We've had posts in the past on this Forum where people have reported Builders recommending against a kitchen exhaust with its ductwork going to the outside. Usually because the builder doesn't feel like installing the ductwork, although it's not difficult. What Clinresga said is exactly on the mark. Please install a dedicated exhaust for your kitchen. And while you're at it, make sure your builder uses an 8" or 10" duct for the kitchen exhaust, which is what most good kitchen exhausts require. I myself am stuck with a 6" duct, and wish I had the luxury, like you have, of installing the ductwork from the getgo. Also, while you're at it, have the builder install the kitchen duct with as few bends, and as short of a run to the outside, as possible. Like I said, you have the luxury to get the ductwork the way you want it, since you're still in the construction stage.

houses14, my Imperial range hood is not an insert, rather an under cabinet ss hood. However, the materials used, and the quality of construction, the fan motors, are the same with minor variances to allow for space restrictions within the smaller size of my hood. Construction wise, it is all that I had hoped for, was easy to install, and has functioned beautifully. Packaging and shipping were excellent. The ss is marine grade. This means that the amount of chromium in the ss will prevent rust from forming in the interior of the hood over time. The electrician informed me that their fan motors and switches appeared to be top quality. The warranty for my hood is 7 years, which is almost unheard of in the industry. Their specifications and installation instructions are right on to allow for optimal operation. For example, my duct is 8" from hood to roof jack and had to have a certain rise in height from the hood before the first angle in the duct work. Baffles remove and reinstall easily for cleaning. It was a joy to call Imperial direct with technical questions at their manufacturing headquarters in California. Someone was always immediately available to answer my questions regarding their vent hoods or recommended installation. My installer was promptly referred to their engineer for technical assistance as I requested that the wiring that would automatically turn on my hood once a certain temperature below the hood was reached be disconnected as I did not want that feature. To me, having that level of service available when answers are needed means a great deal. I found that the folks at headquarters were always honest even if it wasn't the answer I wanted and that they knew their stuff. Their light and fan switches are continuously variable which is rare on vent hoods. This means that they both function like a rheostat with a continuous increase, or decrease, rather than clicking up or down discreet notches, such as level 1 to 4. Also, I liked having the option of installing the switches wherever I wanted remotely, rather than being mounted to the underside of the hood. The hood easily handles removal of odors, steam or grease beneath it's surface. I've found that if the hood is allowed to run for about 10 minutes prior to cooking that it can be operated at a lower level and do a good job. The hood on low is fairly quiet but is noisier than I had anticipated at higher levels with having dual fans and baffles. Also, highest cfm level is 1000 which is a factor. However, I used a different size led bulb than Imperial recommended. I now have a gap around the bulb that needs to be filled with a rubber gasket. Also, the temporary roof jack is too large, and the correct one is waiting to be installed so the jury is still out on the noise issue. Noise level was quite an issue for me, but even if it remains unchanged, I would still buy the same hood given how pleased I am with the overall operation and that I can easily live with the noise that I now have. I'll have to look up the name of the online vendor I used and will add that information tonight.

That pic was taken a few days after the backsplash was done. There is a drawer missing because it had to be about a half inch less wide to accomodate the dishwasher handle. If you want to I have a album of the reno in my profile. We did a lot of research on the Thermador vs GE Monogram vs Wolf vs et al and spoke with a few sales people who were helpful. We also saw a working demo of the Thermador at the store we purchased from. The oven has quirks which apparently all manufacturers ovens have according to our sales person. It puts out BTUs. Boils water very fast with the power burner and the extra low simmer works great. Apparently the newer models ( like this one) have a better design of the simmer function. Extra low means the burner is on for 7 seconds and off for 53 and there is only one click to start the burner. Its barely noticeable. We did have an issue with an error that kept appearing though. If the oven was in use as well as the range top an error would appear to check cooling fan. It pops up on the front led. The oven would shut down and we would have to throw the circuit breaker and wait 5 mins. Very frustrating. Thermador came out and said its a control board issue...hmmm... On a less than year old 7200 dollar range?? Currently the board is on order and they are coming back to reinstall but i think I found the problem. The oven has two cooling fans seated in the rear under the range top. It draws air from the cool back and pushes it out the front. So I started to think. When the oven reaches 300 the cooling fans kick in to cool the sensitive electronics. I get it. I work in IT. Heat kills electronics. In the IT world we have hot aisles and cold aisles in datacenters. Cool air is drawn in from the back and blown out the front as hot air. I noticed we had little to no air coming out of the front of this range. Hmmm...both fans spinning happily but no air coming out. It turns out, the air intakes for both fans are on the back of the unit. Which is pushed up flush to a wall...no air is getting in to cool the electronics. I pulled the range out(all 350 lbs of it) about a 1/4 in h from the wall. No noticeable difference in aestetics. And Voila. Air is now coming out the front as designed and Ive run the oven at 500 for over an hour with no issues. Ran it for 4 hours the other day to simulate a 4 hour roast and no issues to report. I dont know why Thermador doesnt tell its installers to not push the oven flush to the wall. Im still having the control board replaced though. Its under warranty. But I digress. The looks great, cooks great, is easy to clean and impresses the heck out of us. One caveat. Never ever use the self clean for the same reasons I mentioned above. Its goes up over 700 degrees. I just wont chance that kind of heat.

There is a difference in what you do, can do, should do etc. It is best to follow the instructions that come with the stove. It will tell you how far combustible surfaces need to be away from their cooking surfaces. You don't follow that and the cabinets get scorched or brown from the heat, then it falls on you. I do not believe having an exhaust is a requirement in many areas and I have seen plenty of homes with cooktops on islands with no sort of vent. You also can hear from people who have vents and never even use them. In the end make sure you are being safe and protecting your cabinetry and yourselves and go with the situation that gives you a visual you love. Good luck!