Select the metal clad wood window product for long lasting durability. The metal can always be repainted in the future (just like the fiberglass or wood). In CO, we can expect a quality exterior paint finish on wood to remain protective for approximately 2-8 years, depending on sun exposure. However, the sun exposure aspects are more intense at our mountain elevations than in TX. Another very important consideration in the clad-wood vs. all-wood window discussion is the additional structural integrity offered in a properly designed clad-wood window. The extruded aluminum acts as a component to adding strength to the wood joints (particularly in the sash construction). Marvin is a very well designed product when the proper use of cladding is considered, as is Eagle and Kolbe. Fiberglass window construction shouldn't even be considered, unless the discussion is in regards to energy efficiency; Plastics and fiberglass conduct much less, but are also not as durable as metals. Additionally, metals will paint just as easily as fiberglass or wood. Your concern about being stuck with a paint color, when choosing clad-wood windows, is unfounded. The only disadvantage to field-painting clad-wood windows is that the paint will degrade in the same time frame as painting an all-wood window, so you would lose the "low-maintenance" benefit of the clad-wood window after you have decided to change the color in the future. Consider the added structural integrity offered by some clad-wood windows, and the fact that the all-wood windows are likely the same price as the clad-wood. If there is a difference in price, think of the cost savings each time you don't have to paint your clad-wood windows, until that time comes when you decide to change the color. Select the clad-wood windows, if repainting is your only concern.

I have a fiberglass garage door in white, and while I love the look, the insulating qualities, & light weight (easier on the opener's motor than heavy wood), I wouldn't want it in a faux wood look. When I researched entry doors, it seemed like the big complaint about wood-look fiberglass is that it fades after time and needs to be restained periodically. I wouldn't want to do that for a big garage door. The gel staining wouldn't be too difficult, but applying the UV resistant poly coats would give me pause. A wood door's maintenance would be just as demanding, and wood is heavier (needs more powerful door openers) and is prone to warping (which is why we got rid of our old wood doors). I would think a steel door in a faux wood finish would have the same maintenance issues as fiberglass. It's not so much the door material as the coating on it -- stains & poly don't stand up to heat, sun, rain, & snow well. So just as long as you know what you're getting into. A wood look door may well be worth the effort & expense to you. And maybe your DIY skills are way better than mine! Wood garage doors seem to be the fashion now. Over in Advice, many are asking how to update their homes. The popular answers are 1. Don't paint the brick, it's a maintenance hassle; 2. Replace your garage door with a stained wood door. I question the responses because in my experience, it's the opposite: stained wood garage doors are a maintenance hassle, but painted brick is not if prepped well (is in good condition, sparkling clean and bone dry before painting).

Take a look at the board and batten homes here. There are some good examples how to mix it up. I think you ideas sound interesting, although I would not do white doors. I am not a fan of the stacked small stone, If you do clad use a veneer that looks like stone that could be used to build a foundation. Otherwise, just stucco and paint to match your siding. This space uses a mix of siding.

Is your garage insulated? Is it covered with another room? Trying to come up with issues that would be bad but some of the options depend on construction techniques. What does the Epoxy paint manufacturer say about new concrete? Has the door been open much? New concrete is very wet and will make the humidity in a closed garage quite high. Not sure how the Epoxy changes that? It would probably slow the curing down some and extend the wet time. Concrete dries forever but by a year, it has slowed down considerably.