Oh, my, that's an itty bitty pantry . . . I think you'll be lucky to get all your regularly used non-perishable foods in there, and so I wouldn't try to put appliances there. Given how limited your space is, I'd go with Roll Out Trays to maximize your storage. Even though they add expense, I think it'd be worthwhile in that space. I'd do custom-sized roll out trays (manufacturers come up pretty quick via google, but I can't vouch for any in particular, but I'm sure someone here will give you a good lead.) It looks to me like you can get them custom made at your exact width (and your exact depth up to 26"), with full extension glides, for somewhere under $70-100 per tray. I'd just spend what it took and get them all made. Assuming 8 ft ceilings, I'd do trays about every 12" (varying from 10 - 16") top to bottom, on both sides of the L. You might save a little $ by going with 3/4 extension glides if you are going maximum depth, since they wouldn't be able to extend all the way anyhow with you standing in there, too. . . Here's one idea.

Good luck! BTW, is the exterior door 36" including trim? 30" with 3" trim? If 36", and the trim wasn't included in their plan, the cabinets between the range and fridge could be reduced to 24" upper and 27" base.. Also, I just remembered that, in your previous thread, we discussed moving the DW to the left side of the sink, if the door on the right didn't open to the DR. Since it's to the exterior, I'd tell them to flip the DW. If you choose the 42" drawer base, it would be close enough to the range for storage of large pots. And, if groceries are being brought in that door, you have a nice landing space on the island, as lisa_a had suggested. Another thought--if there is space between the cabinets and the door trim on the left, you might consider pulling the bottom cabinets on the sink run out to 27". That would give you another 3" of counter and landing space in front of the tall cabinets, and if you can have bases custom made, they could have deeper drawers. GW discussions--deeper counters More links on google

I don't think you have enough space to do what you want, and 30" (40" - 10" shelves) seems very narrow for a pantry that length. Imagine carrying bags of groceries along that passage, then bending down to pick up items and place them on shelves. Do you have a tall piece of furniture that you can pull 30" from the wall, so that you can see if 30" is comfortable? I'd suggest bumping out the pantry wall about 3', then making the pantry 48" deep. If you eliminate the short leg of the L and the bar between the kitchen and LR, you can have a longer island. The bar, and a coffee center, could be incorporated into the cabinets under the window, with an optional 18" sink. The sink could also be used as extra prep space if you have helpers. Click to enlarge: If you'd prefer that the fridge is closer to the LR, it can be placed against the pantry door, and the range centered, but the island layout would need to be flipped, too. I drew an in-swing pantry door, which will keep the aisle clear if you leave the door open while prepping and cooking. You didn't mention wall ovens, but they could be subbed for one of the tall cabinets on the window wall. In that case the prep/bar sink could be placed off center, and the counter used for baking prep. Can the front bump-out be moved in 18" to help compensate for the space in the back? Maybe someone else will have a better plan, but I agree with StephE--a KD might give you more options.

@Sena01, yes that type of storage is exactly what I was thinking about for cookie sheets, but do you happen to have a vertical dimension for any of them? I wanted to see if I could fit them under the wall oven without its being too high. The mixer lift…I think probably not; it’s not that big a deal for me to lift it up on the island, as long as I have a cabinet there to store it in. If I add up all the numbers on the south wall, I get 209, at least if I added correctly. There are a couple of places where I sort of randomly put in 2” (like around the fridge) because I wasn’t sure if those sidewalls would need extra reinforcing. @Joseph Babcock, you are probably right about the position of the sink, but I really dislike them in islands (I know this is a personal foible.) plus I truly use all the available space on the island when I am baking, especially Christmas cookies and I can see the back yard from the sink’s current position.. When the oven door is down & I’m taking something out of the oven, I just have to pívot to my left and the island is right there for hot things. Same applies to the microwave, situated above the oven. Since the front door is on the same side of the house as the garage door/back hall and we have no young children at home, that “back” opening to the kitchen only gets used when Mike and I are bringing in groceries, but I can see how it might be a problem if more people lived here. @Patricia Colwell Consulting: thank you for your advice. I did not realize that Houzzers such as yourself would think that my previous specific questions on lighting placement and vent adaptation to a vaulted ceiling would be considered as the same subject as the oven height and cabinet layout, although you are certainly correct in that it is the same kitchen. My apologies. I perhaps erroneously assumed that the title of the former posts would prevent anyone from reading a separate question further down in the comments. I created the drawings posted, not a cabinet designer, so if you want to blame someone for faulty design, please feel free to blame me. This is only the second time in my life that I have done it. I realize that some people prefer their spices in drawers; I prefer mine at eye level in an upper cabinet. I used to have my oils in a narrow upper cabinet by the cooktop, but with the larger hood, I’m not sure that’s possible; I’ll look again. I think I allowed 4” between the hood & upper cabinets, but I would have liked 2”. I’m not sure how narrow cabinets or drawers can be before they look “off”. As it is, the difference in height between the uppers and lowers seems off-balance me, although that seems to be the style. The space in the middle of the kitchen has worked well for me when I have had multiple people cooking or setting out, as in community Christmas cookie baking and potluck dinners. I would probably feel differently were I the only cook in the kitchen or if I had’t lived with U-shaped kitchens most of my life. I thought I had drawn mostly drawers on the lowers, but perhaps that wasn’t clear or I got confused at the end about how many drawers versus cabinets to have. I need at least a couple of lower cabinets for the tall stand mixer, iced tea jar, and tall dry dog food containers. And maybe for the slow cooker and the tall stock pot? The induction cooktop specified no drawers under it…seemed weird to me. I don’t know if I drew the drawer under the oven tall enough for cookie sheets (14 x 17) but I know that I want the oven high enough so that I don’t have to bend over for the middle rack. Finally, although you are undoubtedly right about the wisdom of hiring a kitchen designer, between the contractor charging triple what insurance allows, having had to replace my car (totaled by Ian’s flooding) and a failed (but unfortunately very expensive) contract with a designer—not a cabinet salesperson, by the way—I don’t feel that I can risk any more. Right now, we have just gotten drywall. I need to come up with a kitchen plan because even if I turn it in tomorrow, we won’t get it until mid-June. I understand that what I end up with may not be a kitchen designer’s ideal, but I am working under constraints—on a slab that local plumbers have advised not to rip up for plumbing changes, with a basic layout that should its footprint change much would involve ripping out and replacing the tile throughout most of the open-plan house, and I’m trying to get back in our house before the next hurricane season starts at the end of June. Any help in doing that is much appreciated.