Hi Davidtay, Thanks for your reply. The depth of each locker is 25 inches and width is 25 inches too. The total dimensions of the mudroom, including the lockers, is 11 feet 5 inches deep and 9 feet 3.5 inches wide. (for the narrowest part). I think your idea to rough in lighting for the actual lockers is spot on. We will do that for sure. The cost to switch from roughed in pots to rough in for fixtures will only cost an hour of labour so not a big cost if fixtures would light the space better than the pots. Do you think fixtures would light the space better than pots (ceilings are 8 foot)? We are happy to use the Cree series if that works as well as fixtures. The current roughed in pots are 4 inch. Thanks! Carol

I found a few older thread discussing it. Don't mean to hi-jack the thread but I have a related question. I used several different contact liners in the past and cannot say I was thrilled with any of them. My concern is that any non-breathable liner may end up damaging the shelf/drawer surface b/c it cannot "breathe". That is why I am also interested in cork liners though regular liners are cheaper. Is it a silly concern? Here is a link that might be useful: Cork liner discussion

There was a thread on this topic some months ago--see below. There are some good photos of niches. Our project is bogged down, but I have a few additional comments since I posted... Because we have to watch our pennies, I'm shopping in bargain places. One problem I have encountered is that oddball lots of tiles often don't include bullnose pieces as well as regular field tile sizes. The niche that we have roughed in will require some cute tricks to make ordinary tile edges seem attractive and classy; we don't want to just snip tiles and leave raw edges. DH, my sweaty equity, did not finish the niche smoothly when he created it in drywall because we knew we would cover it in tile. Now, we're thinking that we might not do the tiling right away and he'll have to pull out drywall tools and make a proper corner edging around the niche. This kind of "go back and do over" gig is getting very frustrating. [Meanwhile, I've found a smashingly exciting tile that of course only comes without trim pieces. It's sitting right next to me, thinking. Unfortunately it has a decidedly unfinished raw edge and will require tricky handling if we choose to use it. I just covered it over so I can't see it tempting me there on the table. Have to be more practical. ] Tile shops do carry a metal edging that can be used to finish off edges when no bullnose is available, but I haven't seen examples of it in actual use on a range niche. Would love to see a sample photo to reassure me. Also, remember that if you choose to work with a thick tile or a remnant of some kind of rock from countertop on the back of the niche, that will cut down the depth of the niche shelf. If you want the area above range/cooktop to be an artistic focal point, I humbly suggest that you either make a niche OR some kind of tile design but not both. If you choose too fancy a niche back, the items standing within the niche will compete with the tile design for viewer's attention. Mine will be a working kitchen, so we're planning to put oil bottles, vinegar bottles, salt shaker, etc. there and they are supposed to get top billing. Don't forget that you can suspend a second shelf in the niche if there's room. Here is a link that might be useful: Niche topic thread

Sophie - highjacking this thread to ask you a question. I am also planning on installing some floating shelves in our kitchen. Not planned on holding anything significant weight...mostly decorative items and possible a few cookbooks. Our kitchen doesn't have a backsplash yet so anything is possible with minimal cost implications. I was thinking that we'd just have to locate the wood wall studs and drill the steel rods into those? Or are you saying that it's necessary to place wood blocking between the studs and drill into those?