minimum care flowering shrubs
CJ Dumas
2 years ago
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container plant dosage Bayer 2In1 Systemic Rose & Flower Care
Comments (4)I think the Bonide is a powder and this is granules. I have plants on my fire escape and on the roof that I will have to take in I believe at the end of October. I have some 2 year old Ficus bengalensis and F. religiosa that I grew from seed and now are getting a thick trunk, also have some orchids in 6" pots, Laelia and Schomburgkia and Ansellia. And some Mango saplings I grew from seed and some small Coccoloba uvifera I have grown from seed (4 or 5" pots now). Actually something chews and cuts the coccoloba leaves. and some cacti. I know Imidclorprid is an insecticide so it is not effective on mites (not many plants get mites - only rarely and a couple of them). I will spray and soak also with Neem oil. I have Habanero peppers I want to overwinter but no systemic in those. I will just turn them into bonsais (bonchi) cut them really small and soak them in water neem oil and dish soap and then rinse and repot. But I want to minimize taking insects in. I do not like to spray indoors. The fertilizer I believe is 6-9-6 and the dosage would not be so much different than Osmocote. Being slow release I wonder if the risk of burn is minimal. Maybe i will get some brown leaf tips but maybe not... stefano...See MoreCare for container grown Meyer Lemon Shrub
Comments (9)When you say lemons "fruit throughout the year" that's not exactly accurate, because that implies they are in various stages of ripening, like tomatoes. Maybe that happens for people in the north, growing them like houseplants??? But in citrus country, Meyer lemons can be picked starting around January, and will hang on the tree until about June/July. But the quality of January is very different from July, they can be pithy and even rotten. They will bloom in late winter/early spring, which means they can have blooms and ripe fruit on the tree at the same time, unlike a lot of fruit trees. It also means they can have little green fruit and almost-too-ripe fruit at the same time. And occasionally they can bloom again in summer, if stressed. Mine has only done that once, when I repotted it. For feeding, they make "citrus food", also Ironite for when the leaves are yellowing. Don't overdo it though, that's worse than not fertilizing! Read the label, I think it's like a tablespoon for a large pot. As for winter protection, I'm not familiar with your weather in Texas, but my Meyer Lemon (also in a pot) has happily stayed outside year-round for 9 years now. If it goes below freezing for more than a couple of hours, I put a sheet over it (not plastic--that won't do much) and remove it when it gets above 32. When we have real cold snaps (i.e. talk on the news about citrus farmers losing crops, 20 degrees, etc.), then in addition to the sheet over, I drape old-fashioned christmas lights around my delicate trees, under the sheets. They generate enough heat to keep them above freezing inside. The only plants I ever bring inside when cold are my gardenias. Carla in Sac...See Morecontainer plant dosage Bayer 2In1 Systemic Rose & Flower Care
Comments (6)If you think you have a problem that requires a systemic insecticide, better to buy a product with label instructions for applying it....like the Bonide you mention. Is your goal insect control (which one), fertilizer? We don't know what you wish to accomplish. The 2 in 1 product shown on their website is imidacloprid and granular fertilizer, Bayer states it is not for use in containers. A granular type fertlizer would not be the same as the time release osmocote pellets that release small amounts of product over weeks. I use a water soluable fertilizer product for container plants, rarely mixing to the full strength of label directions, I haven't found it necessary. Here is a link that might be useful: Bayer - questions/answers/product label...See Moreflowering bushes care
Comments (7)"One seems as if the stems are half dead" Unstressed shrubs would not have stems that appear half dead. On a healthy shrub, the previously damaged areas would be sealed off and the dead area would be obviously differentiated from the normal, healthy tissue. Like probably most people on here, I have very little experience with how fast shrubs recover from stress after periods like last year. I am only relaying the information that I have heard from a number of people in the horticultural field who I hear advising against fertilizing trees and shrubs even now. Many arborists are predicting losses through at least next year that will mainly be due to the stress received from last year. With last year's freeze and the prolonged drought spanning most of last year, it would be a surprise if the shrubs weren't stressed. If you disagree with this, that's up to you, but the advise I've heard from nursery owners and educators makes sense to me. Fertilizer is usually recommended for trees or shrubs if 1.) a soil test indicates a nutrient deficiency or 2.) the tree or shrub is healthy and growth rates in excess of normal growth rates are desired for some reason. I don't see either of these being the case in this situation. If I wanted to give these shrubs a boost, I'd add some compost and forget about the fertilizer. P.S. ..... The Azalea Society of America states: In general, azaleas in the landscape require little or no fertilizer. Having humus (decomposed organic matter) in the soil and maintaining an organic mulch around azaleas are more important than applying chemical fertilizers, and much safer. Decomposition of the mulch normally provides the nutrients needed for the good health of the azaleas. Applying chemical fertilizers without knowledge of any deficiencies in your soil may not help much, and may actually harm your azaleas. As a very general rule, more azaleas are killed by kindness than by neglect....See MoreCJ Dumas
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoCJ Dumas
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
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