We have had similar problems with our single dish drawer - it is currently working after a few kluge fixes by me, but it beeps and cycles through all the settings when it is opened, and it leaks a bit - plus the rinse aid doesn't really work at all. Our only hope is using a good detergent like Cascade Complete. At least it doesn't start up on its own or cycle on/off like it did in the last few years. I have taken it completely apart a few times (thanks to Dadoes) and have kept it limping along. If I had to choose another dishwasher I would go with Bosch. However, I think Miele would be good choice as well. We are going to be selling our current home soon, so I will probably just buy a brand new F&P drawer before listing the home. Our new home will not have any F&P appliances at all.

I have the F&P DD24DCHTX6, it has a tall drawer on top and a regular one on the bottom. I think it's great; no splashing, no open door to block traffic or bash in your shins again. Like Bireland it took awhile to learn how to load it. Unlike Bmorepanic I've found the cleaning to be great. Some things are much cleaner than ever before. Tea strainers etc. very nice. Coffee and tea stains never on mugs anymore. Tired old wineglasses so sparkly. For the first little while I tested it daily with incrementally cruddy pots and plates and it always got them clean. Like Kimkitchy, if I could do it over again I would put a single drawer on either side of the sink. I love not having to bend over at all to load or unload the top drawer which I use most of the time. I live alone but I cook & bake all the time and there are always lots of dishes. If I could do one on either side of the sink I'd select a tall single and a regular one and put pot drawers underneath them. Others have mentioned how useful the 2nd drawer is for loading when the first one is already full or running. I do that as well but also love it for a drain-board for hand-washed items. No stupid ugly rack on the countertop. With regard to the noise I think they are very quiet and friends have commented on just how quiet. There is some sound but it's not annoying at all. Silly to admit but I wait until bedtime to put them on because then, when the house is completely quiet, you can hear them and I like the lulling swishing as I drift off to sleep.

UPDATE After reading comments here, I thought it worth my while to read the service manual cover to cover. Enduring's suggestion to see if there was an error code displayed lead me to try reprogramming the top drawer to turn on when the drawer was opened (like the bottom drawer would do). In trying to do this, I discovered that I couldn't; I also read in the manual that there were two separate circuit panels (duh, one for each drawer). Since the top drawer wasn't responding to re-programming, I felt the circuit panel was bad. So when the F/P serviceman showed up this morning, I told him this; he also tried to program the top drawer and was unsuccessful. He ended up replacing the circuit panel in the top drawer and was able to get it to work. He stated the circuit panel was weak and that's what was causing the problem with the top drawer turning on, but not starting. He ran a rinse cycle and everything worked like it should (Houston we have lift-off!) No sooner did he leave, I ran a fast cycle and so happy with the result- sparkling, clean dishes. Thanks one and all for your support and help! PS I did buy the service contract with Sears; just for peace of mind...PQ

dadoes, Thank you for the response. One clarification. So if your cabinet doors and drawers are the style that overlap the cabinets then I guess the top drawer doesn't match the rest of your drawers if you leave the space. I just have seen a lot of pictures and have not noticed a space at the top. I think there is likely a little room for adjustment when attaching the panels, but I am trying to be as exact as I can be. With regard to the toe kick, I think it is made of plastic and could be trimmed more on my existing dishwasher in order to avoid the hitting of the floor. You are probably right that it is not quite level as well. I notice on the new models when I was calculating the size of the drawer fronts, there is a measurement for a toe kick that you can order when you order your panels. Or maybe the panel ready models don't come with the plastic toe kick and it is something they assume you will order along with your drawer panels. Seems that the point of getting a panel-ready model is to match the cabinets and so I am trying to determine with the information available how best to do that. Seems like there are a lot of unknowns and things could be better explained in the manuals. Again I do appreciate your reply.