"Problem is finding a good paver "setter" who has a bit of creativity & vision." It's a mistake to think that paver installers are the ones that should be responsible for designing the project. Installers are primarily interested in installing the maximum square footage of patio that you will buy, and could probably care less about the layout, other than that they would prefer you provide a good one so they can walk away with pride and end up with a decent project for their portfolio. While they will design it by default, if you don't provide a design, the quality of their ideas will be on on you. If you don't have the design skills (alone or in conjunction with this forum) to design the patio, then you should be consulting with a LANDSCAPE DESIGNER, not a paver installer. Get the design done first, and then find an installer to place it. If you don't have a design (on paper) then you have nothing to bid on. In that case, every contractor you talk to will recommend different things and the pricing will be all over map. You'll have bids you can't compare with other bids because they'll all be for different things. As far as 12' vs. 14' depth, I would consider 12' the absolute minimum usable dimension. A designer would want to know the exact furniture that you're placing on the patio, and the contingencies for when you want to set up for the occasional larger group for special occasions, if that ever happens. Even if it never happens for you, it would be typical of most households. If resale (ever) is a concern, I wouldn't make the patio the absolute smallest a person can "get by" with. One that is of a size usable for a typical "family" with your size house in your type of neighborhood, would be a better choice. Rarely does anyone make a patio that they think is too large. Usually, they're wishing they had a little more space. I suggest figuring out your furniture and all uses and make the patio comfortably large enough to accommodate everything with a little extra room added. There's little point to building something new that you regret soon after you start using it. The difference in cost between barely-big-enough and comfortable is not that great. Buried utilities rarely limit a patio's placement. Water, sewer, gas, electricity are (should be) deep enough to be well below a patio. They might warrant some caution in excavation, but this is nothing to be fretting over. Irrigation lines might be shallow, but still probably won't be a problem. In the worst case scenario, if they are very shallow, they can easily be rerouted. (Some reconfiguration is likely anyway, since you don't want to be watering your patio.) Cable and telephone (if anyone has that any more) tends to the shallowest. These can both be rerouted to a lower placement or different route. Whether you abut or space it away from the structure, in order to make room for foundation beds, make the patio length (its longest dimension) be parallel to the home, not perpendicular to it. (Something said earlier made me think this was possibly going wrong.)

You'd probably need to show the view in each direction. (Stand at center of the yard and take slightly overlapping photos of a 360*view -- without changing camera locations between any pictures.) And you probably need to show an outward bound view of 3/4 of the yard as taken from the patio center. (Again, in slightly overlapping pictures while the photographer does not change locations, but pivots.) And you'l need to show as close up as you can get of the yard from Google Satellite.

If the limelights can grow to their full potential, they should exceed the fence height by a couple of feet. You don't indicate how high the screening needs to be.

You have various resources at your disposal: APLD (Association of Professional Landscape Designers) They have chapters across the country and a "Find a Designer" feature that will provide you names and contacts for your area. Houzz's Find a Professional search feature (top of your home page) referral from local garden center or nursery. Many will have a listing of designers in the area they refer to or they could potentially have a designer on staff get a referral from any neighbors whose garden you admire that may have had professional design attention. Homeowners are usually chuffed to show off their landscapes if you ask nicely and are happy to share names :-) A skilled designer will have a portfolio of finished projects they can share with you so you can establish their experience with your type of project and get an idea of their style. The design process is very interactive so you need to find a designer you feel comfortable with and with whom you can communicate freely. It is difficult to assess a 'fair price' for a design project without any idea of the scope the project or what may be involved. There are also regional variables as well. Some designers will work on an hourly basis and some will quote a flat fee. For a typical residential property, for a master design plan that you can implement yourself, design fees could range from several hundred dollars to a couple of grand, depending on size and complexity.