Any long time homeowners here?
nan-nan
2 years ago
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Lawn mower advice for First time HomeOwner
Comments (1)40 degrees or 40%? I don't know of any 4 stroke lawn mowers that are rated for slopes of 40 degrees. Oil starvation....See MoreHi, haven't been here in a long time....
Comments (2)You may want to search your local library and used book stores for the "original" (old edition) Square Foot Gardening book. A much thicker book with, I believe, a white cover. Mel goes into all sorts of detail about working with, amending, fertilizing, etc. your native soil. If it's good soil there's not many reasons not to use it, although I sure haven't missed all those weeds. If the soil doesn't look good then the new method, with the raised boxes and "Mel's Mix" will be much better and easier (I used and loved Mel's original book for many years, but when it disappeared in the moving around surrounding my divorce, I ended up getting the new edition and building a new style SFG at my new home, and then at my parents' house. It was MUCH easier. It sounds like you are well started with a good supply of compost. If you are going to work "in the ground" I would recommend not just adding compost and other amendments (vermiculite was the best thing I ever did for/to my original in-ground SFG) and mashing them in there, but actually removing some (when I say "some" here think closer to "half" than any smaller number) of the volume of soil and replace it with compost, vermiculite, etc. don't try to "mash it in." The goal is to create a light, friable, soil that is easy to work in and for plants to grow in, not stuff a more dense mixture into the same amount of space. That brings me to the second important thing, which is to plan some kind of walkways, of boards, concrete pavers, etc if you want any paths into your beds. As long as there is room to move on both sides of the bed this shouldn't be a problem with a 4 foot width, but if it is going to be right against a wall or fence you will need to plan some way to get to your back squares without walking on the soil. That's the other big thing to the SFG method, never walk on the soil. That way you can work on it regularly, with light tools (trowels, a spade at very most) mixing in fresh compost every time you pull old plants out, and never have use heavy equipment on the soil again. Typically the tall plants go along the northern edge of the garden, so that they don't shade the shorter plants....See MoreHelp! Rugs in adjoining room and first time homeowner
Comments (3)It's hard to tell from the picture, but if the colors "go" together, it should be fine. None of my rugs match, but they pretty much flow together throughout the main floor....See MoreFirst time homeowner and lawn caretaker
Comments (29)I went to the hardware store after work today to learn about some of the supplies and see what I am going to be working with. I have a couple of questions. 1. If I were to go the grass killing route, what percentage of Glyphosate should I be using? I have seen 40%, 20% and 8%. 1a. Any suggestions on killing weeds in bush mulch beds? I am now seeing some that are sprouting. The store had some products that solely killed weeds without the grass killing label. Would general weed killer suffice? 2. If killing the grass, after the labeled amount of time is up for further lawn work to be performed, do I have to till/break up the soil with a bow rake? Or some other ground puncturing tool? 3. Seeding - what type of seed/brand do people suggest if I go Tall Fescue? This type of grass seems to be the most common, but I was a little overwhelmed (for lack of a better term) when I saw that seed bags were mixtures of seed that also included Ryegrass and KBG along with the Fescue 3a. Should I supplement the seed with a layer of hay or additional netting? (Some of the old hay and netting has not disappeared yet from the builder seed.) 3b. Since it is also mid-September, should I consider a seasonal type of seed such as a specific Fall seed? The reps at the hardware store suggested that with the season being so late (is it already?), that I should just keep my lawn the way it is and just spread whatever type of seed he was showing me at the time. 3c. What is the most optimal way to seed (could also be answered with the questions above)? Should I just purchase a spreader and apply or do the additional processes mentioned above need to be performed? 4. If not killing the grass, can I just add seed and respray my lawn with more weed kill? What brands are suggested? 5. Mulch beds - how often should I overturn the mulch? I read that at least once a season and apply 0.5-1 inch of additional mulch yearly or around that time frame. 6. Any suggestion on brand/type of spray applicator? For performing whole lawn maintenance, I was looking at the hose attachable handles with reservoirs to hold lawn care product like herbicides, etc... I could also supplement that with 1-2 gallon pump sprayer just in case. Sorry for the plethora of questions but I am still in the learning phase before I take action. I would plan to do some maintenance beginning Saturday afternoon if possible and continue it throughout the week coming straight home after work....See Morenan-nan
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2 years agoTherese N
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