To move the cooktop to the perimeter location involves: Removing the perimeter countertop, which may break. The reason you have to remove it is because the cooktop will not fit into the cabinets below where you want it to be. You have 2 cabinets there, not a single cooktop cabinet. So you will need to move the cooktop cabinet there and one of those cabinets to the island. However, that won't work for your already installed flooring unless it runs under the cabinets. Of course, you could have an expert cabinet maker demolish the interior of the two side supports of those cabinets and rebuild them with additional support and then just cut a hole in the granite in place. Not cheap, either way. You will have to have an expert cabinet person modify the upper cabinet above to be shorter, or build an entirely new one to be shorter. Yes, you could just move it up, but then it would look really strange. If you can live with that, that would be the cheapest solution for the upper cabinet. It will still need to have a hole cut into it for the vent pipe. You will also have to run either gas or 220 electric to that location. Gas has to be in rigid black iron pipe. Only the last few feet can be in flexible stainless. THe plumber will have to calculate if you can T off of the gas supply that (I hope) is running through the attic and not just through the slab foundation. That black iron has to be run down through that outside wall from the attic and into the cabinet below the cooktop location. If you did induction, you'd have a similar herculean run all the way from the electrical box. That means tearing up the drywall surface to run those things, and then repairing it. That's best case scenario and they can actually manage to get the pipe to run through the stud cavity and not down the outside of the house. Then you'd have to deal with running the electrical for the vent, and cutting the hole in your house for the vent. That involves patching the exterior siding and installing a damper. And that is even if your jurisdiction would allow a vent straight out the wall in that location. In most locations, it's too close to an operable window to allow termination there and would have to go through the roof. Taking it through the roof involves a big old pipe sticking up quite a ways. It has to, because of code requirements and it's location there on the eaves. And it involves a roof penetration, which needs someone who knows the heck what they're doing for you not to have a leak. Not rocket surgery, but you'd be surprised at how often a "handyman" will screw it up. It's something you need an HVAC trade for, and possibly a roofer. More expensive, but you tend to rule out the "and master of none" jacks. Then, you'd have to replace the island counter. THe suggested butcher block would be a good budget friendly surface that would work. If the Brazillian Brown Silestone on the perimeter cracks, you'd need to be OK with them glueing it back together, or replacing it. Replacing it would be 5-7K, and I didn't count that in the total here at the end. All in all, you'd be spending a minimum of 10K to move the cooktop off of the island. Probably more, because it's an older house, and once you start touching stuff like electrical, you've got to bring some things up to current codes. And you'd still be left with a barrier island with the critical to access fridge on the wrong side of it, and the ovens in an inconvenient spot. You'd be left with the dumping ground of the desk area. You'd be left prepping on top of your cleanup area in about 30" of space. Meaning you will have a one person kitchen. "Spacious" isn't spacious when all of the zones are overlapping and everyone needs to use the same exact square footage that you do, or you have to put on rollerskates to get from one side of the space to the other. It doesn't matter if the kitchen is 20x20 if all of the zones overlap at the sink and you have to always walk around an obstacle to perform even the simplest sandwich prep. As I said, the cheapest option at this point would be to do an overhead vent through the roof and then replace the island counter with one with more overhang. That would only cost you 4-5K or so. It would still leave the other issues that the kitchen has, and it would reduce your aisle way in front of the fridge, but it would get you through until you could address the rest of the issues in a more complete redo.

bluescitygirl I am not rude at all. I just answer you the same way as you commented to breton's post, using your exact words..."I am disagreeing with Breton2"... Ewwmayo posted even more info to prove the same point - did you pay attention to what he said?..."I took this thermal image a little while back and all the coldest days that winter. Outside it was around -18C or so. Inside, at the window frame it was -1C. My variety of succulents did just fine sitting so close to this window for several winters. The leaves were not touching the window pane. My coworkers and I were freezing!"... I know him, he lives approx. 100km south of me, and I have seen his plants. -18 C is about 0 F (you didn't bother to indicate if using F or C - it would be nice if you were precise, not everyone lives in the same country as you). I am not talking about hardy succulents at all. And FYI, I have been growing most of them for abt. 12 years, in cold z5 (and previously z6) and my windowsills are full of them. I hope I learned something in all those years - am sure I don't know as much as you do, but never lost a succulents from growing it on the windowsill. You sound very hostile for someone that just posted 1st time on this forum and doesn't even know who is who (female? male?...), how much experience they have and so on...I wonder who needs to ..." Maybe you and that other fellow need to go cool your assets in that freeze and chill"...

100% I'd go with engineered hardwood over Vinyl plank. I just don't understand why some people seem to feel engineered hardwood is not a good choice. I think it is fantastic and is the best choice for certain installations. I don't think engineered flooring is in any way inferior. If you like wide plank you can get that in engineered as well - up to 8-10" wide. Although a more common size is 5-6" wide. We've had engineered hardwood down in our cottage for more than 3 years. We have had no issue at all with it and I haven't noticed any fading in sunlight and we have a lot of windows. Follow the manufacturers instructions and put in good underlayment - it really can make a big difference to the comfort and sound of the floors. There are so many colours and wood species available in engineered hardwood. I know you've said you spent a long time looking at your LVP - hopefully you can find some hardwood that is similar to what you were hoping for. I think this will turn out to be a lucky accident and in the long run I hope you will be very happy with whatever you choose.

How to start a fight: discuss flooring before or after dishwasher, before or after cabinets etc. You're in a retrofit/remodel situation. Normally with new we run floors continuously through the DW cavity so the rear legs don't have to be adjusted significantly just to install or remove. Some thoughts: One could create a seam behind the toe plate and still install flooring behind the seam. One could build a sheet metal pan in that space, then fill w flooring to the same level leaving a way to capture leaks. Regarding leaks.... find some battery powered leak detectors and leave under DW & sink.