Take it to a saw shop and have them set you up. "Finding" a chain isn't rocket science - determine chain pitch, drive link gauge (thickness of the drive link), and the number of drive links you need for your loop to be the right size, and you're off to cut wood! It is probably regular 3/8" pitch chain, which is about as common as it comes. Most XL-12/SXL that I've seen have 3/8" .050 gauge chain, unless someone intentionally set it up with something else. Mine took 59 drive links for a 16" bar with an Oregon ProLite bar, though your mileage may vary.

Good Tip And Good To See Ewalk�s Info! I have been missing his tips and experience. I have been cutting my own foam filters for "small" engines for years (70s). This started when I finally found a foam equivalent to what I was seeing in Briggs mowers and Poulan S25 saws that could take the environment (heat/oil/etc) w/o deteriorating. Is this common to fit your own cut foam filter if it is working as well? Seeing No Filter Kills Me!!

My neighbor recently gave me a red Home Super XL 12. Its a super XL 12 Auto. The UT number is 10045A SN is 503530013. Homelite Textron. It appears the saw hasn't been used a lot. Great compression. The gas line definitely needs to be replaced. One side of the clutch is broken and sticking out when i took off the sprocket cover. I'm betting someone broke it when they were trying to pop off the clutch. I can put the cover back on. Not sure if this will work when I do get the saw running. Comments needed on this problem. My priority question is I can't get any spark on the saw. HOw can i check to see if the coil is any good?? I'm assuming this saw has no points. Would appreciate any help or advice. Glen

Great forum here and a great education! I just picked up a Homelite 150 Automatic model UT 104324, serial number 380600059. It appears to have had little use, is completely old-school as far as safety brake and that sort of stuff, but I put a tank of 50:1 regular gas in it and it fired right up, idled just fine, and cut as well as its not-so-sharp chain could be expected to do. I have a couple of questions as I get to know and trust the saw, and any input is greatly appreciated. 1. Did I injure the engine with a short run of 50:1 fuel, and should the octane be higher than regular fuel? Should I definitely be using a 32:1 mix? 2. How do I know if the automatic oiler is oiling? The oil tank had oil in it, and I topped it off with bar and chain oil: how much oil residue should I see on the bar? 3. Does the safety tip wheel fit onto the roller tip bar on this saw, and can Bill Walcott send me one? 4. Is there a retro-fit toothy-poker plate available to mount on the engine face like more modern saws use? That seems like a good stabilizing/safety device. 5. Is the Oregon 72 the proper chain? The bar protrudes 16 inches past the engine face. Thank you all so much for what you have created here: this has been a great tool! Glen Moore, Seattle WA