Linda - look at the link below for The Library Store. Once there, enter the word pouches in the Search box. Scroll down to the 'heat seal pouches.' If you are specifically looking for driver's license size, they have them. They have other sizes,too. Note that the 'hard' laminate is usually the 5 mil. lamination. And these do require a heat machine. It MAY be possible to seal them using an iron (they come with a foil wrap that you use over and over), but I haven't tried it. I'm sure there are many other sources. This will just get you headed in the right direction. I have also seen some of the small ones in office supply stores. Here is a link that might be useful: The Library Store

The "good ones". That is to say anything from Europe (Germany, Switzerland, Austria, etc) that can be as expensive as $4/sf. I also like to see HIGH end underlayment such as 6mm cork underlay used with laminate. The 6mm cork underlay can make a $0.79/sf laminate feel like a "solid" floor. Other than that...stay away from laminates in kitchens. Your inspiration photo would indicate you would like to use the product in a kitchen.

A floating floor is a floor that is not anchored to the subfloor (gravity holds it in place). A floating floor must have an expansion gap around the whole room. That means there will be a nice, big fat gap at each and every wall. The ideal expansion gap is the same thickness as the laminate. The laminate you show is 10mm thick. That means you must have 10mm gap at every single wall and a gap of 10mm on EITHER side of the door jam. Because this is a rental AND the existing floor is VERY WELL installed (baseboards appear to have been done properly) I do NOT suggest you install quarter round or shoe moulding. That means you will LEAVE the gap all the way around. This gap will fill up with crud. And then to add insult to injury you MUST use an underlayment product. Your product of choice has an integrated underpad which is most CERTAINLY plastic stuff. Even if it didn't have it, you would need an underpad to protect the existing floor. The underpad MUST NOT be plastic or vinyl or any product that will trap moisture. That means you need to work with 3mm cork underlay or Quietwalk fiber based product. Either of these products will add $$ cost to your project. But this point is moot because you have a laminate with plastic underlay = absolutely not allowed over an existing wood based floor. Ever. But why no 'plastic'? Because it will cause the moisture underneath the existing floor to catch on the bottom of the plastic and DRIP DOWN onto the existing floor. And you will be left with a fantastically moldy mess that you will be required to pay for. And considering the fact the existing floor is THROUGHOUT the house, you might be required to remove/replace the ENTIRE THING. Because a tenant must bring the home back to the ORIGINAL state. And that state includes an entire house covered in the SAME floor. Right. On to the transition strips that you will WANT to use at the doors...but will not be ALLOWED to use. Again a reducer (what the transition strip is called when moving from a 1/2" step down to 0" inch floor (like concrete or the existing flooring level). Why can't you use it? Because the transition must be ANCHORED. That is to say you would have to affix the transition to the EXISTING floor. IN doing so you risk (100% risk) of damaging the existing floor. That brings us back to leaving the house in the way you found it. And back to the issue of a floating floor over another floating floor - this is bad science. An unstable floor on top of an unstable floor. It would be like building with marbles. The warranty on BOTH floors is void (landlords love to hear these things...you might own them another floor if they find out about another floor sitting on top). In short: Don't do it. You will have one heck of an expensive 'project' on your hands when you move out. A white area rug would do MUCH better and would be MUCH cheaper.

Is this a high rise condo? I ask because high rises in my experience generally have concrete subfloors. In my experience the HOA in a high rise condo will have very specific sound abatement requirements so you should ask the management what the requirements are. The manager will also generally know what kind of floors are installed by residents. My building is a high rise with concrete floors and there are also specific rules governing noise and flooring as well as other things. Most people have engineered wood but there are people with other surfaces - e.g. tile, stone and a few with laminate. A good floor company will be familiar with the best sound abatement installation - FWIW I have wood with subfloor of cork and plywood.