Understanding how water behaves in soils and its effects on root health, and by extension the health of the entire organism, is probably the largest step forward a container gardener can take at any one time. If you're interested in more guidance, let me know and I'll help you through it. Al...See MoreTree for Wet Area
Comments (9)Welcome aboard! Taxodium, bald cypress will stand water and is reasonably polite. May get knees being right at the water and that may or may not bother you're mowing. Neat fall color. slightly different shape for here. Seem as wind resistant as anything given their shape. Metasequoia, dawn redwood, may tolerate being in water. Worth an experiment with a $20 mail order tree. Neat story. I like the foliage more than bald cypress and the fall color more. Does not get knees. You can prune the lower branches to achieve the smooth trunk effect or leave them on to get a cool gnarly fluted trunk. Other thoughts.. ..Nyssa sylvatica, called black gum here and a different name in every zip code. Difficult transplant but very polite tree and EXCELLENT non cookie cutter fall color. Acer rubrum, red maple cultivars. Some places they call it swamp maple. Oh! Nyssa aquatica if your climate is mild enough for it. Another southern swamp classic. How about a pic of your area before I get size inappropriate. During the wet years after I first moved in I went Metasequoia, Acer Rubrum, Nyssa Sylvatica across the low spot in my front yard. Last few years have been more dry but I know life goes in cycles so they'll tolerate it when the mushy yard springs return....See MoreHow many days chili plant can survive in wet soil!
Comments (17)you have to understand, tomato cages are not used where i live (croatia), you can't buy them, and making them would cost loads. and honestly, i don't see the point, except for tomatoes grown in containers (which is very very rare here). there are a myriad of simpler solutions, people here sometimes emulate the greenhouse system of tying, by putting in the ground two concrete poles on the opposite sides of the tomato row (we use them in vineyards to attach wire too) and string the wire between them at about 2 m high. then attach a single lead for each plant to that wire and the ground beside the plant. then as the tomato grows just wrap it around the lead, it ends up supporting itself no matter how big or heavy it gets. the thing is, i plant more of them so if a couple die, or get diseased i just don't care. also, i plant a lot of varieties and am not OCD about taking care of them. as i said, some just sprawl around, and i'm happy even if i pick a bit less fruit from them than if i was fussing over every detail and stressing out ( i have chillies for that lol ). i was just explaining this to my mother the other day, she was freaked out by some of the sprawling ones touching the ground : "oooomg why are they down there, you know they'll get diseased! and you didn't prune them, birds will fall from the sky when they fly over your tomatoes! no they won't, over the years i've realized tomatoes are much stronger than we give them credit for, leaving them the hell alone to do their thing is the best fertilizer in the world (as a member on another pepper forum said when i posted the above chilli pictures haha). to get back to tying them up, there is also this tunnel system used here occasionally, which may or may not have netting put over the top of that center line, again relatively simple and effective. about selling produce, i don't sell, would you believe? i cook a LOT of paste and sauces, and interestingly how ever much i make i always run out before the next season's harvest. relatives and friends have gotten used to the "tasty paste" and snag it all away haha. the thing is, here most people are still growing oxhearts (if they are growing anything at all, the "grow your own food" movement hasn't really caught on yet, especially among my generation - under 30), and simple red cherries were considered exotic not that long ago. so when i cook or give away a rainbow of colors from my 30ish varieties it makes quite a bang. about space, i have what would translate to 3.7 acres of land around my house, most of it just empty with some fruit trees and stuff. but planting all that in tomatoes would be insane of course, so i think of it as unlimited space but limited gardener time and energy :D anyhow, to sum this way longer than needed post up, i think one has to decide where their priorities are, and cross reference that with available nerve and happiness amounts. in the middle is what you do to your plants :)...See MoreStarting new lawn with seeds. How dense should the soil be?
Comments (9)Yes, we can see you are inexperienced, but that's okay. It might be worse to come in as I did thinking I knew it all and being dead wrong about most of it. We need to know where you live to know what kind of seed you need. Some seed must be done in the hottest time of year and the rest should (must) be done in the fall. You rototilled it, right? That was a mistake. If you can walk on it to make it sort of level, do that. It needs to be very firm to do anything. When you get it sort of level, then find something to drag behind you to help level it. I've used a piece of chain link fence with some boards on it for weight. Then water it deeply once. Watch for low spots where the water collects. You want to fill those later after the soil dries enough. Let that dry out completely (need to know where you live again), water it deeply again and let it dry. The idea is to get the soil to start building a structure that you can walk on without sinking in at all. It should so firm that you cannot see foot prints at all when you walk on it. Part of the problem is the buried organic matter. That stuff will completely disappear as the microbes in the soil process it. As it disappears it robs nitrogen from around the soil and leaves voids that will result in lowering the surface. This is going to be a bumpy surface for several years, but it can be leveled later on. The other thing is the manure will stink for the next few weeks. Never use manure in your garden. Ever. If you buy manure, pile it up, cover it with dry leaves to block the smell, and let it compost. Eventually it will become very nice smelling compost....See Morekelli_ga
2 years agokelli_ga
2 years agokelli_ga
2 years agokayozzy
2 years agosuedonim75
2 years ago
Related Stories
GARDENING GUIDESHouzz TV: Make a Worm Bin for Rich Soil and Happy Plants
A worm-powered compost bin that can fit under a sink turns food scraps into a powerful amendment for your garden. Here’s how to make one
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGreat Garden Combo: 6 Beautiful Plants for a Shady, Wet Site
Transform a shade garden with moisture-loving golden grasses, textural leaves and a sprinkling of flowers
Full StoryFENCES AND GATESHow to Install a Wood Fence
Gain privacy and separate areas with one of the most economical fencing choices: stained, painted or untreated wood
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGNFlood-Tolerant Native Trees for Soggy Soil
Swampy sites, floodplains, even standing water ... if you've got a soggy landscape, these trees are for you
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESHow to Stop Worrying and Start Loving Clay Soil
Clay has many more benefits than you might imagine
Full StoryDIY PROJECTSQuick DIY Project: 3 Ways to Show Off Your Succulents
Create a simple yet lush vignette with a few plants and some everyday items
Full StoryMOST POPULARSpring Patio Spiff-Ups: 12 Doable DIY Projects for Your Outdoor Space
Prettify your porch or patio with these time-sensitive decorating boosts you can do yourself
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNShow Us Your Fabulous DIY Kitchen
Did you do a great job when you did it yourself? We want to see and hear about it
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGet the Dirt on Your Garden’s Soil
Understand how your soil supports your plants so you can ensure your garden’s success
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGNGarden Walls: Mortared Stone Adds Structure, Style and Permanence
Learn the pros and cons of using wet-laid stone walls in your landscape
Full Story
kelli_gaOriginal Author