New build: LVP or Engineered Hardwood?
Anina S.
2 years ago
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Anina S.
2 years agocpartist
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Pros and cons... LVP vs. engineered hardwood
Comments (5)Vinyl does NOT like heat or direct sunlight. Most vinyl products have a maximum heat tolerance of 85F. That 'sounds' fine until you realize that a pool of sunlight on a floor can reach 120F inside of 20 minutes! Ooops. Which means you need to assess your home as a WHOLE. Old windows or windows that have very little UV protection on them will give you plenty of trouble when looking at the average vinyl product (today's low-E windows start with a UV protection of 45% and then move to 75% and then to 90% or higher). It sounds like you have a low-impact household and a nice home (depending where you live...my market offers bachelor apartments for your price range). A wood product would certainly offer a beautiful floor with plenty of livability and plenty of return on investment. With a budget starting at $7/sf (and moving higher would be preferable) you can have a midrange quality engineered hardwood and a lovely underlay (like 1/4" cork) that will give your new hardwood floors a lovely solid feel to them. Oh yah....vinyl does NOT like underpad. It needs to go STRAIGHT DOWN on to the subfloor. And if the subfloor isn't PERFECT you can have problems....See MoreEngineered Hardwood vs Hardwood vs LVP in Kitchen/Dining/Living? MDWST
Comments (19)Kim,,,it's very solid. just make sure the glue is spread to completely cover the plank. I have a few spots (like under the kitchen sink) where they missed the corner and it squeaks. They've held up great. I don't have dogs, but I have cats and have heard their nails burning rubber across the floor they go off on their tangents. I've spilled water, cleaned up their barf, spilled food, whatever, it all cleans up very well. as for dents, only if you drop something very heavy. but any wood floor will dent. I vacuum w/a Dyson, and then I use Bona wood floor cleaner on a mop. in the kitchen, i'll often take the scrubby brush and watered down Dawn to clean up spills or oil stains. no problem. no, I don't baby them. I don't wear shoes in my house though. I love my floors. just make sure on install they clean up all the glue residue. my guys were messy and lazy. had to call them back w/special glue remover and rag and go over the entire floor....See MoreShould I replace engineered hardwoods with real hardwoods?
Comments (35)I'm not sure what LVT is. :) I have an appointment with the flooring person for Saturday to test out samples. Cherie, we hate forced hot air because it bothers my and the kids' asthma and allergies so I am actually very happy about these baseboard radiators as radiant heat is much easier on the lungs since it's not blowing hot air all over the place. There is central air for the summer months. We live in Northern NH... it gets cold here for sure. I am going to keep the tile in the kitchen for now and the rest will be new flooring *all going in the same direction* ! We are ripping out the red carpeting, which is in all four bedrooms as well as on the stairs. We want to replace that with flooring and we don't want yet another type of flooring in the house so it makes sense to do the living and dining room as well. When we reconfigure the kitchen, we'll have to match it up and remove the tile at that time....See MoreFloors...hardwood, engineered, or LVP?
Comments (2)Oddly enough, lacing in wood + full sand/refinish is the LEAST expensive option. Nope. Not kidding. Assuming you have wood that can support a full sand/refinish (solid hardwood OR engineered with 3mm wear layer of wood on top), the cost to sand/refinish the EXISTING = $5-$7/sf...that INCLUDES labour and materials. That's the FINAL cost. To lace in some matching wood = $10/sf for the wood + install (or $400 - $800 depending on a 'job size') and THEN you calculate the $5-$7/sf for the sand/refinish. If you have 1000sf, your project will cost (estimate only) $6,000 + $800 = $6,800 for a NEW FLOOR. Wow. That's pretty darn good! Lets look at the 'other options' for 1000sf of flooring: Demolition: $2/sf = $2,000 (floor REMOVAL) Subfloor prep: $2/sf = $2,000 LVP Price: $3/sf = $3,000 (material ONLY) Uh oh...I spy with my little calculator...this just got MORE expensive already = $7,000 Install Labour: $3/sf = $3,000 oops...LVP is going to cost $10/sf for the ENTIRE thing = $10,000 The Demolition stuff = IDENTICAL for ANYTHING you choose = Non-negotiable = MUST BE DONE. The $4,000 to get 1000sf 'dealt with' so it is ready for a new floor is going to be the same no matter what you look at. The sand/refinish option is always going to be cheaper...unless you work with $0.79/sf laminate with installation as DIY....See Morekj s
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