White Oak Kitchen Cabinets - Bona NaturalSeal? Milesi Natural 2k?
Ryan Danielson
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Ryan Danielson
2 years agoRyan Danielson
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Finishing White Oak Floors
Comments (39)Floors were finished with Minwax Weathered Oak Stain, one coat of Bona Classic Seal, and one coat of Bona Traffic. Another coat of Traffic will be applied after cabinets and trim installation. The floors did not turn out the way I expected, but I'm still very pleased with the final outcome. I would have preferred a less "painted" look, and more natural with just a tint of brown. But, I couldn't find any stains that provided this look. Someone mentioned that tinting the sealer might achieve the look I wanted, but my installer had not tinted before, and I didn't want him trying on my floors for his first time. It was difficult to capture accurate photos. All the ones I took on an iphone were very inaccurate. The ones below were taken with a DSLR and capture the true look from various angles. In real life, the floors are slightly darker than the photos. Perhaps this will help someone in the same situation as me. In hindsight, I should have sample stained and sealed a much larger area (maybe 3' x 3') with a couple of final choices to get a more accurate representation....See MoreHelp- Natural or brown tone finish on white oak floor using MINWAX
Comments (3)LIve wire oak mentions many things...the biggest red flag is the 'professional' (ahem...) using a low-grade DIY product such as Minwax. Minwax stains are OIL based. They take time to cure (72 hours anyone?) before a product such as Loba can be applied (water based product out of Germany). And just like oil and water NOT mixing, Loba and Minwax do NOT mix. Loba has their own line of water based stains. They are expensive, but beautiful. A SOLVENT (aka oil based) based finish (like Minwax) turns ORANGE. Not just 'yellow' but ORANGE!!!!! So...you can kick Minwax to the curb IMMEDIATELY!!! Like YESTERDAY! Water based polyurethanes (such as Loba 2K Supra AT; Loba WS 2K Supra; Bona Traffic HD; Bona Traffic; etc) do NOT TURN YELLOW! They are referred to as "clear coats" by many. White Oak NEEDS a sealant (Loba Easyprime = Loba sealant) when working with water based polyurethane. If you do NOT use the sealant (because you are using a WATER BASED polyurethane) then you will find the White Oak tannins (the stuff that gives wood its colour) will move to the surface of the wood and sit there = turn yellowish over time. Whew! So first things first: find ANOTHER refinisher. Water based stains are a B!tch to work with if you DO NOT have the training. And NO, you do NOT WANT to be the 'project' they floor dude uses to learn the product. Water based polyurethanes are ANOTHER issue all together. As easy as Loba is to work with....it still takes PLENTY of practice to 'figure out'. Especially if you are an 'oil guy' for 20+ years. Please find the nearest professional: www.nwfa.org An NWFA Certified Flooring Sander/Refinisher is going to charge $5+ per square foot to work with the high end stuff. But it is TOTALLY worth it. And that $5/sf is JUST the staining/finishing. The TOTAL cost for installation is going to add a few more $$ per square foot for the labour to cut/install the wood floor itself....See MoreUnfinished white oak- natural or stain?
Comments (37)Water popping dry time - depending on the work environment. It can take anywhere from 1 hour to overnight. Best way to be sure is to use a moisture meter. Take a reference reading prior to water popping to indicate dry point. Water pop and allow to dry. Take a reading to see if, the dry point has returned to the original reading. If, it does, you know it is dry. Yes, water popping will allow the stain to penetrate deeper, resulting in a darker and richer color. Eliminating the need for a second coat, which can be detrimental to coating. Staining can take anywhere from 6 to over 72 hours to dry. You will need to check with the manufacturer for their recommendations for proper dry time and conditions. Darker pigments will take longer to dry compare to naturals. If, you mix colors allow the maximum time required. Dry time for Supra will depend on the square footage and how many hours in the day you are willing to work. The recommended dry time for Supra is 4-6 hours under good conditions. Humidity and low temperature will extend dry time. If, you have a lot of square footage example: 1000 square feet. I would allow overnight to dry. 1000 square feet coating will increase the indoor humidity, which will extend dry time. Multiple coats in 1 day is not advised. Compared to a 200 square feet coating where the humidity doesn't significantly increase. The dry time is more truer to what is suggested by mfg. Multiple coats is possible in one day. Your flooring contractor should know all this. If, not run for the hills....See MoreFinishing White Oak Floors So They Stay Natural and Don't Yellow
Comments (18)@lv2plyglfgal No...I have not tried those products..just the Bona Naturalle. My goal wasn't to get totally unchanged raw look, but to find a product that gave a slightly fumed look like my inspo picture below, that could also be protected by poly if necessary, and find a protective coating that did not alter the colors. The Pallman's white came close, as you can see from picture above, but it looked too pink on larger sample. Apparently, certain character grades of white oak can include a small percentage of red planks. I did like the sample I have of a board with a bit of reactive stain and poly, but it did have a tint of yellow from the Bona. I started this process months ago and totally went down the rabbit hole trying to figure out how to achieve this look below without spending a zillion dollars, Lol. We even literally fumed some planks ourselves. Rubio's Monocoat smoke was nearly perfect in appearance, but it just has too many reported issues and no poly coatings that the company "recognizes" as adhering. The Ciranova Unico did the same thing with better protection options,etc.. I'm also testing options for my cabinets, stains, waxes, etc.. There is a woman who wants what you want...here is a link to her blog keeping white oak(if that is allowed here.) When you start testing, I'd love to see your results; we can narrow things down without each buying everything..LOL...my DH would rather me spend 100s now to help decide rather than thousands later if I hate what we did. But the biggest issue I have had is replicating results on larger samples...(Oh, and PS, apparently the Fortico is much easier to apply that Bona. You do not need a Phd in flooring...)...See MoreRyan Danielson
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