Anyone else getting a ton load of rain, lousy lack of sun weather?
Meyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoMeyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoRelated Discussions
Anyone else out there wishing for cooler temps and some rain???
Comments (12)We had a lovely, summer-like stretch of weather this past week - 70s and 80s, clear and sunny. It has been VERY dry, though, so I did a lot of "spot watering" with a can, and some kelp emulsion fertilizer. I did plant some things out (in the evenings, well watered), and watered them every evening after their daily baking. I also had to water my long shade bed - it wasn't dessicated, but it was definitely thirsty and lagging. I also had to open all my containers and check their moisture level every day; I had to water them several times. Yesterday we finally got some blessed, beautiful rain. It was accompanied by a prolonged rumbling booming slow storm, but I didn't mind that at all. The temp dropped 10-15 degrees in a half hour. You could practically HEAR the whole garden go "AAAaaaah. . ." as it soaked up the rain. Today I can just watch things grow. My DH will have to mow again this weekend, and put in the A/Cs (I enjoy the nice weather, but I have little tolerance for the humid heat in the house). I'm glad I direct sowed my nasturtiums yesterday - the Lord watered them in for me really well, lol. Laurel...See MoreLack of rain and how you are coping
Comments (9)I'm in the York region as well. This is the first time I heard of the ban and so i guess I have to follow the advise. However, I always water minimally but my place still looks lush. Now that i know about this I shall try to find ways to keep watering a minimum. I too have large containers which can be filled with water. It only takes a few minutes of watering to keep the plants happy. My front yard requires far less watering. In fact, I've left it for a week and it still looks vibrant. It's filled with plants that do not require as much watering - like shasta daisies, lavenders, yarrow, day lilies, thyme, etc. I don't understand people who leave a sprinkler on their lawns for hours at a time. Watering lawns should only take a few minutes. Many times, when my neighbors ask me to check their dried up lawns, the problem is not in the watering, but in the soil - or lack of it. Almost always, there's no topsoil left to help retain moisture and sustain grass growth. Because of the occasional waterban, I've taken steps over the years to help my back garden survive and remain green despite minimal watering. In my area, it's quite clayish so I took care to top dress my lawn each spring with triple mixes and course sand. It helped in creating a thicker layer of top soil for the grass and the clay layer beneath helped with water retention. It helps grass grow and periodical holes made with a pitchfork provides much needed oxygen to the roots. I leave the grass clippings ungathered. That too helps with minimizing evaporation. A form of mulching if you will. I've also created enough shade conditions which helps a lot. As for containered plants - I have several and I group this close together creating a humid condition and watering less. Each planter has a catch plate to keep excess water. Small wall planters are filled with succulents like hens and chicks and under sedums. They hardly need any watering. I also filled the borders with plants that have large foliage. It creates shade and shade hinders rapid evaporation. One large leaf plant is enough to sustain the surrounding plants. For instance hosta, coral bells, heucheras....See MoreAnyone else's garden suffer from excessive rain this year?
Comments (16)Interesting.. some people have absolutely no problems and some people did like me. The mosquito population over here exploded. There are swarms of them literally going after me every day. Its good that I didn't have to give any supplemental watering to my plants but too many fungus problems happen in this much rain. Is there really no way of combating fungus diseases caused by the excessive rain? Or do I just have to keep watching my plants suffer and die. Because even if you apply fungicide the rain will only wash it away. I wonder if a state exists where there is consistently 1 inch of rain a week in spring and summer, almost no precipitation(other than snow) in winter, doesn't go below -5 degrees in winter but not a warm winter like in the PNW and southeast(need a pretty good freeze for fungal reasons), doesn't go over 85 degrees in summer, humidity is low in summer, no natural disasters, no voles or Japanese beetles. I would do anything to move to a place like that....See MoreIs This Wilting Rose Suffering From Lack of Water or Something Else?
Comments (86)Westes: An automated trench digger that goes down 3 feet is still feasible. The majority of the roots are in the upper 2 feet. I saw a crew tearing up the neighbor's asphalt drive-way, they used an automated digger that tore up the hard drive way FAST like a fork going through soft cake. Digging a long trench through my rock-hard clay by myself was the hardest part.The easiest part was to use a SHARP SPADE to chop a few roots DEEPER than 2 feet. The trench was too narrow & deep so I could not use a pickax. A 4-prong pitch-fork is handy to pull out the tree's roots from your rose-bed. A deep spade is a the most powerful weapon against black spots, fast drainage is created when one removes the rocks below. If there are rocks below, it will delay drainage and black spots occur when ACIDIC rain-water pools up in root area. David Austin Rose Catalog recommends using a pitch fork in gardening. I can't garden without pitch-fork and LONG DEEP SPADE. My long-spade is 25 year old and it was better-quality back then. Newer ones on Amazon can't compare to the old-garden tools. Some pics. of the brick-border dug down to 2 feet to stop my 20-year-old Norway Spruce tree from invading my garden: Above is TRIPLE-PROTECTION against root-invasion. 1) Right most is DUG-DOWN-brick-border (using 4" thick cement blocks at 2 feet depth, and smaller bricks on top to level out. 2) To the left of it I fill with stones from my garden (the size of oranges & lemons). 3) I put LARGE SQUARE BLOCKS on top TO DENY THE TREE-ROOT (ON LEFT) OF RAIN-WATER. The pots on top used to have tree-root CRAWLING UP inside. Norway Spruce tree roots VARY IN DEPTH. Where it meets my rose-garden, it stole water to be VERY DEEP, at 2 feet, so I use 3 bricks-level (large cement blocks at bottom, and a small Holland brick on top). Then as the root goes toward sunny & dry spot it became shallow (so I use only 1 brick level). That's the advantage of putting down bricks: ONE CAN ADJUST THE LAYERS OF BRICKS according to roots' depth. If I had done corrugated vinyl siding .. it would be IMPOSSIBLE to adjust the height of the barrier. Plastic Shield like corrugated vinyl siding comes in FIXED depth (like 2 feet or 3 feet) and it's major work to cut a hard-plastic sheet. I have lots of thick Plastic-edging in my garden (dug down to 5 inch., and it takes me 20 min. just to saw off a 5" section. Above upper-left shows the Norway-Spruce root going into my rose garden. Below the pots there's cement blocks dug down to 2 feet. On the right-edge of the pic. is another barrier of cement-blocks (dug down deep). Where the 2 barriers merge in a V-shape I put more square blocks TO PREVENT RAIN WATER from seeping in. This was done last year. This month I dug in my garden to plant new roses, zero Norway Spruce's roots came in. The barriers are 15 feet away from the trunk of the 20-year-old-evergreen tree....See MoreCA Kate z9
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