Kitchen is 10x10, estimate $38,000.000
opchallenger
2 years ago
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KW PNW Z8
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Help: Small kitchen remodel - Granite/Oak
Comments (28)homebodyoasis, solid wood cabs are a nice thing to have. But did you know that you would gain more storage per cab with new cabs? I am replacing my 20 yr old oak cabs and I'm tickled at how much storage space I'm gaining with the same footprint; 3" more depth and width per drawer! In a small space, that would be value added. I'd rather do that and have laminate counters any day. But those are my priorities. I was all set to do a cosmetic update about 5 years ago but once I started looking at my kitchen with a critical eye, I decided to wait until we could afford to replace the cabs. Soooo glad I did. I can not wait to start my remodel. It will be worth the wait. (Our wait wasn't just for f1nancial reasons. We had family obligations arise during that time period and they took precedence.) Good luck with your remodel! Have you done a search for oak cabinets threads on this forum? Updating "golden" oak kitchens has been discussed multiple times so you're sure to find information you can use. Do a search via Google not the forum's search engine (it's rather useless). This post was edited by lisa_a on Mon, Jul 28, 14 at 16:47...See MoreCustom kichen cabinets estimate is way too high!
Comments (22)Like dcward89 above, with a similar sized kitchen, the only way we got to a number close to what you want was by getting Barker cabinets and installing them ourselves. I had a local cabinetmaker's finish person stain and finish the doors and drawer fronts (as a shop-sanctioned moonlighting job). Even with that and some extras (crown moulding, soft close drawers & doors) it ended up in the range you mentioned. Many urban areas also have affordable crews that will hire out to put together Ikea kitchens, which are similar enough in design that they could definitely put together Barker's cabinets. I second the idea of going to Barker's website and putting together your cabinet order. I did this over and over, making little changes each time, and it really paid off...my kitchen works just the way I wanted it to....See MoreROUGH estimate for mudroom/laundry remodel?
Comments (2)The moldings, bench, cabinets, and counter could probably be installed by the same carpenter (just make sure he's done laminate before - don't let your project be his guinea pig). The flooring by a tile guy. The painting by a third guy. And that's it. As long as he is not making the cabinets (just installing them), I'd say the carpentry work is maybe $2500. Painting the room, moldings, and bench should be under $1000. Maybe $700? Cost of your tile labor should be around $700 too, assuming the floor is not crazy out of level and you demolish the old floor yourselves. So say $5000 in labor to give you cushion, plus the cost of materials, which your choice of cheap vs. expensive tile, cheap vs. expensive paint, etc. would affect greatly. Since you are not moving plumbing or electrical and would have so few subs, this might be one you want to GC yourselves to save the money you would pay for project management. You could come in under $10,000 easy. Possibly more like $8,000....See MoreSmall Kitchen Layout Help
Comments (62)David, so you're still suggesting that Tasha go with shallower cabs than standard for the perimeter counter. Does Ikea offer a sink that will fit inside a 21.5" deep cab? I'm assuming the cabs will be pulled 1" forward from the wall to create a 24" deep counter. Or are you intending the counter overhang to be 2.5" not the standard 1.5"? As for the 11" counter top on the opposite wall, those cabs will need to be 9.5" deep to accommodate an 11" counter with standard counter overhang. Does Ikea offer cabs this shallow? Or are you suggesting that this be custom built? tasha, 35" may be doable even though it is less than NKBA recs for aisles for a one-cook kitchen (42"). Do a mock-up with cardboard boxes or whatever you can get your hands on to make sure this width is functional for you. You will definitely have some pinch points with the island placed as David suggests (see my drawing below). Yes, it is movable but how often will you have to move it in order to move about your kitchen? Definitely do a mock-up. Make sure you have hip room as well as foot room. In the meantime, here's my interpretation of David's suggestion, as best as I can understand it: Plan D (D as in David) I drew this up with a right hand door swing fridge, single door, 33" wide, 29" deep (possibly this Samsung). You can't do this plan with anything but a right hand door swing on a free-standing fridge, not if you want to be able to open the door wide enough to pull out fridge and freezer drawers. I spot a few issues right off the bat: Tight clearances between free-standing, CD fridge to island. The 35" aisle shrinks to 30". If the island isn't placed as shown, you'll need to watch that you don't hit the island when you open the fridge door. There's still no elbow room to the left of the sink. You need a shallower model of DW. David mentioned 2 brands above - Bosch and Miele. These aren't budget brands. An open DW door will collide with an open range door. Limited base storage (I made an executive decision to make the range wall cabs standard 24" deep). The range can also be a cook top with wall oven below but even then, the oven handles will protrude into the aisles a bit (this depends on the model you choose). I estimated the depth at 26". If your range is even deeper, you lose even more aisle room - or you'll need to shift the island more regularly to work. Tiny island with limited storage and no electrical outlets (needs to be a fixed island for that), which limits its usage, IMO. You'll also need to go with a sink that is shallower front to back or possibly off-set the faucet or do a wall-mounted faucet or else you might end up with a faucet wedgie (read what Kelly Morisseau, CMKBD and blogger at Kelly's Kitchen Sync has to say about faucet placement in her post, Faucet Tip #1) A solution to one of the above concerns is to go with a built-in fridge, which will gain you a few inches of aisle space. There are 24", 27" and 30" wide models, which would help you gain a wee bit more elbow room between fridge and sink. But you give up capacity. And they cost more money. For instance, the 24" wide Liebherr has a capacity of only 10 cu. ft and it costs $4299 at the above source. Is 10 cu. ft. enough space for you? (It wouldn't be for me. My KA CD fridge is twice the size and was less than half the price but it's also about 4" deeper and 12" wider so it wouldn't work in this situation). In addition to the above, you could also ditch the rolling island and opt for a fixed peninsula against the powder room wall (you'd need to extend the powder room wall to do this). You'd gain a longer stretch of counter (56"), you could add outlets, making it more functional, and you'd gain storage, which you could definitely use while you wait for Phase II. However, any time someone wants something from the fridge, they will need to pass the range. With the tight aisle clearances, this could be a real nuisance while you're cooking. I understand the reason for such a proposed plan - to create a pleasing view from the front door and front rooms - but there might be another way to address this. Add a door at the proposed arch between DR and kitchen/PR area. Make it a pocket door so it disappears from view when not needed. If you can break into the powder room/DR wall to add a pocket door there, you could even have a dual pocket door to create a 48" wide opening. Like this: It requires more structural work but as marcolo and others have pointed out, that might not be as expensive as you think. And adding this means that you won't need to stretch your appliance budget as much....See Moreherbflavor
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