The hand-held pictured is a Kholer Forte. Can it be used with a Moen valve? Thanks.

Hi Jo Ann, I just had a shower finished with a 14' deep bench. Plenty of room for me to stand on it while cleaning the walls :) I just can't imagine one reason why I'd sit on it..... Anyway, the advice I was given about a corner bench was to keep the construction closed vice open under the bench because it would be a mildew nook. I hope I explained that right. I have pictures posted of the shower bench on this forum, just search on my user name, it's labeled marble and subway tile shower pics or something like that. Maybe it will help you to have a visual of the depth. Good luck!

So we have the tile, the paint and the layout finished...but the question is now niches. Niche one will be visible upon entry to the bathroom, through a glass door and adjacent glass topper to a short pony wall. To the right is the outside shower wall that might clip the visible end of the niche. This niche will be installed in a newly studded area, covering a former bay window, so we have no restrictions on length and height. The niche floor will be granite, matching the counters and shower sill, with a glass mosaic back. The niche will be rectangular or square, the question is how big? It's primary use is decorative vs. storage. My gut says 3' long and 1' high, starting at about 4' from the shower floor, and 2' from the bench/non-shower head wall (because the bench is below that end for about 18" from the wall). Placing it there will visually clip the end, where using 1' from the bench wall will not cause a visual clip. The usable niches will be within the totally walled off area of the shower. One idea would be stacking three niches, the top two being 15" tall and 10" wide with the bottom being 6" tall and 10" wide. Optionally, we can compress the spacing a bit by having a single niche with granite shelves, total of 40" tall and 10" wide. Either would be located to the side of the shower head and controls, with the bottom about 30" off the floor. Alternate idea is split the niches left and right and divide each with a granite shelf, these niches being 22" tall and 10" wide, with the upper total size 15" and the lower being 7" minus the 3cm slab thinkness. This provides four usable niches, but may look a bit noisy/busy, However the bottom of the niches would be at about 42", and probaly more ergonomic. The tile guy would hate four separate niches, but he's getting paid to do whatever, so that's in play too...call it a 15x10 above a 6x10. Thoughts?

They should be pushed in more over the counter rather than the edge? No My lighting designer advised me to put my 6" disc LEDs centered over the edge of the counter. That way there are not shadows either on the counter as you work, or being cast onto the fronts of the lowers. Mine are spaced just about 4ft apart (center-center) and that was based on the specs for my particular lights (obtained from the manufacturer's website) and 8' ceiling, so that the "cone" or diameter of the light on the work surfaces overlapped just a bit - for even lighting. My kitchen is small, no island, so it only needed lights on two sides - the second side (with the frig and pantry, and a small cabinet with top for landing space and phone) I placed the lights away a tad more, to illuminate the cabinet interiors and center of the room more, as there isn't really a work surface on that side. I also have a small pendant over the sink, which is set in farther because I lean in farther when washing things. She also said to pay attention to whether an open cabinet upper door will block a light from illuminating the inside of the cabinet - you may have to adjust placement for that. Please do not worry about symmetry in your lighting layout! You won't be looking up at the lights to admire their symmetry, but you will notice uneven lighting!