Thanks David for the suggestion. The light looks like it will fit, but we haven't been able to find housing that will fit our dimensions. Do you have any suggestions on this? Thanks so much on this.

air tight trim is a joke in my opinion.I base this on having tested for air leakage with a blower door while sealing these lights & trims. the foam rubber gasket does little to stop the air leakage from exiting the trim. the best way I've found is to use the hardcast 1402 mastic tape to seal housing to the sheetrock. similar to how supply box is sealed in pic of previous posting. tape goes into edge of housing and overlaps to sheetrock. allow 1'2" overlap as trim will cover the tape. this with the ICAT recessed light will stop as much of the air leakage as possible. there will still be a small amount of leakage, but not enough to be of concern. note this when you look at the recessed lights again: Halo's insulation contact air tight lights have two things that identify them. no holes in housing and a orange sticker inside the can that says it is air tight. orange sticker, not red. the red sticker says air tight when used with the following trim kits. deceptive lableling IMO. reading the small print inside IC cans the trim kits include, insert/baffle to fit inside the can to address holes in housing (@$14 each) and air tight trim kit, not sure of cost. as the insert/baffle would be needed at every recessed light, buying ICAT makes better economical sense. installing the baffles is a pita. so add labor for that to cost. buy ICAT, use mastic tape in place of 'air tight' trim. if you are putting IC cans outside under porches patio, unconditioned space this is what happens. as the install of recessed lights is ongoing, the electrician mixes up the boxes. some inside are ICAT, some IC. same outside. make it easy on everyone and buy all ICAT. wasps like IC, but not so much ICAT, less air movement. the cost per contractor case between the two is minimal when you compare to retrofitting each IC to air tight. best of luck.

@montmurf correct, I meant the very thin wafer type with remote junction box, no real can whatsoever. I checked with a local licensed electrician and he said it was totally fine even without the mounting plate, and we asked him to help us do the rewiring. He did a great job! I simply cut holes in the new drop ceiling tile with an adjustable hole saw and popped in the lights connecting them to the junction box (simple screw on connection). Our local electrical code does not require the remote j-boxes to be mounted but some do, so make sure you check yours out before proceeding. Lithonia lighting told me the mounting plates are there to just provide extra support if the tiles you have aren't especially strong and also to provide a place to mount the remote j-box; they are not required in all applications, depending on the local electrical code. I don't think it hurts to do it either way. Using the mounting plates would give you extra peace of mind though, especially if your tiles are flimsy. I used Lumawash tiles from Armstrong and they have been great. Been running the wafer lights for about 2 months now, no issues thus far, but I'll pop back in with a summer update too.

Thanks again. The machined metal baffles are about 1.25" thick and 2.75" inside diameter nearest the socket. From the outside edge of the socket to the bottom of the baffle is about 4.5 inches. The baffles are held by small metal clips that squeeze against the inside bottom of the "trim" seen in the photos. The inside diameter of that trim is about 4.25" and the outside diameter about 4.75". The inside is not a straight "can" but is curved up to the socket. There are no places to hang the spring clips shown in most of the retrofit kits.