Beware that the nursery industry lies... Uhhh, gee thanks. :( But, "lies", no. That is an unfair statement. Dry gallons and liquid gallons aren't the same amount. 1 gallon, dry = 1.1636 gallons, liquid So what you are seeing in the nursery industry is a liquid gallon label since that is the U.S. Customary usage but which actually hold the equivalent dry gallon measurement of a dry material like potting soil. A 5 gallon nursery pot will hold 5 gallons of water (if you plug up the drain holes) it just won't hold 5 gallons of potting soil. A 5 gallon paint bucket (liquid) = 4.3 dry gallons. Or approx. 4 dry gallons of soil if not filled to the rim. Dave

For the last 3 years, I've planted my own seedlings which I start outdoors ("winter" sowing). Needless to say, they're not very mature when they go in the ground. Right now there are several varieties, and only one of those varieties has its first true leaves; the others are still at the cotyledon stage. They will be going in the ground over Labor Day weekend (the 28th) regardless of where they are in growth. Maybe they will be 4 inches tall by then. Also for the last three years I've ordered plants online from different vendors, as well as purchasing a few from the local farmers' market. They too, go into the ground around May 28th. All the plants are transplanted over the same weekend. So, we have a mix in levels of maturity at transplant time. By around late July or so, it is virtually impossible to tell by looking at them which plants were transplanted as 4 inch seedlings and which plants were transplanted as 12-18 inch seedlings/plants. The ones that were more immature at transplant set fruit around the same time as the more mature transplants. You wouldn't expect this, but it works out that way. There is some sort of catch-up mechanism going on. Is it because larger plants get quite rootbound, causing them to take longer to settle in when they're transplanted? I honestly don't know, although there has been some research to support that. But, some of the container-started seedlings seem a little rootbound too and have to be untangled from each other. Sometimes I'm too lazy (or run out of time) to pot them up in a larger pot before transplanting. I untangle them and throw them in the ground. There may be a psychological advantage in transplanting more mature plants; they look like progress has been made. And, there's a practical component, too -- they're taller so you're less likely to make a mistake and step on them. Also, they are less likely to be attacked by cutworms or mice if they're taller and thicker. I don't think they shorten the time until harvest, though. At least not by very much. With the exception of cherry varieties and a few other early varieties, they all seem to fruit at about the same time.

Random, You might try a Feed store if there are any nearby. Alfalfa in pellet form about ten bucks for 50 lbs. Add some molasses and water to make a foliar tea. Use the leftovers as a soil additive. See if they have any spoiled or loose alfalfa hay from broken bales that might be had for free. Get your own compost pile started. Check out the local big box store like Home Depot or Lowes (if they are in your area). Lowes often has garden products discounted late Summer to early Fall. I got bags of Epsom Salts and bottles of fish fertilizer for around a buck each last year. Might not help this year but you can get a start on imroving next years garden. Check out this website for some interesting uses of molasses. The author grows a different "product". But these guys are excellent and informed "gardeners". Good luck. http://www.gardenscure.com/420/organics/95401-molasses-sweet-organic-goodness.html

Once the temps start dropping below 50, your chances of getting ripe tomatoes drop dramatically. You can leave them in the ground as long as the weater allows, but be sure to cover them if it drops below 40. If temps are projected to be under 32, your best bet is to harvest them with as much of the vine still attached as possible, and place them in a sunny window to ripen. They will only turn red if there is already a slight blush of color. If they are all completely green still, just make pickled green tomato relish or fried green tomatoes. Next season, try pinching out the suckers on your plant once it gets over 2 feet tall. This will allow the plant to put its energy into fruit production instead of foliage.