That is my question, HU-773166389. My late husband, deceased 9 years now, built a brick will with 6 pillars and wired 2 for lighting along with landscape lighting. Sadly he passed before completing everything. I purchased limestone caps and 120v pillar lighting fixtures a couple of years ago but just located a brick layer pointer who will place the caps. He noticed that the wiring is LV in the pillars. As he revisited it, I recalled the questions that I had when I originally purchased the fixtures. I would want to use LV-LED bulbs anyway. Nothing is wired into the breaker box yet, but to run new wire would be a major investment as there are brick walkways that run from the house to the the where the pillars are. I am hoping from reading this that I will be able to have the electrician wire the 120 fixture directly to the 12 volt landscape wire that ia wired to a transformer and install a 4-10 watt bulb in each. and be done. Just need confirmation.

There are other sources - superbrightleds.com, etc. The low voltage wiring should be 16 or 18 gauge wire. All the interconnecting wiring will be low voltage. Always plan on having low voltage wiring run directly from the transformer(s) to each zone. Daisy chaining should be avoided if possible 1. To ensure that a failure in one section will not result in a major failure. 2. The voltage drop may be too great at the daisy chain end. Another thing - flexible lighting should be handled with care as the LEDs are surface mounted onto flexible printed circuit boards. Flexible LEDs make sense if you intend to attach the strips onto curved surfaces. They only bend in the y axis.

spencer or others did i read this correctlty - that I can use 14/2 wire on the load side of the transformer to supply low voltage lights? the reason I ask is that I thought my electricians wired my kitchen and butler pantry above cabinet wiring incorrectly - but maybe it is ok. For the above cabinet lights - they have a switch leg coming out of the wall - not in a box. From that location - they daisy chained the circuit to 3 other locations where sections of cabinets are located. Is it possible to use the 110V switch leg to drive a transformer (located at the top of the cabinet) and then use the other 14/2 wire on the load side of the trasnformer to carry low volatge - 12 or 24 volts? If that is so - that would be wonderful. They did use low voltage cable for my under cabinet low voltage lights. This cable is black - at least 14 guage 2 conductor stranded wire. They ran 4 of these cable lengths from a central location to where the cabinet sgements will be and they also have another 110V feed at the central location - presumably for another transformer. I thought this is how they should have run the above cabinet lights - but they did not do it the same way. Not sure why. It makes sense to me that the 14/2 wire could electrically carry a low voltage - just wasn't sure if code allowed it. Thanks.

oldsparky508 - Thank you for your comments. However, I think you may have missed some of my comments because I know I've written a lot. I cannot work in the ceiling because I have no access to the ceiling. We have a flat roof (no attic) on our house with tong and groove wood planks which are 4" thick (1960 wood ceiling) suspended by 4x10" beams. The external wall of the house is concrete block and one of these beams rest on top of the block giving no access to the wiring. Also, I live in Phoenix, AZ and we do not have a basement. I have a 20 AMP breaker with 12 AWG wiring with only 6 outlets on the circuit right now. So I have no concerns about overloading the circuit. The lighting that I purchased is Tech Lighting-Accent Cable Kit 5 Head-800CBL5PN . This lighting matches what we installed on the other side of the room already where there was an internal wall from which power was available. However, it is not possible to pull wire from that area over to the other side of the house without a major deconstruction effort. Therefore, the only option is on the concrete block wall of the house to pull the power. where I want to put up the lighting The halogen bulbs have a max rating of 20W and there are 5 bulbs for a total of 100W. So this will not add much of a draw on the circuit and I don't have to worry about trying to drill into the 1960 tongue and groove ceiling which has very minimal space between it and the trusses for the flat roof. I've attached a picture below. The right hand side is where I want to install the cable lighting, so that it lights up the artwork on the wall above the buffet hutch. Also, I want to install an outlet along the top of the buffet hutch on the right hand side, so that I don't have to run an extension cord to get power on the counter top. The outlet I want to use is on the left hand side of the door where the stand alone lamp (which is no longer there), is plugged into. My plan is to put the switch on the wall next to the entry way because it has more space between the concrete and drywall. I hope this makes it clearer.