the problem is.. they are usually empty ... if you could actually find one full .. and test out the motors and what not ... then it might be worth it ... but i have to tell you.. moving one of these larger units is not easy nor fun ... and it would be a lot of backbreaking labor.. to find out it leaks.. or the circuitry is fried ... i didnt see where you are ... but running it.. in the great frozen north.. all winter long will be a hundred or two dollars per month ... and that is why i eventually got rid of mine ... i could not steep myself in there.. and relax ..... knowing it was costing me so much dough ... lol ... even in summer.. it wasnt cheap.. keeping it at temp ... as it takes hours for it to go up a degree or two ... so its not like you can knock the temp back.. like you might your furnace ... at night ... and think it will come back up to heat.. in an hour or two ... ken

We bought a used Nordic hot tub with a Gecko controller and an Aquaflo Flo-master XP2 pump about 10 years ago and it recently stopped working the controller was blank the led on the spapac board was on the fuses were good line power was what it should be: so I bought a topside controller. that was not the problem the spapack was bad. Replaced the spa pack and I had a lot of noise and bubbles coming out of the jets with the air ventures off and the controller errors out with FLO. I adjusted the pressure switch until I got a FLC error and then backed it up 1/4 turn. I then noticed a piece of a disintegrated impeller ware ring in the old heating element. I took the pump out and cracked the impeller shaft. I got a new wet end from poolpartsdotcom and still had bubbles in the jets. I replaced all the seals in the new wet end and still got an air leak. my symptoms are pump turns on no bubbles for a period of time(10 to 60 seconds) then bubbles, then FLO error, after 4 or 5 cycles of the pump I get a HL error and the top surface of the heater is hot.. If I take out the filter there are less bubbles and maybe it will take 8-10 cycles before it trips to HL. I don't see a water leak (area is clean) and I cannot hear the air leak (I tried listening with a stethoscope and a pipe). My better half is loosing patience. This post was edited by sean.jackOfSome on Wed, Feb 19, 14 at 22:27

Usually my family does not buy "top of the line" and when we went looking in May and June for hot tubs, we looked at a lot of companies and products (Twin Cities area). I thought we were looking for a relatively small-medium product for 4 sitters, but as we looked we began to see the differences between the brands and each product began to look more unique. We didn't ever look at a Nordic, sorry to say. I really wanted one with a lot of foot massage features, which some models lack entirely. When we did "wet tests" I began to realize that a lot of the brands had built-in seats that were quite low for me, an older woman whose body is shrinking in height. We also found that the "lounge" feature was a mixed blessing from the massage point of view for some models, that some lounges were so bed-like that you simply floated upward, and that the lounges were often positioned in a place that did not allow us to make good use of the view of the yard. Hubby and I did a lot of talking and studied the diagrams that showed where the deep seats were (not good for me) and the access panel, steps, etc. We had to rule out some models simply because of the layout. Meanwhile, Hubby had begun to look at repair rates, energy efficiency, long-term satisfaction. He decided he wanted to consider the Bullfrog brand. This product is different from the others in that it doesn't have miles of pipes inside of the body because the piping is primarily built into the "jet packs" which can be moved between the seats. I was pleased that we could couple my fave jet combos with the short seats. Although there appears to be less foot massage and molded lumps for the feet to rub on, at least there is some foot action. I've agreed that the Bullfrog looks to be a good product. We recently put in our order and will be installing it in about a month. Sure hope we like it. It will cost much more up front than we had budgeted but we think it will be cheaper in the long run and it's bigger than we thought we would be buying. By the way look into your local code requirements before you blow your whole budget on the hot tub itself. Plan for materials costs for the patio or deck, plus electrical box and wiring, plus...this was a surprise for us...we have a local code that is worried that spilled water will conduct electricity over the patio concrete, so we have to build a 3' deck skirt around all exposed sides. Some of the vendors have a "second installation" clause in their contracts that will allow you to have them come to move the tub to a different place in the same yard without charge. Sounds good to us...we might need this in future. Have fun stormin' the castle!

I was able to simplify balancing my water on my initial startup after purchasing my hot tub without adding all the junk and had a successful 2 months of running without issue and water perfectly balanced. Just recently, I drained and cleaned the tub, refilled, and am attempting to get the spa back into balance from this latest fill and for whatever reason, I can't get it right. Below are my steps, then the issue. 1. Refill water to 1" below seat pads. 2. Re-install filter 3. Purge pumps. 4. Let warm up to 90 Degrees 5. Adjust PH and Alk as necessary. I use PH + and PH- by Pro Team Spa to set these values. 6. Check hardness(I use an RV filter to fill the spa, so my hardness is usually on point the last 2 fills). 7. Super Chlorinate with 1.38 TBSP of Dichlor by Pro Team Spa 8. Once my FC has dropped back down between 1 and 3, I'll insert my Frog Mineral and Chlorine cartridges on their proper settings. I"m using pro-team spa products except for the Frog filter unit that's built into the spa. If that looks good, onto Issue. I set the hardness and alkalinity and can normally get those in check. Ph is another story. Upon initial check, pH strip shows it's way over 8, so I use pH- to bring it down. I've gotten it down to around 7.2 and let sit overnight, and it acts as though the pH rises over a 24 hour period. On one occasion, I got the pH down to 7.2 then introduced my chlorine and within 12 hours, my total chlorine reads 5-6, my free chlorine reads 0, and my pH appears to be skyrocketted again over 8. I've tried multiple brands of strips to make sure one wasn't bad. Last week over the course of a few days, it looked like my pH was set and would stay around 7.2, so I introduced a superchlorinate and then the Frog system and let sit for a couple days. Checked the water and again, the TC was around 5-6 and the FC was 0, and the pH was around 8.0+. I took a water sample to my local spa shop and they basically said, Yup, your PH is high, try this, and offered me a pH- bottle which I politely declined since that's basically what I've been using to try and get my pH in check. Like I said, I've used color strips, the Aquachek digital scale, and even the frog color scale that came with my frog cartridges. The Aquachek gives me a digital value of 8.4 and says hi, Chlorine 0, and Alk is around 120. The kid at the spa shop did not seem interested in helping me so I don't plan to go back. What am I missing, doing wrong, or both?