Are you limiting the search to around $800 for the pair or the washer only? The requirements you list would lead the traditional agitator top loading washing machines to the front of the list. Traditional top loaders will typically have fewer cycles, but it sounds like you use the basic Regular and Permanent Press cycles for the most part anyway. Front loaders are usually much quieter during the wash cycle, but the high spin speed makes them much more susceptible to vibration. (Especially on the 2nd floor.) (Especially, especially on pedestals). I've never known an owner of a front loader that didn't battle door mold unless the door was left open between uses. There are LOTS of front loader owners here and I'm sure they'll chime in if they're able to leave the door closed without mold issues. I have a Speed Queen washer (AWN542) and dryer (ADG4BR) I like very much. I've had them less than a year, so it's too early to judge their long term reliability. They do have a 3-year "bumper to bumper" warranty. They have a 5-year warranty on the cabinet and motor, a 10-year warranty on the transmission, and a lifetime warranty on the stainless tub and outer tub. They are decidedly old school, so they're not for everyone. The Speed Queen top loading washers and dryers don't have computer boards. They're probably the last quality manufacturer to use electromechanical timers to control the cycles. They use all metal gears in the transmission. I'm amazed how well balanced they spin, even with very small loads. Water in my area isn't especially expensive, scarce, or hard. Using a good quality detergent, my results are excellent. Like you, most of my wash loads are cottons and poly/cottons. I have gas water heater and a gas dryer, so they're quite economical to operate. The GardenWeb forum is heavily tilted toward front loading washers, especially the high end ones. That's understandable. Some of them have quite amazing technology and features. At the high end, front loaders command big price. I'm particular about getting clean clothes, especially whites, but for the most part, I just want a solid machine that will last 20 years. There are more exciting things for me to spend money on. There is a forum at automaticwasher.org that tilts a bit more toward top loaders. There's a guy who even posts videos of his Speed Queen wash cycles. I included the link to one below. Here is a link that might be useful: Speed Queen wash cycle video

This topic was from January and curious what the OP did about the appliances. Thought I would post of my recent dilemma with appliances. We just did a makeover with no concrete plans with what to do with the bisque appliances. Fridge was only 4 years old and HATED that thing. Struggled at the time as to bisques or black, but the bisque looked better with my old color scheme. There was an air pressure issue when you closed the fridge the freezer door would pop open and lots of time would be slightly open without us realizing it. It also had an interior water dispenser (never used it) that took up so much space you had to bend all the way down to get things from the top shelf. As another person mentioned it was slightly oversized in the space and hard to move it. The range had to go as it was 25 years old though I liked the combo of black and bisque but the oven irregular and the chrome trim rusting. The black GE dw was also trimmed out in chrome so had to go. As someone else mentioned, as you go along the old appliances really stand out like a sore thumb. I was very fortunate to get $75 for the range on Craigs List and $420 for the fridge. A guy bought it for the lunch room of his business. Also sold the above the range microwave on CL for $60 and took $40 for it as the guy was kind enough to offer to remove it for us which we couldn't do after firing the contractor helping with the kitchen. So now I have all new black appliances and they are proving to be a pain in the neck. I read so much about SS being hard to clean that I didn't even consider them and now wish I had taken my time. The stove is gas with 5 burners and continuous grates that weight a ton, and one spatter can cause 15 minutes of wiping. I do like the grates as extra space to set things after cooking, good for cookie sheets and larger hot items. Also got a new black microwave which was a struggle as they all looked so cheap but do like the one I chose (Kenmore like the stove) but it scratches if a paper towel is used. I now only use microfiber cloths on the appliances. One to clean and one to dry. I LOVE my new Maytag fridge as doors and freezer snap tightly closed, it is a little smaller and perfect set up inside for just DH and myself. Also loving my new Maytag dw that you can barely hear and nice stainless interior and better rack design than my old GE. Bottom line is I also like bisque appliances and almost wish I would have been able to use them again. My old appliances were a mix of black of bisque which is the best of both worlds and black does look good with my new color scheme. Also completely agree, they don't make things like they used to! And off topic, I can't wait for the day to replace my "new" HE Maytag Bravos washer!!!! My laundry does not smell fresh, everything tangles and wrinkles and I regret the day I got rid of my 28 year old Whirlpool washer on a whim as thought it was "old."

The rollers are easily replaced and can be done by the installer while he's there. You can replace most of them yourself, however the two that are at the very bottom, closest to the floor are very dangerous if you do it. Best to leave this up to a professional. Buy the rollers, put them all in except the two bottom ones, and ask the installer to install those for you. It will take him about one minute to do both. A cup of coffee while he's installing the GDO should about do it. If your not technically inclined then just have him do it when he's there. Unless he is a trained door technician, he wont know how to do it safely so if your getting a local handyman to install your GDO, then don't ask him to do it. Whats the difference between the openers? Chamberlain is the worlds largest manufacturer of residential garage door openers. They make units for Sears and then puts Sears Craftsman on the cover. They sell units under their own name of Chamberlain at retail places such as HD. They make a professional series of openers called Liftmaster and sell them to the door companys. These always have solid T rails as oposed to segmented tubes such as you would buy at a retail store. If you have a really tight head-room situation , the Liftmaster can be squeezed into a much smaller space above the door because it still uses a T rail. The carriage assembly slides along the bottom of the T rail and doesnt touch the ceiling. The Chamberlain and Sears machines use a square tube that the carriage assembly wraps completely around. This means that the carriage assembly would scrape the drywall on the ceiling if it was used in a tight headroom situation. Which one is better? Sort of like asking, which is better, Chev or Pontiac. Same company. Really doesn't matter, they are all great. Regarding Warrantys. LIFE TIME WARRANTY ON THE MOTOR. That means exactly that, just the motor. Motors NEVER wear out. Thats why they put a lifetime warranty on it, cause they never wear out. All the other components in the unit, such as Logic Board, capacitor, nylon gears, all have a one year warranty. So, If the garage door opener doesn't crap out on you in the first year of operation, chances are, it will go up and down like a yo-you for the next 10-12 years with nobody ever having to touch it.

Dehumidify mode on a central- or mini-split air conditioning system generally means that the blower is slowed and the coils are maintained at a very low temperature. That biases the system to removal of moisture over cooling, but it still cools. In a normal cooling mode, the system will typically reduce temperature and humidity somewhat contemporaneously depending on how the system is set up. I have not seen window units with dehumidify feature like this. A manual J calculation would be nice, but, I think, a poster here pointed out that with old construction, the manual J typically supplies an hypothesis that is tested with new equipment install. I think that the OP has already done the experiment to show that 6000 is too small, 10,000 is too big and 8,000 would be just right. OP should check humidity by buying a couple of inexpensive hygrometers (so they can be checked against each other for continuing accuracy) or a hygrometer and a sling psychrometer. If humidity runs below 50%, most of the time, there is no urgent reason to run out and buy a smaller window unit. The best size unit will yield a little more efficiency and a little less humidity, On window units that I've seen, the "energy saver" mode turns off the blower between cycles so the condensate drains off more than re-evaporates. You will get better humid control that way, but the raw cooling efficiency as measured by standard method takes a hit. I'd go for lower humidity. In my opinion, the best way to operate, unless you are in a very desiccated environment, is in energy saver mode, and to turn down the blower speed when it starts cycling. Maybe, however, the controls have become good enough to do that speed reduction automatically. Traditional window units have one blower motor for inside and outside blowers. Unfortunately, that means a hit on efficiency because you would be often better off with a higher outdoor blower speed. Maybe they are using two blower motors on them now. On balance, I'd go for the comfort and health benefits of lower humidity indoors under those circumstances.