v1rtu0s1ty, I don't have a second meter so I can't compare that cost for you, but that sounds reasonable as far as plumbing work goes. I would suggest that if you are having someone install a new meter for you that you go the extra step and have them plumb a direct connection you can use for your irrigation instead of(or in addition to) a hose bib. If you look a few posts back you'll see me discuss the benefits of increased flow from a direct connection as opposed to running off a restrictive hose bib. Look inside one of the faucets on your house and you'll see how tiny that opening is. You may be cutting your GPM potential in half, limiting your entire system's design. While you're at it have them install a backflow preveter for you. These can be bought at Lowe's for as little as $40. That will keep fertilizer/pesticides, etc. from being siphoned back into your home's water supply. Yuck! I have some valves installed at the spot where my water connection is made, then a long length of pipe runs around the back of the house to another set of valves. So all valves should run off the same water connection/backflow preventer. That looks like the right pipe. I'd recommend not going below 3/4", and 1" if you can afford the cost of the pipe, connectors, etc. It also comes in different pressure ratings. I think 100psi and 160psi. The 100 psi is easier to bend and insert fitting into, but isn' appropriate for use where the pipe is going to be under constant pressure. Use the 160 psi stuff for those situations. Example, the pipe that runs around to the back of my house is constantly under pressure so I used the higher PSi stuff. Design the system after the second meter is installed. You need to test for GPM and also find the static pressure. Once you know those things you can start to figure plcaement of your heads. Different heads will throw water different distances depending on what your pressure is. The heads should have a little chart right on them that tells you how many feet of throw you'll get at various pressures. You'll need to take into account pressure losses from your pipe runs and connectors, backflow preventer to figure what the actual pressure a the head will be. Go forth and make rain! check out www.irrigationtutorials.com by Jess Stryker for lots of info.

har, Is your irrigation connected to your house faucet? or from a connection from the street(before your house pressure regulator)? If you say you have 90 psi or higher then your pressure is way too high and is most likely connected to the street pressure. The sprinkler are rated for on the average 50 to 60 psi(average house regulated pressure). The irrigation system at that high a pressure will wear out faster and experience water hammer which eventually will rupture pipes. Do you have a way to fill up a 5-gallon bucket from your irrigation main line before you valves? Flow rate can be easily found by filing a 5-gal bucket and timing the fill. Aloha

lehua13, I'm disappointed in your reply. They're usually helpful but this one implies that since you don't have one, you can't understand why someone else would want/need one. I have a few reasons for wanting and even needing a remote but I'm fairly certain that my questions can be answered without having to explain WHY. Even if I didn't have a NEED and just WANTED one, it's my prerogative to stimulate the economy. Do you have anything you don't NEED? Of course you do. Hopefully someone else will reply that has something of value to add. Monica

Distance between heads is about 55'. I forgot to mention when the line(3 lines total) comes out of the valve and into the yard they simply "T" off and go to each sprinkler. The sprinkler closest to the point where it tees is about 10' away where the other sprinkler is over 40' away. The line coming into the house is 3/4" copper. I'm 100% certain because I put a ball type cutoff valve in(and replaced the hose bib with a ball type) when we had to tee off for the sprinkler. Rather have a close easy to get to shutoff valve than run out to the street and fight with the valve on the meter in case something happens.