I have two Earth Boxes with tomatoes in each. I used Pro-Mix (purchased from Home Deopt) in one and Jungle Growth (From Lowes) in the other. All four tomatoe plants (2 in each Earthbox) are doing well; however, I did not add any lime to either. Since the Pro-Mix contains lime, those tomatoes are showing no signs of blossom end rot. I have one cherry tomato and one Patio Hybrid in the other box, with the Jungle Growth with no added lime. The cherry tomato is just starting to put out tomatoes, but the patio hybrid is covered with big, green tomatoes. So far I've had to throw out about 10 or 12 of the patio tomatoes due to blossom end rot. I still have about 20 tomatoes on the bush, so I'm hoping to get a few good ones before it's all over. From now on, it's Pro-Mix for my Earth Box tomatoes, or added lime to the mix. BTW, I love the Earth Box for growing tomatoes. I found some plans for building home made boxes using five-gallon buckets and an planning to grow more tomatoes in the future in these self-watering boxes.

Anything with a large percentage of peat, will not last very long since the very fine particles clog pore spaces, compacts, and breaks down within a very short period of time, something I found all my previous palms despised. You said you couldn't locate Gran-I-Grit. Why? In the 5.1.1 mix, perlite is called for, and this is what I use for a 1 part. The Grit is for the gritty mix.. Let's just say I have palms growing it this 5.1.1 mix since I started using it when I first joined these forums, maybe two years or longer. I find they hate to be transplanted, so I just leave them alone in the good mix. If you want your soilless mix to last even longer, the gritty mix is the best way to go..I don't have any palms in this yet. Maybe someone else does though, and can tell you how their's is doing.. Mike.;-0)

Peat starts out at a very low pH and is adjusted upward by adding lime, which also supplies Ca and Mg. Coir starts at a pH that is already too high (around 7.0) for container media, leaving no chance for using lime as a Ca/Mg source. So what are you using that ensures your plants are getting the Ca and Mg they need, and how do you address the high pH issue that needs no attention with bark/peat-based soils? How do you know you're getting your coir/CHCs from a reputable packager? and that the solubles level isn't excessively high ..... until your plants are surviving or failing? Seems like an unnecessary risk to me. Lots of things become the rage when people don't understand the product well. It's only after they've been brought into the light that people start to say, "Hey wait a minute". Lots of people simply decided that coir (or CHC's) are a great idea based on the fact that THEY bought into the idea that peat is not renewable and they wanted to feel they made a wise choice in switching. Look at the impossible claims you hear about products like Superthrive, Eleanor's VF-11, Bloom-booster fertilizers ...... A few people repeat something they heard someone else say, and pretty soon it's an urban legend and touted as the best thing since sliced bagels. There are reasons commercial ops don't use significant amounts of coir and CHCs in media - cost, high levels of soluble salts (are common) and a pH too high to deal with w/o acidification of the irrigation water. "Isnt the point of drainage layer so there isnt a saturated layer at the bottom of the pot?" It may be your intent, but wishing it would work that way doesn't change physics - no matter how hard you wish. 'Drainage layers' do not promote drainage unless the particles in the drainage layer are no larger than 2.1x the size of the particles in the soil. If they are larger than that, water 'perches' in the soil above the 'drainage layer'. "If the styrofoam was rock I could understand the water perch idea." Rock or big chunks of foam make no difference. The water reacts the same way. "The op was asking about making containers lighter. Annuals and alot of plants dont need the 20+ gallon size of large containers for root colonizing. Why have a 100 pound pot if you dont have to. What would you suggest?" One of the best ways, from a scientific perspective, would be to upturn another (plastic) container inside of the one you're planting in and put a screen over the drain hole. Second best would be to insert a false bottom with a wick through it. You could also partially fill the container with soda bottles or milk jugs with screw-on caps. You CAN use chunks of foam or peanuts to reduce the amount of soil needed to fill a container, but these layers of material in the bottom of containers do nothing for drainage. Al

From left to right: Fafard 3B Fafard 3B 1 bag 3B + 1 bag pine bark fines 1 bag 3B + 1 bag pine bark fines 1 bag 3B + 2 bags of pine bark fines 1 bag 3B + 2 bags of pine bark fines 70% coconut coir + 30% perlite (I normally don't start any scotch bonnet pepper plants in the summer (it is too hot, buggy, and rainy) but this year thought I would give it a shot plus do more in the fall. They last longer than 1 season. We don't get freezes.) Here is just a sampling of some of them. Fafard 3B --great right out of the bag Actually had flowers and now fruit way ahead of others by 7 or 8 days. They have the greatest height and most dense foliage. One of the 4 plants I did with 2 to 1 ratio (PB to 3B) is just as tall and full but one is much shorter for some reason. I expect all of the extra pine bark component ones to do well. The 2 PB to 1 Fafard 3B ratio should be good over the long haul. (They also make a mix called Fafard 52 which I only was able to find once. It was 60% bark.) Fafard 3B is 45% peat and 30% pine bark (one site said 25 % pine bark). I am hoping this also will hold up well --I have used peat based mixes with no pine bark with good results so the pine bark should make it even better as the mix degrades. Coir is plugging along--not quite up to speed with the others but still doing OK. It is the final one of the group. The transplants seedlings I did in coir did awful. There are very good potting mixes on the market and pre mixed makes it super easy . Or buy your own ingredients and mix yourself--that can work equally as well too. Your choice. For many annuals like vegetables --longevity of the mix if you are dumping in raised bed after one season or not reusing is not all that crucial as long as the mix is well draining but nutrient retentive as well. L.O. Can you post pics of your vegetables in the gritty mix? How many times do you expect to reuse?