Lisa, here are some specs I collected when I was narrowing down my choice. These are all 5 ft tubs. Archer-- drop in only bottom at narrowest point= 19 11/16 at widest = same basin length = 45 depth, to base of drain= 15 finished floor to top of tub= 19 width- outside = 32 Madison, 34" drop in or undermount 60 gal bottom at narrowest point= 19 at widest = same basin length = 40 depth, to base of drain= 15 3/4 finished floor to top of tub= 22 width- outside = 34 Madison, 32" drop in or undermount 60 gal bottom at narrowest point= 18 at widest = same basin length = 40 depth, to base of drain= 15 3/4 finished floor to top of tub= 22 width- outside = 32 Madison, 30" drop in or undermount 55 gal bottom at narrowest point=16 at widest = same basin length = 40 depth, to base of drain= 15 3/4 finished floor to top of tub= 22 width- outside = 30 (compared to my current tub) bottom at narrowest point= 17, (above the curve is almost 19) at widest = 22 basin length = 50 depth, to base of drain= 16 finished floor to top of tub= 24 width- outside = 35, almost 36

Hi enduring, Do you rememeber you helped me with my bathtub decision? I am so glad I could offer bathroom vanity photos for your reference. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. First photo is the bathroom full view. The vanity cabinet is custom made using clear alder wood. Cabinet pulls are from Ikea. The counter top is made of quartzite Moonlight. We use same quartzite to trim around the bathtube, shower nitch, and window frame. The quartzite is very pretty, almost maintainence free, super easy to clean. We thought it would be easier to bath small kids, we decided using long shower curtain (from Restoration Hardware) instead of glass shower door. This photo shows the towels storage. I put two big bathsheets, and one roll of paper towel in the top drawer. There are 4 regular bathtowels and 4 face towels in the bottom drawer. The 2 top drawers on the right sides I keep make ups, grooming items, in the bottom drawer I put a bath scale and jewelry cleaner there. This photo shows trash pull out. The top shelf I put hair products there. 2nd shelf I put body wash, mouth wash, body lotion, shampoo bottles, face cleaner..etc. 10 full size bottles in total, and still has room for more. Next to the Toto toilet there is storage room for toilet paper rolls, paper towel and magazine rack. By the toilet (cannot see from the photo) there is an electrical outlet in case we want to add a washelet later. The two wooden boxes next to the mirror are medcine cabinets. The only doors are under the sink. There is plenty room for cleaning products and equipments. The top left drawer is for medicine. The 2nd drawer keeps hair drayer, curling iron, and toiletry bags for trips.The bottom drawer is for shoe polishing kit, shoe pads, emergency medicine bag...etc. . As I mentioned earlier, I am glad we chose full size cabinet. The ample storage keeps everything, so nothing is out. The counter top and tiles are all easy to clean, therefore keeping this bathroom clean does not take much effort at all. This post was edited by azmom on Fri, Jun 28, 13 at 3:49

I'm not sure I understand your question. With a pool cover, you actually lose less water because it's not evaporating. When you say "cover housing", I think you are referring to what I call the "trough" -- the hole that the cover retracts into. There should really not be any pool water in that trough. When it rains, you will use a pump (like a sump pump) that will sit on top of the cover, it will have a water house attached and you can direct the water it pumps off to go wherever you want. We alternate between pumping it into our yard, or pumping it to the deck drains which is tied into the underground gutters and directed to the street. When you retract the cover with any water on it, it may slosh into the trough -- BUT if there is much water, the water gets heavy and the cover will not operate. It's trial and error but once you do it a few times, you will figure it out. You can back up the cover and then start it again and let it dump into the trough. Our trough is covered with Trex (plastic wood-look). Our builder thought it would be better than using concrete coping because the coping would be so heavy to remove when you need to access that trough. But our builder has not built many pool covers, so I'm not sure that was the best advice. I sort of wish we had a different design there. I haven't looked under there in a long time to see if there is much standing water (could be mosquito problem??) but I don't notice mosquitos coming from there, and when we have looked in there, nothing has concerned us. My husband removes the Trex in the spring after the oak trees are finished with all their mess and cleans / vacuums the trough out. We have the crepe myrtle that sheds and so there is debris that will get dumped into that trough throughout the year. Obviously if there are lots of debris, after a storm, we clean that before retracting the cover, but we don't clean it every time by any means. Overall -- I still love having the cover. BIG piece of mind on the safety front with 2 kids now! We can still enjoy our yard in the winter without safety concerns. The pool stays much cleaner. We use less chlorine and water.

The pencil molding should work fine for an edge to your backsplash so long as it is finished on the edge. If not, I think your installer can grind the marble to make a bullnose as needed. Perhaps Bill V. can comment? FYI - most tile sizes are stated to include an average grout joint. So the 4x4 you were told is really 3 3/4 plus a 1/4" grout joint. The diagonal is 5.3" plus grout joint (say 5.55") and, as you've noted, your installer will need to make a lot of cuts to use them. I don't think you should try to cut the inserts smaller. However, a good installer can make this work. If you switch to the 2" x 2" inserts, the diagonal is 2.8" plus grout joint, which should fit just about perfectly in a row of 3" subways. But is this the look you want? The 2" inserts will be more understated versus more drama (with the 4" inserts) and this is a personal choice. A couple of questions arise: what is involved in switching the 4x4 inserts for 2x2 inserts? If these tiles are locally available, then you have lots of options. Second, can you get samples of all your tiles to play with these next few days? With installation scheduled this Friday, your tile must be already in stock locally or en route? Ask your installer (or whoever ordered the tile) to give you a box of the subways and both insert sizes (several of each). Then you can play with layouts of the actual tile. That's so much easier than just looking at other people's designs. Next best is to ask someone on GW to do a mockup for you. You will need to provide links to your subway tile, in addition to the photo of your inserts shown above. Just some random thoughts at this late hour. I know your time is short to make a final decision. HTH. Carolyn