So as far as the comments about maples being unable to grow/thrive in this environment, well, I'm not sure true; there are many around...appreciate all of the comments but sort of getting conflicting advice. Do I spray or not? [Systemic] or spray? It sounds as if the majority believes that the tree should be saved. 1. You think you are getting conflicting advice because we can't tell what is wrong with your tree yet. 2. Chemicals may be a waste of money until it is identified what is wrong with your tree. 3. As for the statement maples being unable to grow/thrive in this environment , No. We are talking about the environment immediately surrounding the tree - the horrible lawn. It is likely the tree is getting insufficient water and gases. 3a. This means that the tree may be attacked because it cannot get sufficient water and gases in its roots. 3b. This means fix this and you may not need to spray. 3c. However a request was made for you to check for wilt. You have not responded to that. 3d. This means that it is unknown whether your tree has a bad pathogen. Until you check for this everything else is just speculation 3d(1) If you have it, the tree is done. 3d(2) If you do not, the immediate problem is that horrible lawn that is stressing the tree. Until you get that under control, you likely are going to have issues with that tree. 3d(3) From here you need to not only aerate numerous times to alleviate compaction but likely need to add amendment as well. Until you get that under control, you likely are going to have issues with that tree. Dan

The black spots look like some kind of fungus. This is why we don't spray the leaves with water (Unless we have to) and why we spray during the dormant season. You may be able to keep this from spreading by spraying two tablespoons of wettable sulfur per gallon of water. Spray the whole tree and all the leaves top and bottom. In the future spray with Bordeaux fungicide once when they are dormant and once just before bud break. Molds and Fungus grow on the tree during the dormant season. They grow on the buds that become leaves too. Spraying Bordeaux fungicide twice as directed will kill the molds and fungus that cause leaves to turn black and die off. It also kills the stuff that causes Peach Leaf Curl. A dormant oil spray can kill/suffocate all the nasty insect eggs that are waiting to hatch on your trees too. The white stuff looks like Woolly Apple Aphid's. Do a google image search to get a good look see to make sure. Here's a link you may find useful... http://www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef219.asp If you have major infestations during the summer and want something totally safe to spray you can always use 2-4 Tablespoons of Dr. Bronner Peppermint Castile Soap per gallon of water. It can also be used as a wetting agent for insecticides. Just add one Tablespoon per gallon to your insecticide and shake well. In fact I bet this would kill your Woolly Aphids if you mixed it at 3-4 Tablespoons per gallon of water and sprayed it on them.

Buds, probably either pollen cone buds or seed cone buds (maybe both). More worrying for me is the rather yellowish colour of the foliage - it should be rich dark green, and more obviously 'frosted' white on the undersides. Possibly a deficiency of some sort. The needles also look a bit long and slender, I'm not convinced this is a true P. omorika, might be another species or a hybrid. Post pics of the cones in the summer! Resin

I am an entomologist in Boca Raton, FL. Although I really work with ants, I have seen Eugenia with these insects all over Broward and Palm Beach counties, and ants feed on the honeydew produced by these scale insects. The Eugenia plants look like they were hit by a flame-thrower. As I said, the scales produce honeydew which they excrete and then sooty mold (black) grows on the honeydew. I asked my friend who works with scale insects about this. He says that this is the work of the Florida Wax Scale, Ceroplastes (he does not know which species). The family is Coccidae. I can email photos if anyone wants to see them. Maybe I will post them on my website. Many people have asked me what they should do about this. I have seen Eugenia dying all over and, really, if you want to spend time fighting this, you will probably have to keep spraying the plants with a systemic insecticide like Merit continually, and even then, it might be an uphill battle all the way. Usually in a case like this with a well-established insect pest, the best thing to do is to plant resistant varieties, or some other ornamental plant. I don't know if there is a Eugenia variety that is resistant to this wax scale, maybe someone on this forum knows. John Warner, PhD qualified entomologist University of Florida Fort Lauderdale Research and Education Center, Ant Lab 3205 College Avenue Fort Lauderdale, FL 33314 USA