I took over an upstairs bedroom to start seeds indoors. I bought a couple mini-greenhouse assemblies and hang lights from short chains. I can fit 15 trays under the lights. I used 4' shop lights with cool bulbs. I have read that it might be better to use one cool and one warm but I've found the seedlings do just fine with what I have. I leave the lights on 24 x 7. The lights should be about 2" above the seedlings in the tray. For the most part I use the basic cellpack trays that hold 8 6-packs. Keep the lids on the trays until the seedlings sprout. I started using a potting soil from my local hardware store. But then I found smaller bags from Ocean State Big Lots for much less money and the seedlings did just as well. I hadn't even paid attention to if it had fertilizer included in the mix. I did use a liquid root stimulater root fertilizer on the perennials I started. I also did some repotting of mainly perennials into yogurt cups and 3" pots this year. I started perennial seeds in Feb and Mar and planted them out in early May for the most part. I moved one of my greenhouses outside for the hardening off process while other seeds were still inside under the lights. The green seedling trays in this picture were $1 from Christmas Tree Shops and worked great when I only wanted a small amount of a particular plant. I started the seeds over a couple different timeframes. I started the perennials first and got them off to a good start and then started a lot of annuals in early-April. I did a lot of wintersowing this winter as well. I have the space to start indoors and I found the seedlings were much larger than those I WS'd and many are blooming already. It does take much more work though (and $$ for electricity).

I have only grown seeds once, but I see you are in So. cal. I am in the Inland Empire. Because of where you live, I don't think you really need the lights, unless you don't have a well lit place in the house to sprout the seeds. I started seeds last January in my house, no lights or heating pad. I kept them in the kitchen next to my orchids (where I have a double pane window seat window that I use for my orchids). Out of six seeds, two survived so they are now close to 1 foot in height. I moved them outside when they were a couple of months old, and hot enough outside so I disn't have to worry about them. Not all seeds survive, just like all plants. I used a seedling starter "kit" made out od porous material. I don't remember exactly how many sprouted, most but not all. But then I lost several over a long period. The two that survived are doing great. I think I actually used seedling soil, and then when they were big enough to pot, I switched to my normal plumeria soil. Good luck and have fun!

Starting your own plants from seed is one of the most rewarding gardening experiences, it can also save you a small fortune! Also, many species and varieties are simply unavailable unless you "grow-your-own". Choosing seeds is the first step, there are many reputable companies that offer catalogs, besides the fun of browsing through them, mail-order companies are generally good about dealing with any problems you might have. In buying seeds through retail outlets,it's a matter of "buyer beware" ,those 10/$1 seeds may not be such a bargain if they don't grow! Check the package for date,and complete growing instructions,a reputable seed company will also list the Latin name and germination percentage you can expect.If you've acquired seeds from GardenWeb swaps,or other seed sources ,ask for any info the grower can give! You can use most any container,as long as it will hold 3-4 " of growing medium and has drainage holes in the bottom. Flats with liners are nice,but "recycled" containers will do, if you're reusing containers, follow the cleaning instructions under "what is damping-off?". Seeds need a loose,porous,fine-textured medium, one that won't develop a "crust" on the surface that can interfere with emergence . "Potting soil" is an extremely variable product, many retail brands (especially the "bargain" types)will give disappointing results in seed-starting! A "soil-less" mix will make your growing experience much easier. Some common ingredients in soil-less mixes: Vermiculite, a heat-expanded rock, can be used alone or in combination for starting seeds. Milled sphagnum moss (NOT the same as peat moss unless it says"sphagnum peat")has the benefit of inhibiting damp-off fungus, mixed with vermiculite it is frequently used by professionals. Peat moss(sometimes called "Michigan peat" or "peat humus")a heavier,more difficult to wet and more variable product than sphagnum moss ,is common in retail mixes sold for starting seeds,often in combination with perlite or vermiculite,it's often(much!) cheaper than sphagnum-containing mixes but can be more difficult to handle,especially for the beginner. Don't start seeds too early,there's a wide variation in optimal indoor starting times,and unless you have lots of room,starting too early can be stressful,for you and your plants! You may want to consider starting perennials in summer for Fall planting,as many perennials don't bloom the first summer,to save room for annuals and veggies that really need a head start in temperate climates. Sowing seeds: Fill containers,allowing an inch or so from the top for easier watering, and moisten well. Allow excess water to drain, medium should be moist,not soggy. Press the medium down lightly to eliminate air pockets. For plants that don't mind ,or even benefit from transplanting, like tomatoes and lettuce,a number of seeds can be planted in larger containers and transplanted to individual pots when seedlings are large enough to handle. For those that dislike transplanting ,such as melons,or to save yourself time later on,plant 1-3 seeds in individual containers,snip off all but the strongest seedling with scissors. Sow the seeds on the surface,and cover with additional dry medium to the proper depth, a general rule is twice the diameter of the seed.Very tiny seeds,or those requiring light are surface-sown without covering. Mist the medium well and cover with clear plastic , a 13-gallon clear kitchen trash bag fits a standard flat perfectly(I buy the kind with the handles and tie them loosely)Don't put an enclosed container like this in direct sunlight!! A temperature of 65-75 degrees is suitable for the vast majority of common plants,but there are many exceptions,too many to list here! Check at least daily,and remove the plastic when seeds begin to sprout. Place under bright light ASAP! Seedlings need intense light to grow strong and stocky,fluorescent lights are your best bet (see "do I need special lights?") Position so that seedlings are 2-4" from lights, 14-16 hours a day. A timer will help automate the process. If space under lights is limited,you can try rotating them under lights in 12-hour shifts. Keep a close eye on them and adjust heights as needed. Containers enclosed in plastic should not require watering until seeds germinate,once plastic is removed monitor closely,seedlings should never be allowed to dry out completely,and should be kept moist until roots begin to penetrate the medium. Allow the medium to become dry 1/4-1/2" down before watering thereafter,to allow air into the medium and encourage roots to spread. If you've used a soilless mix, begin fertilizing 4-5 days after germination with a water-soluble 15-30-15(or similar ) fertilizer at half the recommended strength,and weekly thereafter. I've had good results with fish emulsion and seaweed extract at recommended rates,for those interested in growing organically. For growing on info see"OK my seeds are growing...?"

They require what is called Cold-Moist Stratification and it is a pretty standard process required for many seeds. Just Google that term. It is used to mimic late fall/very early spring outside planting. To trick the seeds into thinking 2 seasons (1 warm and 1 cold) have passed and now it is warming again and it is time to germinate. 1. they must be moist - that means in wet sand or potting mix or even a damp coffee filter in a zip lock back. 2. Then keep them and the moist medium somewhat warm for 2-4 weeks (think Fall's Indian Summer). In a ziplock bag on top the fridge works well. You might see 1 or 2 goofy seed sprouts but usually none. 3. Then the whole thing goes into the fridge. If you use sand in bag or whatever it all goes into the fridge just as is for a month. 4. Take the bag out and let it come to room temperature and watch for germination to begin. Then transplant germinated seeds to growing medium. Dave Seed Stratification