That looks great! I was thinking what annkh said about the BR 4 closet: take out the rod/shelf on the back wall and you'll have full use of the rods on either side (no dead corners.) I'd put a big mirror on the back wall so when she gets dressed in there she can see how everything looks. Looks like a great set up for a teen! This is a small thing but I'd move the door to the BR4 closet to the right to be closer to the bathroom, and have it open toward the other side of the closet (the right side.) This will give you just a bit more space in that corner of the room; maybe put in a comfy chair and a hanging light for a nice little reading spot. Or, depending on how you all feel about accessing the closet from the bathroom, flip the orientation of the closet so the two rods run along the top and bottom, the door opens from the bathroom, and the back wall (where I'd put a big mirror) is to the left. It takes away wall space in the bathroom, but it gives you a long wall in the bedroom for furniture, and it means that she can go from closet to bathroom without passing in front of the bedroom door. (Mockup below.) You have tons of awesome storage already, but you could also add a closet under the higher stair landing, opening toward the ping pong table. This could have storage for paddles, balls, games, etc. Also, you could store your wrapping paper there; my mom always wrapped presents on their ping pong table because it was such a great place to spread out. Finally, what do you think about adding a small, apartment sized stackable washer and dryer? This would be great for pool towels, wet suits, and so your daughter and guests could do laundry without bringing it upstairs.(Same with sweaty exercise towels if you do have the workout room.) I know, I'm getting greedy here, but just thinking about making life easier. :) You have plumbing down there already, so adding one might not be too much of a stretch. (I have a second laundry in my basement and I love it when we have tons of laundry, like after a vacation. I also use it for cleaning rags, towels and sheets from the guest room, etc., so it gets a lot of use.)

Is your main level fireplace a real masonry fireplace or a pre-fab fireplace built into a chase cavity? Is your basement finished or unfinished? When my wife and I lived in Connecticut, we had electric heat. We saw plenty of similar home with wood burners in the basement and central heat register looking openings cut into the floor through to the basement. That enabled heat to rise through the openings to get heat to the upper levels. My wife and I preferred to enjoy the ambience of the burning wood and more direct heat so we put our stove on the main floor. If it were me, I'd go with the insert as long as your existing fireplace is really masonry. If it's pre-fab, you can remove the existing fireplace and install a high efficiency fireplace that not only will heat the main level while looking like a fireplace, but you can also run duct work out of the side of the unit down to your basement and blow heat to that level. That what we have at our ranch house now in Illinois.

There's a lot left unsaid in this thread. Spencer's remark about drilling joists in the attic needed to be addressed with the fact that horizontal framing members can't be drilled within 2 inches of the edges - which means most trusses can't be drilled at all and running boards would be required within 7 feet of a scuttle hole. There are standards published by the lumber industry for permissible hole size and spacing to prevent "bouncy" floors due to drilled holes. Most bouncy floors are a result of non compliant framing. What is a bit unusual is you finding the lack of a formal "close out" statement by someone being a problem. Code requirements were stated and most reasonable folks would find that sufficient. This forum isn't the code police, people seeking advice come here to get it. People that aren't particularly concerned about the code requirements are going to do what they want and/or think is OK anyway. And, by the way, staples do a pretty good job of holding up the cable with stuff hanging on it. There is, however, the issue of the 4 1/2 foot spacing of staples that will let the wire droop quite a bit if weighted down, and once pulled down it won't go back up by itself. Boring the joists generally limits unsupported cable to a bit over 14 inches

Ok just one thing caught my little mind in that post....(ok and the compliment as well...thank you very much!) The idea to keep the granite "consistant throughout the house". Now that idea I want to pooh pooh if you're only using the same granite because it's going to match the kitchen. That just bores me to death...seeing the same stone in every room (I just saw that in a townhouse we looked at last week...pretty granite, but the same granite in every bathroom and kitchen, on all levels....blah!). I mean...if you LOVE it, go for it, but I'd shake things up with a complimentary granite, but not the same one. A beautiful black granite (which is a very family friendly stone) would go with almost any decor, even pink :OP Personally, I find replacing counters to be a major hassel in the whole scheme of things. Especially if you have a backsplash in tile. I'd do something you plan on keeping for the long run verses putting in one counter with the plan to change later. Hitting the remnant yard isn't a bad idea :) You'd be amazed at the savings you can get. Frankly, if it were me, I'd be looking at onyx (but that's because I try to sneek it in wherever possible LOL). A kitchenette like this won't really be getting that much abuse. It's not like you're going to let the girls stirfry and slather soy sauce about are you? What's a high end laminate? Gad I wish I knew the brand. I know that the cost of the one I picked was about two thirds more than the stuff the cabinet maker had out in the main room. I thought it was a better looking "fake" stone pattern than the ones they had in the main showroom. It just cost more (but in comparison to my granite, marble and onyx, was much cheeper). One other option....how about metal? Is your space the kind of space that a gorgeous copper or zinc would work in? Or stainless? Those are all great wearing surfaces that keep you in the same quality level as your granite counters will.